Motor mount DIY HELP!!!! - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Camarobychance · 02-10-2021, 12:12 PM

Attempting to install the bmr motor mounts myself and It was going perfect until now I can seem to get the actual mount and bracket out of the engine compartment. All 4 bolts are off of the bracket and both nuts are off of the mount itself I just can’t seem to wiggle it out of there. I have the engine jacked up using a block of wood and I’m pretty sure I have it maxed out. Am I missing something? What do I do?

CamaroCracka · 02-10-2021, 12:34 PM

You could try lifting from one side or the other to gain more clearance. You are maxed on lifting the engine when the bellhousing on the trans gets close to the trans tunnel.

I have the Prothane mounts and I don't remember it being that difficult, but I probably had headers at that time.

Sometimes lowering a jack a hair can provide more room. I did mine entirely from under the car.

Tarendor · 02-10-2021, 12:51 PM

Did you separate the mount first from the bracket?

fz4k98 · 02-10-2021, 03:03 PM

I had to loosen and remove all bolts and nuts from mount and bracket, jack up engine a little for clearance. Then pull the bracket away from the engine and lift it up as far as possible while lifting and rotating the mount.

They parts are keyed together and to the frame and engine. Gaining clearance by rotating the mount will allow enough clearance to then turn the bracket and remove it.

Clear the 2 keyed parts and rotate mount 90 degrees for clearance. Install is opposite sequence so keep an eye on sequence to remove.

Camaro&Harley_Guy · 06-13-2021, 10:06 AM

Good to know. I will be installing a set of poly mounts soon on my 2012 SS

gunchamp · 06-13-2021, 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fz4k98

I had to loosen and remove all bolts and nuts from mount and bracket, jack up engine a little for clearance. Then pull the bracket away from the engine and lift it up as far as possible while lifting and rotating the mount.

They parts are keyed together and to the frame and engine. Gaining clearance by rotating the mount will allow enough clearance to then turn the bracket and remove it.

Clear the 2 keyed parts and rotate mount 90 degrees for clearance. Install is opposite sequence so keep an eye on sequence to remove.

This right here. I havr bmr on mine and quite honestly, a bit of a pain to install

moose517 · 08-07-2021, 02:23 PM

So figured i'd just pop into this thread as i got my BMR mounts today and want to install them. Is it possible to do this without removing long tube headers? Hoping to tackle it here in a bit but i have a feeling that's gonna be the holdup and I'd rather not if i can help it (I'm on a gravel driveway, don't have anywhere to park it sadly that isn't to work). Seeing good advice though otherwise.

morepowerjoe · 08-08-2021, 02:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by moose517

So figured i'd just pop into this thread as i got my BMR mounts today and want to install them. Is it possible to do this without removing long tube headers? Hoping to tackle it here in a bit but i have a feeling that's gonna be the holdup and I'd rather not if i can help it (I'm on a gravel driveway, don't have anywhere to park it sadly that isn't to work). Seeing good advice though otherwise.

I'm wondering the same thing 🤔

AlanRubin · 08-08-2021, 02:27 AM

I just did mine, and I had to lift the engine 2" up. I did not even get close to the
tunnel wall.

Loosen the nuts to the trans mount at the trans cross-member first. Don't take the
nuts off, in case the mount studs pop out. Loosen them till the nut head is flush
with the end of the stud.

Driver side was the hardest, with the starter there, and the bare wire if you do not
have the cover. I got some sparks putting the pedestal back in on that side...
SO, I taped it up, and tried again, was okay after that.

morepowerjoe · 08-08-2021, 02:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AlanRubin

I just did mine, and I had to lift the engine 2" up. I did not even get close to the
tunnel wall.

Loosen the nuts to the trans mount at the trans cross-member first. Don't take the
nuts off, in case the mount studs pop out. Loosen them till the nut head is flush
with the end of the stud.

Driver side was the hardest, with the starter there, and the bare wire if you do not
have the cover. I got some sparks putting the pedestal back in on that side...
SO, I taped it up, and tried again, was okay after that.

But do you have longtubes?

AlanRubin · 08-10-2021, 08:10 PM

Oh, No, and all instructions say you have to remove them, because you may not get the
engine up high enough. Passenger side should be easier, it's the driver side that has
a bigger pedestal. I was okay with the passenger side, then I had to lift the engine
another inch or two to get the driver pedestal out.

moose517 · 08-11-2021, 01:05 PM

Yeah i decided not worth the trouble not doing so. Course also decided good time to also wrap my headers since like an idiot i didn't do so back when put them on haha.

Tarendor · 08-11-2021, 05:34 PM

I did it with long tube headers already installed but I cheated after about 5min. LoL

I was able to lift them up and cut off the bottom bolt with my sawzall.

InFiD3ViL · 08-11-2021, 06:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tarendor

I did it with long tube headers already installed but I cheated after about 5min. LoL

I was able to lift them up and cut off the bottom bolt with my sawzall.

Now THAT is how I would do it! I like the way you think.

02-10-2021, 12:12 PM	#1
Camarobychance Drives: 2014 AGM 2SS RS 1LE Join Date: Jul 2019 Location: Franklin,TN Posts: 62 View My Garage	Motor mount DIY HELP!!!! Attempting to install the bmr motor mounts myself and It was going perfect until now I can seem to get the actual mount and bracket out of the engine compartment. All 4 bolts are off of the bracket and both nuts are off of the mount itself I just can’t seem to wiggle it out of there. I have the engine jacked up using a block of wood and I’m pretty sure I have it maxed out. Am I missing something? What do I do?

