DIY - Install your own Drop Springs (C5 Camaro)

[Ivan @ Southwest Speed]

Originally Posted by nicave13@gmail.com

Hey Ivan, doing research on getting lowering springs and of course gonna install myself. Doing so I ran across this thread. Looks pretty easy.

Quick question, are there any good quality lowering springs giving about a 1.5 drop front 1" drop rear that don't make ride any harsher? I'm aware most lowering springs are for performance driving, what about comfort? I see most offer progressive rate coils, great idea, just wondering which will be smoothest! Thanks Ivan!

The smoothest by far are the Pfadt and the SLP. While they give you the shortest drops, they are very comfortable and nice.

If you want to dump that thing on the ground, LG or B&G. We can help you with the Pfadt, SLP or LG's.

Originally Posted by edog

What's good Earnest! Great to see you here sir

Thanks guys!
Ivan

[nicave13@gmail.com]

Ivan, looks like some PFADT's might be in my future. I'm always price conscious and that rules out SLP. I really like the drop the LG's had in your build, but worry about the ride for sure.

Check out my pic's below, for factory isn't mine sitting awfully low? I've seen lowered car's on here that seem higher. I do have over 100lb of stereo, but that shouldn't lower front? My rear was so low it was out of alignment.

Would lowering springs drop more on my car since it's already low? Thanks as always for the great advice.

See peddars lowered silver car also an SS, for reference

[Ivan @ Southwest Speed]

I think that you'd see no more than a 1" drop in your case. The ride quality will definitely improve as well.

Food for thought is that LG just released the new adjustable coilovers. They are at a pretty awesome pricepoint and are fully adjustable so not only can you set the ride hieght, but the dampening factor that they have will allow you to really dial in the ride.

Something I've been thinking about doing for sure since, like you, I'd like a smoother ride.

There always seems to be a compromise when it comes to doing just about anything on a car. Looks great but might ride rougher. Some folks are cool with it and it doesn't really even make much a difference.

Others might though. The Pfadts are what you should most likely look into.

Ivan

[Alfdog]

Is it necessary to cut the bump stops when lowering the car?

[nikos30]

Originally Posted by Alfdog

Is it necessary to cut the bump stops when lowering the car?

maybe that is why my springs pop out every time I lift the car? I did not do this...

[Quickstir]

Originally Posted by Alfdog

Is it necessary to cut the bump stops when lowering the car?

I did cut them since that was what the instructions said. At least for the PFADT springs

[OmniCamaro]

Danny5 (from the other drop spring install DIY) is correct on the spring tension. Using an impact gun I spun the top nut off the front and the parts did pop off but only 2-5 inches. I did this in the grass with the bottom of the strut butted up against a wall and all body parts behind the business end of the spring tension.

A question: How the hell can you torque that top nut holding the spring on the strut?! Unless there's a box end torque wrench I don't see it happening. I got it on there good with my impact gun but I'd hate to have it too tight or not tight enough. Has anyone taken a measurement on how far the shaft should be above that nut (post drop spring install)? That would be an awesome bit of info to have in this thread.

Double posted in both drop spring DIY's for continuity.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[automanbad]

Originally Posted by Ivan @ Southwest Speed

Based on the fact that so many people get these lowering springs and install them on their own, we thought it might be helpful to add to some of the DIY Threads already out on the Drop Springs.

Using the newest and most aggressive Drop Spring on the Market, the LG Motorsports G5 Super Springs, we decided to install a set on one of the shop cars so that you could see just how easy it is to do and what 2.5/3 hours of your time can yield!

The LG Kit says it's a 1.5" Drop Kit, but as we measured, it's closer to 1.75" all the way around. A really great kit that will "increase grip and handling due to the progressive rate springs that have a higher rate than your stock units to give you a lowered ride height, firmer sport ride while mantaing a conformtable highway feel."

First and foremost, safety is paramount! If at any time you feel you are in an unsafe situation, take the time to re-evaluate your postition and identify needs and precautions that you should take to ensure maximun safety.

• Always use safety equipment for their intended purposes
• Always use more than enough Jackstands and Safety Stops
• Always Set the EBrake when on an incline
• Always remove power from the SRS System when working on your car
• Always have fun working on your own car and saving $99.50/hr!!

With that said, I can add that gathering the correct tools BEFORE starting will almost always save you more time than any DIY Thread or Instructions from the manufacturer! Nothing sucks more than having to get out from under your car, walking over to the cart or box and trying to find the correct size tool with dirty hands.

What we used to make it happen:

• Floor Jack & Stands
• 1/2" Socket Driver
• 3/8" Socket Driver
• 6" Extension for the 3/8" Driver
• 10mm Socket
• 15mm Socket
• 18mm (1/2" Drive)
• 21mm (1/2" Drive)
• 24mm (1/2" Drive)
• 15mm Box (or Open Ended) Wrench
• 21mm Box (or Open Ended) Wrench
• 24mm Box (or Open Ended) Wrench
• 5mm Allen Wrench
• T40 Torx
• T50 Torx
• Hacksaw or Knife to cut foam/rubber Bump Stops
• Flat Blade Screwdriver -preferably a 10" but any will work
  
• Optional - Spring Compressor (Autozone/Checker rents them for $50 Deposit)
• Optional - Air Ratchet and equivelent Sockets to save time
• Optional - 15mm/18mm/21mm/24mm Gear Wrenches to save time

The LG G5 Super Springs install just like many of the other Springs that are on the market. A basic Remove and Replace is all that is needed followed up by an alignment.

