Diy cam install in my ZL1

[Deez-zl1]

Im looking for a bit of encouragement. I am planning on installing a cam, pushrods and springs in my ZL1. I have done many cam installs on my own, but never in an LSA. I am doing the install without removing the heads or intake. Any advise will be greatly appreciated

[nighttowl]

Its not a bad job. You dont have to remove the heads or intake, follow the cam install DIY for an LS3, it will be the same.

[ZO6 Bryan]

This may help.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=352678

[Deez-zl1]

excellent, this will help a lot. appreciatted

[robrocketanski]

I spent a lot of time trying to lower the oil pan to make the oil pick up bolt easier but in the end the pan only dropped about a half inch. That may have been necessary though because that bolt was hard. To put the bolt in I had a friend "pry" the oil pan down against the pick up tube. He barely applied any pressure but it helped.

I don't know the year or model differences but my battery cable is not routed the same as on the 2010 in this thread http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=125123 on mine the battery cable is in a metal tray like thing under the oil pan which is what made it much harder to lower the pan.

[Deez-zl1]

I just finished installing my texas speed stage 3 cam, springs, push rods and large intercooler. It was a pretty big job for me, but it went pretty smooth. That link helped a bunch. Dyno next week. Idle definately needs to come up a couple hundred rpm,s but sounds freakin good

[Deez-zl1]

Originally Posted by ZO6 Bryan

This may help.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=352678

Thanx a bunch for this link, it helped a bunch

[E. Bryant]

For the most part, this is a straightforward - but not necessarily simple - project. All but a handful of the fasteners are easy to reach, but there are a lot of parts that need to be removed. Make sure to have the correct tools on hand, and keep your parts and fasteners well-organized. It'll be a 20ish hour project the first time through, so make sure you have enough time set aside to avoid rushing through the project.

Originally Posted by robrocketanski

I don't know the year or model differences but my battery cable is not routed the same as on the 2010 in this thread http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=125123 on mine the battery cable is in a metal tray like thing under the oil pan which is what made it much harder to lower the pan.

Yes, the tray which holds the harness is a real PITA; it partially blocks access to a couple of the pan bolts, and the bolt which hold the tray to the block are probably the two most difficult fasteners in the entire project.

[Deez-zl1]

Dyno run today. Not so good. Runs out of fuel at 4500 rpms. I get to install a new fuel pump this weekend. I knew this was a possibility. Oh well, all part of it.

[Deez-zl1]

I am going to install the jms fuel pump voltage booster, should take care of my fuel pressure issues. Then its back to the dyno

[Iroc-ZL1]

Originally Posted by Deez-zl1

Dyno run today. Not so good. Runs out of fuel at 4500 rpms. I get to install a new fuel pump this weekend. I knew this was a possibility. Oh well, all part of it.

Which fuel pump you going with ?

[Deez-zl1]

Originally Posted by Iroc-ZL1

Which fuel pump you going with ?

Jms fuel pump voltage booster

[Deez-zl1]

My dyno sessions are done, after the jms voltage booster the fuel pressure is steady 65psi all the way to 6500rpms. This car made 635hp and 640lb ft at the wheels. Outside temp was near 100 degrees and humidity also 100 percent. Im very happy with the numbers. This car is a beast

[bobby35ny]

Originally Posted by Deez-zl1

Dyno run today. Not so good. Runs out of fuel at 4500 rpms. I get to install a new fuel pump this weekend. I knew this was a possibility. Oh well, all part of it.

Ran out of fuel with only a cam change?
What other mods?

-Bobby