Officially a 2015 ZL1 Owner!

[ZMEnow]

Originally Posted by Astatenate

Okay I’ll do that now!

Update: just had my girlfriend hold the 1/2 wrench. I could rotate it like normal. No noise. I tried pulling back and forth. Towards the front bumper and push back towards engine. No play at all. I just ordered a solid isolator. But it appears I already have one. So I wonder where the noise is coming from.. :(

I also revved motor to about 1500-2000 rpm and girlfriend said the noise didn’t go away nor did it get louder. I’ll be calling my tech & service advisor friend in the morning.

You are checking the play on the rotation, not front to back, but side to side. It should not rock side to side if it’s solid as it will with the spring.

[ZMEnow]

Originally Posted by Astatenate

I have a local service advisor friend and Chevy tech friend who would be doing the work. I had a 3 month / 3,000 mile warranty from the dealer I bought the car. I had already done headers, intake and corsa with a tune. And fuel pump was “beginning to fail” my tuner said. And Was still covered. So that’s not an issue. I just thought the SC warranty after replaced once. Was over. Or 100k mile warranty Was only for the original owner. If I could get them to cover the SC replacement, my tech friend could replace with a new SC and install the solid isolator at that time. If so.

Here ya go..

[CuseZilla]

Cool car. Congrats! I’m pretty happy with Snow stage 3 meth injection kit. Install wasn’t bad.

[Astatenate]

Originally Posted by ZMEnow

You are checking the play on the rotation, not front to back, but side to side. It should not rock side to side if it’s solid as it will with the spring.

Originally Posted by ZMEnow

Here ya go..

Yeah it spins back and forth (Left to right) and I can hear a noise when I do it. So guess I do NOT have a solid isolator. Thanks for the link man!

So now my question is. Get it replaced under warranty with another new SC? And have my tech friend install the solid isolator I just ordered on the new SC? Or just let them install a new SC on it. And (maybe) have the issue again later? Is there any down side to a solid isolator?

[ZMEnow]

Originally Posted by Astatenate

Yeah it spins back and forth (Left to right) and I can hear a noise when I do it. So guess I do NOT have a solid isolator. Thanks for the link man!

So now my question is. Get it replaced under warranty with another new SC? And have my tech friend install the solid isolator I just ordered on the new SC? Or just let them install a new SC on it. And (maybe) have the issue again later? Is there any down side to a solid isolator?

With 5000 miles on the replacement I question if it was really changed, of course I cant hear what you hearing to know. The real question is can you convince the dealer to change it again because they have to believe it has failed.

The bulletin I sent you describes the cautions of a solid vs. spring. I have 4 people I know that I see their cars often that have solids that are in new Eaton SC's replaced by GM when they were still doing new back in 2014. All M6's and none of us have ever heard the so mentioned flutter, although there are some on the forum that have stated they have experienced it.

[Astatenate]

Originally Posted by ZMEnow

With 5000 miles on the replacement I question if it was really changed, of course I cant hear what you hearing to know. The real question is can you convince the dealer to change it again because they have to believe it has failed.

The bulletin I sent you describes the cautions of a solid vs. spring. I have 4 people I know that I see their cars often that have solids that are in new Eaton SC's replaced by GM when they were still doing new back in 2014. All M6's and none of us have ever heard the so mentioned flutter, although there are some on the forum that have stated they have experienced it.

I have paperwork showing it was changed. Of course that proves nothing. I can’t see why it would fail with 5k miles on it. I can maybe upload a video to YouTube and post the link so you guys can give me your opinion? I just don’t want something to go wrong with the SC and cause damage to something else internally. I ordered a solid isolator. And hope maybe I can get the SC covered and have him replace it when he replaced the entire SC.

I’ll read more on the bulletin. The good part is like I stated previously, I have a service advisor friend and he’ll be sending it back to a tech who is a good friend. Who already heard the noise when we installed the AEM gauge.

[Astatenate]

Update: Car is still under a warranty from the dealer I bought it from, it actually expires very soon and I caught it just in time. Took car to my local dealer w/ my advisor and tech friend. They diagnosed my SC isolator has failed (what I expected) , so they're attempting to replace the entire SC, my tech friend is also going to install a solid isolator on the brand new SC so this problem never comes up again! They're sending an inspector out Tuesday to approve/deny the claim.

Is there any drawbacks to a solid isolator? I know a lot of CTS-V and ZL1 owners have them. So I assume there's no drawbacks to having a solid installed? I was just curious why Eaton didn't install a solid to begin with. Anyways hopefully all goes smooth, replace SC with new one, solid isolator installed and no more issues! Then back to the fun modding, not the fixing mods. LOL

[Astatenate]

Update: They denied the claim due to the car being "extremely modified beyond factory specs" HAHA!! Oh well! I got a solid isolator, I'll be installing on my next round of mods!

Which by the way, want to run some info past you guys!
So currently sitting at 560whp w/ intake, headers, catback, catch-can & GPI tuned!

I am planning on installing the following,

• Fueling - (FIC 127lb (1200cc) injectors, DSX aux pump , GM ZL1 flex fuel sensor)
• Pulley - (ATI full kit w/ 10.0" pulley ring, Gates 70" green belt, DSX idler relocation bracket,stock idler, & ARP crank bolt
• Cooling - AFCO w/ dual fan, dual pass HX
• NGK TR7IX plugs
• Reinforced IC Brick

I was looking into a LS3 90mm TB as well (is this something that is beneficial for my build list?

