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Old 08-16-2018, 07:44 AM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by christianchevell View Post
I did do the bypass with zero gauge wire around the terminal post because of the change in gauge, I still get a problem when its over 90 and it set a record this last month hottest ever here and only a couple times stop and go starting after running hot it dragged..solution ...wait for it to cool down some..I want to vent the hood more but the heat from the headers is way hot down there, I too wish to wrap my headers some day.

This is not a new problem to headers, old chevys would eat starters in a year or so form heat and just shoot them into freezing up but hey they were a lot cheaper starters and engine bays were a lot bigger...….
Did you also add a second ground?
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Old 08-16-2018, 08:25 AM   #100
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Another possible cause is too much timing when engine is cranking. Theirs a table in the ECM which sets the cranking timing at a given temperature. Some tuners advance this table when performance camshafts are installed which can make it hard to start on a hot days and makes it harder on the battery/cables/starter.
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Old 08-16-2018, 10:30 AM   #101
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Good read. Good info.
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Old 08-16-2018, 11:53 AM   #102
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dead cell battery
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Old 08-16-2018, 12:28 PM   #103
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dead cell battery
Nope. If you read this thread and others on this topic you'll see guys have tried new and bigger batteries as well as starters only to still have the same problem. The problem is starter heat soak caused by the proximity of the starter to the pass side LT header.
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Old 08-16-2018, 01:03 PM   #104
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Theres a ground on the passenger side head at the front, make sure its beneath both bolts. That fixed my issues.
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Old 08-16-2018, 03:09 PM   #105
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Originally Posted by BandRcAMARO View Post
Theres a ground on the passenger side head at the front, make sure its beneath both bolts. That fixed my issues.
Ditto on this!!!!

Tinkering with the car i did not cinch the bolt down tight enough for full contact it was a funky why cant the car start for a few hours LOL


With the addition of my single turbo the car no longer has a large longtube header coming down the passenger side. I have since noticed the car starts up stronger all the time. So also Ditto on heat being the culprit for sloppy turn overs in hot conditions.
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Old 11-29-2018, 07:37 PM   #106
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Had this happen to me right after I got my engine replaced. It was the crank sensor as quoted by the dealer. Ironically, it was one of the parts that got replaced as part of the new engine. It failed to re-learn the new engine which resulted in an unusually long crank or no crank at all if the engine was warm. When it was a long crank, the car would start with some sort of **clang** sound. On a cold start, it cranked fine the first couple times with no issues. After that, it would do the long crank thing again.
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Old 12-06-2018, 03:04 PM   #107
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I added a second engine ground. Car starts and performs better. RPM at idle is slightly higher
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Old 01-10-2019, 09:16 PM   #108
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UPDATE: I can recommend this starter; it stopped my hot start problem!!!!
Car starts like stock sound its just awesome to hear it not falter…

The deal; I replaced stock starter with another and wrapped it, always figured it most likely held heat in also and it did..... Now, I have a higher torque starter about the same size as the stock mini starter...… It definitely cranks stronger and starts faster and does not throw codes, tested on hot and cold so far for a while.

The deal its about the price of stock starter, you have to clock the powermaster to the left to avoid a sensor on the left side of the engine with a torx bit, you have to loose the stock heat shield which sucks anyway, but also the plastic surround of the stock starter which plugs a space in the bell housing but its not that big and allows checking the shimming of the starter with a simple paper clip even in the detailed directions.


I had to have the ignition wires end which terminal plugs in to the starter changed to a round eyelet to connect and bend the end of the battery cable to the starter straight rather than L shaped, but that's it.... shimmed right, ( it comes with shims both to advance the mounting block if needed and to lower it if needed and new bolts, and I think its the Bees Knees...…….), It kicks arse over my old stock starters. I do know when the headers cooled down to touch the damn blanket on my stock starter was still hot and did help trap heat as I suspected.


And so there you go, Good Luck! I also occasionally got slow starts not hot, and cold ….. now its about having the torque to help out with my tougher springs in the engine and the increased cubes along with the header heat; and not have to be embarrassed to have to let it cool down or unplug the battery to clear the codes thrown after limping home in a semi limp mode if I absolutely had to go.
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Old 01-11-2019, 07:52 AM   #109
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The only time my car has a weird start, or hard start, is when temps are below freezing. Added the second ground and made sure the passenger side ground contacted with the passenger side head and it's been solid ever since.

I even run a smaller battery than stock lol it's not heat soak
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Old 01-12-2019, 08:13 AM   #110
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Its called heat soak because its been know through the century as that, and all my stickers are in a bag waiting for a better rolling tool box. Heat soak is not a fact that can be debated, of course my engine generates more resistance than yours as mine is built and larger. Its good your grounds seem to help you for now, if you were cammed with stiffer springs you would experience more resistance to starting, if stroked also more. This is not my first rodeo, and my car is a daily driver.
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Old 01-13-2019, 08:00 AM   #111
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And basically I am on here posting this for those that had problems on this forum before like me, I want them to know the car sounds totally more like it has balls when it starts now compared to lack of confidence before. Increased demands require increased $$$$ and I have been busy paying things down and will for about three more years of heavy repayments due to daughters education causing a Money pit that suck me and the wife for about $3600 a month paying back our debts with three cars included to be able to get debt free except for paying her student loans after that.

Its called bankruptcy due to a unforgiving whore named Sallie Mae who used to be gov't loans, daughter is finally slowly finishing her neuroscience degree while teaching music and some other job also...she had to take a break which after deferrals and forebearances we paid for was not enough...… SO yes I will have money to built it more I just have to wait, and paying back her loans easy compared to our debt plus hers piled on..... Blessing sometimes come in strange was, this forced us to adapt to no credit which in reality sucks major and we don't plan on using it much ever again. Life go figure...….


SO if you guys want a built engine I recommend this, I remember the "good Old Days" or huge engine bays and headers not close to the starter which was like 30lbs and a bitch to have to change out so often from heat stroke /abuse on my fleet of old Chevy's but they cost like 30$ rebuilt....this makes it sound strong starting even hot and sound is totally different compared to weak stock.....its got its balls back.
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Old 04-10-2019, 07:48 PM   #112
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What length of wire and type of connectors are needed for the positive post bypass?
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