02-10-2021, 12:34 PM	#2
CamaroCracka Drives: 2010 Turbo LS3 Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Palm Bay, FL Posts: 2,736	You could try lifting from one side or the other to gain more clearance. You are maxed on lifting the engine when the bellhousing on the trans gets close to the trans tunnel. I have the Prothane mounts and I don't remember it being that difficult, but I probably had headers at that time. Sometimes lowering a jack a hair can provide more room. I did mine entirely from under the car. __________________ 2010 SS - On3 kit with downpipe cutout, CTR 78/80, CompCam 239/251 620/632 122+4, E85, Z28 suspension and ZL1 diff with Outlaw axles. Gen6 ZL1/1LE brakes. 2011 Vert - 416/w 230/236 .612/.602 115lsa, 1LE suspension w/32mm rear bar. Z28 diff. ZL1 brakes.

02-10-2021, 12:51 PM	#3
Tarendor Drives: 2012 camaro 2ss rs L99 Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: North Sioux city SD Posts: 446 View My Garage	Did you separate the mount first from the bracket? __________________ 2012 2SS/RS, L99, no cats/mufflers, Ported intake manifold, fuel rail upgrade, ID1050x injectors, Vmax throttle body, 25% UDP, GPI DOD delete, GPI SS3, GPI cnc heads, GPI – 5/16″ Hardened Pushrods, BTR trunion upgrade, BTR .660 springs, pcv revamp w/dual catch cans, Circle D 3800, full BMR suspension & bushings. ZL1 fuel pump, HPT programmed fpcm. JMS bap, Snow VC-50 methanol setup. custom 4gal methonal tank, vs7875 turbo, FMIC, precision 46mm WG, 50mm BOV, 3bar map, SJM line lock, Innovate SCG-1, Hurst shifter with tap shift mod, ×2 Holley 14" fans Diy E85, Diy auxiliary pump

08-11-2021, 05:34 PM	#13
Tarendor Drives: 2012 camaro 2ss rs L99 Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: North Sioux city SD Posts: 446 View My Garage	I did it with long tube headers already installed but I cheated after about 5min. LoL I was able to lift them up and cut off the bottom bolt with my sawzall. Attached Images __________________ 2012 2SS/RS, L99, no cats/mufflers, Ported intake manifold, fuel rail upgrade, ID1050x injectors, Vmax throttle body, 25% UDP, GPI DOD delete, GPI SS3, GPI cnc heads, GPI – 5/16″ Hardened Pushrods, BTR trunion upgrade, BTR .660 springs, pcv revamp w/dual catch cans, Circle D 3800, full BMR suspension & bushings. ZL1 fuel pump, HPT programmed fpcm. JMS bap, Snow VC-50 methanol setup. custom 4gal methonal tank, vs7875 turbo, FMIC, precision 46mm WG, 50mm BOV, 3bar map, SJM line lock, Innovate SCG-1, Hurst shifter with tap shift mod, ×2 Holley 14" fans Diy E85, Diy auxiliary pump

02-10-2021, 03:03 PM	#4
fz4k98 Drives: 2013 1ss Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: WI. Posts: 520	I had to loosen and remove all bolts and nuts from mount and bracket, jack up engine a little for clearance. Then pull the bracket away from the engine and lift it up as far as possible while lifting and rotating the mount. They parts are keyed together and to the frame and engine. Gaining clearance by rotating the mount will allow enough clearance to then turn the bracket and remove it. Clear the 2 keyed parts and rotate mount 90 degrees for clearance. Install is opposite sequence so keep an eye on sequence to remove.

06-13-2021, 10:06 AM	#5
Camaro&Harley_Guy Drives: 2012 RS/SS Join Date: Jun 2021 Location: Northern NJ Posts: 25	Good to know. I will be installing a set of poly mounts soon on my 2012 SS

08-07-2021, 02:23 PM	#7
moose517 Drives: 2013 1SS Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Indiana Posts: 87	So figured i'd just pop into this thread as i got my BMR mounts today and want to install them. Is it possible to do this without removing long tube headers? Hoping to tackle it here in a bit but i have a feeling that's gonna be the holdup and I'd rather not if i can help it (I'm on a gravel driveway, don't have anywhere to park it sadly that isn't to work). Seeing good advice though otherwise.

08-08-2021, 02:27 AM	#9
AlanRubin Banned Drives: 2010 LS Join Date: Feb 2021 Location: Pgh Posts: 411	I just did mine, and I had to lift the engine 2" up. I did not even get close to the tunnel wall. Loosen the nuts to the trans mount at the trans cross-member first. Don't take the nuts off, in case the mount studs pop out. Loosen them till the nut head is flush with the end of the stud. Driver side was the hardest, with the starter there, and the bare wire if you do not have the cover. I got some sparks putting the pedestal back in on that side... SO, I taped it up, and tried again, was okay after that.

08-10-2021, 08:10 PM	#11
AlanRubin Banned Drives: 2010 LS Join Date: Feb 2021 Location: Pgh Posts: 411	Oh, No, and all instructions say you have to remove them, because you may not get the engine up high enough. Passenger side should be easier, it's the driver side that has a bigger pedestal. I was okay with the passenger side, then I had to lift the engine another inch or two to get the driver pedestal out.

08-11-2021, 01:05 PM	#12
moose517 Drives: 2013 1SS Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Indiana Posts: 87	Yeah i decided not worth the trouble not doing so. Course also decided good time to also wrap my headers since like an idiot i didn't do so back when put them on haha.