Also what is a safe power level for the LSA and 6L90 auto trans?

I am shooting for around 700 whp. With proper tune / TQ management should the car handle well/ be reliable with that power? I also plan on going GPI cam in future. Anything else I'm lacking?

[JB'sZL1]

Originally Posted by Astatenate

Also what is a safe power level for the LSA and 6L90 auto trans?

Two different things. I say 750-800 for the former and a bit more for the latter.

I am shooting for around 700 whp. With proper tune / TQ management should the car handle well/ be reliable with that power? I also plan on going GPI cam in future. Anything else I'm lacking?

Yes. And Wheels.

Posted within.

[Astatenate]

Originally Posted by JB'sZL1

Posted within.

I got Weld RT-S S71 paired with 305/45 ET STREET R's, I posted in a separate thread, here they are for this post as well.

But anyways, cool, I wasn't sure if the A6 would like 700-750whp. I knew the motor would handle it safely. Just wasn't sure on the trans. I researched quite a bit and saw most tuners noted if the TQ management was reasonable, the trans and other drivetrain parts would be just fine! As far as motor I figured she'd be just fine!

Do you suggest the LS3 90mm TB or waste of $$ with my other mods ? I've heard of 10-20WHP "dyno proven/tested" from just swapping out the TB's with supporting mods/tune and bit better throttle response.


Thanks for the input JB!

[RobZL1]

Originally Posted by Astatenate

Update: They denied the claim due to the car being "extremely modified beyond factory specs" HAHA!! Oh well! I got a solid isolator, I'll be installing on my next round of mods!

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.
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I was looking into a LS3 90mm TB as well (is this something that is beneficial for my build list?

Man, that stinks. I love that an intake and headers is "extremely modified." LOL.

Regarding the 90mm, you know my thoughts on that one. Roughly 7% greater cross-sectional area. And real world results at your desired power level:

https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showp...64&postcount=7

[JB'sZL1]

Originally Posted by Astatenate

Do you suggest the LS3 90mm TB or waste of $$ with my other mods ? I've heard of 10-20WHP "dyno proven/tested" from just swapping out the TB's with supporting mods/tune and bit better throttle response.


Thanks for the input JB!

You're probably asking the wrong guy. I went with the NW 103mm boosted body. But I also ported via Jokerz the snout and sc. Bottom line is: more fuel...more air. Your oem tb will be the restriction point now. If you're not doing the crank, or heads or porting, I think the gains will be nominal at best...but every horse counts, especially if you can put it down. But you should still achieve 700hp with it stock. Have fun with those Welds! I have the same tires.

[Astatenate]

Originally Posted by RobZL1

Man, that stinks. I love that an intake and headers is "extremely modified." LOL.

Regarding the 90mm, you know my thoughts on that one. Roughly 7% greater cross-sectional area. And real world results at your desired power level:

https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showp...64&postcount=7

Haha There’s my boy! And yeah, all good man, knowing it’s just an isolator noise and nothing to worry about. When I go into the lid to reinforce the brick, I’ll swap the solid isolator in! No worries lol but yeah, that was the exact thread I chased down and saw! You’re the one who PM got me wondering! So I added it to the list. I figured 87 to 90MM would be good. At around 700 whp. He says it can make up to 20whp more. I think even if it made 5-10 it would be worth it. Power to cost ratio. I mean it’s $150-200 for a LS3 OEM TB. I figured why not. Just thought I’d get some more opinions!

Originally Posted by JB'sZL1

You're probably asking the wrong guy. I went with the NW 103mm boosted body. But I also ported via Jokerz the snout and sc. Bottom line is: more fuel...more air. Your oem tb will be the restriction point now. If you're not doing the crank, or heads or porting, I think the gains will be nominal at best...but every horse counts, especially if you can put it down. But you should still achieve 700hp with it stock. Have fun with those Welds! I have the same tires.

Yeah I don’t plan on going ported heads, SC or snout (but then again, who knows) ... I figured even nominal gains of 5-10 would be worth the $150-200 it costs. The ratio just seems to be there. And yeah. I love those ET STREET R’s. Man do they hook. And they’re like a perfect middle between a track/street use. The welds I got a killer deal on. Never thought I’d be able to get them reasonably priced. And was literally thrown a deal in my lap I took immediately. Lol

But yeah I guess I’ll add TB to the list. Even if I gain minimal amounts. I think cost effectiveness just makes sense. Even if the just added throttle response helps. But yeah I’m shooting for 700-750. I’ll be happy at that power level I feel like it’s safe on trans/motor and will be a great reliable fun car.

[Astatenate]

Need opinions on spark plugs.

I was dead set on TR7IX plugs. My tuner highly suggested NGK 4901 (R5671A-7) , both are #7 heat range plugs. The TR7IX is gapped to .040 out of box, 4901 copper is gapped at .031” . Tuner said I can use the copper 4901 ones right out of the box. No gapping needed. He said #7 heat range is good for my HP goals of 700-800whp.

I mean I’m down to save some $ , copper NGK 4901 are $2 a pc , TR7IX was $10 a pc . I figure I’ll get at least 10-20k out of the coppers and they have been known to run better than iridium. I know I’ll lose the longevity (50k miles) of the iridiums but this is a race car. Not the daily. So I’ll take the sacrifice.
But I could only find people running the NGK 4554 (#8) on here. Not the 4901 (#7) ...but I heard VERY good things about the TR7IX. So I’m a little conflicted here. Lol