Credit to Hotchkiss for posting up a great read with excellent info for aftermarket alignments. We've had a couple cars aligned after Springs with their specs and it DID make a huge difference (in my opinion) in driving the car.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=71994

Getting down to it, the first thing you're going to want to do after gathering your tools is to get the car up in the air. Using your Floor Jack and Stands (or Bendpak if you are in that category) lift the car safely in a manner that allows you access to take the wheels off the car and fully support the vehicle while leaving the suspension fully lowered or hanging.

Meaning, don't lift the vehicle up by the A Arms or anything that is not solid frame!

For more on lifting your Camaro, check this out:
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...lifting+points

Once we're safely in the air, get the wheels off and let's start with the Rear of the Car's Springs.

First thing we'll do is remove the Sway Bar End Link from the Lower Control arm so that you'll be able to lower the Arm down further to take the Strut/Spring Assembly out.

To do this, use the 5mm Allen to hold the ball stud from the End Link secure and remove the 15mm nut holding it on. Once the nut is removed, pull the stud out from the arm and move it away.

After this, move to the bottom of the Arm and find the 21mm Bolt that holds in the bottom of the Strut Assembly. Remove it using the 21mm Socket and the 21mm wrench on the other side as to keep the nut from spinning.

Closer to the end of the arm, you will see a pair of 18mm's. This bolt and nut hold the rear spindle to the lower arm. Remove it just like you did the Strut Assembly bolt and nut.

TIP: Sometimes the bolt doesn't want to come straight out. This is where taking the Flathead Screwdriver comes into play. By placing it between the spindle hub and arm you can gently wiggle the lower part of the spindle and the bolt will come out without force. Great when reinstalling the bolt as well!! The Lower arm should now be completely free to hang and be moved in a downward fashion.

Next, using your 15mm socket and driver, loosen and remove THREE of the FOUR 15mm bolts holding the top plate of the Strut Assemble to the frame of the car.

TIP: Leave the last of the bolts installed but hand tight so that the entire Strut Assembly doesn't fall out. Once you've loosened it good, hold the Strut Assembly and remove the final 15mm bolt. The Assembly wieghs about 13lbs and isn't heavy. It just helps to support it and know it's coming out before that last bolt comes out and surprises you.

Once you have the (4) 15mm bolts out, the entire Rear Strut Assembly should be able to be completely removed from the vehicle.

Optional at this point, a Spring Compressor can be used to compress the Spring on the Strut Assembly as to remove the force with which the Strut is under. If you choose to use a Spring Compressor, follow the directions of that particular Compressor as there are several differnt styles.

If you decide not to use one, be warned that there is some force with which the Strut Assembly is under. Removing the Upper Spring nut will allow the spring to fully extend and may launch some of the pieces of the upper assembly a good 5/7 feet. There is not actually a lot of tension on the assembly so if you decide to not use a compressor, its fine - just make sure that the Strut isn't pointed at anything valuable or living. Using Safety Glasses might actually be smart here just in case!

With that said...safely compress (or dont) the Spring on the Strut assembly. Once done, go ahead and remove the 18mm nut on the top of the assembly using a T40 Torx to keep the actual Shock Rod from spinning and the 18mm Wrench.

Take note of the items and parts that come off and in what order. I've included a picture just in case you forget or don't get a chance since everything "popped" off so fast.

Reinstall the new Spring in the same way the old OEM came off and reinstall using the reverse steps outlined above. Torque to manufacturers specs.

The other side rear Strut Assembly is done in the same manner.

Moving to the front of the vehicle, the first thing we'll do is remove the upper Sway Bar end link using a 15mm. Once the nut is removed, pull it out and away from the assembly for clearance.

There is an ABS Line that goes to the wheel and it's held in with a Rubber Grommet that is simply pushed into a tab. Pull it out so that it's clear from the work.

On the opposite side of the Strut Assembly, there is a Brake Line that is held in by a 10mm bolt. Remove and clear.

Two Bolts on the bottom of the Strut and the Single nut on the Top of the Strut under the hood hold the entire Strut Assembly to the car at this point.

Remove the 2 bottom 24mm bolts and nuts from the Lower Strut Assembly. These are a little tough so you might need to put a little more effort into it than normal.

Last step in removing the Assembly from the car is to lift the hood, unscrew the small black Strut cover cap and a 24mm nut is revealed. All the weight of the Strut Asembly is being held by this so making sure that you have a hand on it when taking it off, or having an assistant hold it while you do it makes it a little safer.

TIP: There is a second 24mm nut under the first one that you just removed. Don't try and take it off at this point. It is what holds the Spring's compression and if removed may cause harm to you or your vehicle.

At this point, the Front Strut assembly has fallen out on it's own or perhaps it's still "up in the cavern." Simply give it a jingle if so, and it will come right out.

Removing the OEM Coil Spring is the same for the front as the rear. Just remember to use caution.

Reassembly is the reverse once again.

Once you have repeated the sequence for the other sides, go back and double check all your bolts and nuts to make sure that they are present and installed to the correct specifications.

Reinstall your wheels, lower your car, torque wheel lug nuts to specifications.

Schedule yourself an alignment so that you don't end up trashing your tires within a few thousand miles and start carving corners like it's 1999!

Enjoy and hope that this provided some sort of insight as to how to accomplish this task on your own. It's not nearly as hard on the 5th Gen Camaro as ANY other Camaro we've done and as far as time, it shouldn't take more than 3 hours of your time even if you're the most basic turner of wrenches.

Good Luck!!!
Ivan @ Southwest Speed

Thanks for the post, really good info