Best 3 modifications to rear, to gain traction? - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

eLeSthree · 10-03-2019, 08:45 AM

It's time to work on the rear. Which are the most helpful modifications for straight-line traction? I'm currently looking at:

BMR Rear craddle bushings, Pro. Poly
BMR Rear toe rods. Poly (do I need adjustable?) I'm not lowered..
BMR Rear Trailing Arms Poly
BMR Rear trailing arm bushings poly
BMR Extreme Anti-Roll bar

I had solid rear bushings in my Fox-Body and don't want that for this car. Going with poly to hopefully keep it street-able.

If you couldn't afford them all at once, which would you buy first?

olblue75 · 10-03-2019, 09:16 AM

Go solid on the cradle bushings I daily mine and don't even realize their there, car accelerates much better with no wind up of the cradle and is more planted.

zlathim · 10-03-2019, 10:08 AM

I run the BMR poly bushings and I like them. Lots of guys are running the solid bushings with good reviews. Either one will be an improvement.

If you do the toe rods at the same time you do cradle bushings you will save yourself a small amount of work. The cradle has to be lowered a little bit to get to the inboard mounting bolt out of the driver side toe rod. It's really not a big deal, but I thought I would throw that out there.

VR Baron · 10-03-2019, 10:11 AM

I have all bmr on my car. Cradle, trailing arms, toe rods, upper rear control arm poly bushings, all other bushings are poly as you listed. I am lowered on Ridetechs 1” and don’t need adjustable arms. I don’t drag race but I have no wheel hop in off the line starts in autocross or on street. More of traction limited now and how much I can rev on launch without spinning or laying rubber down before hooking up.

And the ride wasn’t hurt at all or very little, a little more solid over bumps. You will get some of that feel if you go to stiff on the rear swaybar

acammer · 10-03-2019, 10:47 AM

#1 thing is cradle bushings - dramatic difference.

eLeSthree · 10-05-2019, 09:22 AM

Thank you guys. I'm def gonna start with the cradle bushings. I'm gonna hold off on toe rods and trailing arms, until I can swing the adjustable ones. The tubular style looks way more rigid and its always a good idea to have adjustability.

As far as that drivers side toe rod bolt, I heard you could remove the trailing arm (or was it control arm?) from the spindle side, to create enough movement to get the toe rod bolt out.

eLeSthree · 10-17-2019, 04:29 AM

Finally got the cradle bushings installed. What a bitch. I didn't realize how massive these bushings were until I held them. I beveled the edge of the pin to help it slide into the bushing. Tight fit.

The cradle bushings alone made a huge difference! Under power, the rear was twisting causing the car to steer itself towards the curb. Now with the new bmr bushings, it just goes straight. Still spins some, but it goes straight. Money well spent.

Moving onto toe rods and trailing arms. Trying to decide if I should spend the extra cash on the adjustable arms/rods or not. I've never been to the drag strip, so I doubt I will need the ability to adjust the toe...

Anyone see a reason I need the adjustable stuff?

acammer · 10-17-2019, 07:49 AM

For me, I'm ok with the toe-rod being fixed. It's still adjustable for general alignment purposes, just not quick adjust for on/off track tweaking. I am curious to see what you experience with the toe rod and trailing arm changes, having done the cradle first. I'm on the fence for a next mod, and I'm considering toe/trailing arm. I really want to get as much slop out of the driveline as possible, I'm just not entirely sure it's there. I'm suspicious of my trans mount, I believe the 10-11 is a softer part than 12+. Might be upgrade time.

Chris49066SS · 10-17-2019, 11:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eLeSthree

Finally got the cradle bushings installed. What a bitch. I didn't realize how massive these bushings were until I held them. I beveled the edge of the pin to help it slide into the bushing. Tight fit.

The cradle bushings alone made a huge difference! Under power, the rear was twisting causing the car to steer itself towards the curb. Now with the new bmr bushings, it just goes straight. Still spins some, but it goes straight. Money well spent.

Moving onto toe rods and trailing arms. Trying to decide if I should spend the extra cash on the adjustable arms/rods or not. I've never been to the drag strip, so I doubt I will need the ability to adjust the toe...

Anyone see a reason I need the adjustable stuff?

I have the non adjustables for both...but the 15" conversion kits all seem to utilize the adjustables because of their tubular shape, possibly for more wheel clearance. When I do my 15" conversion from Carlyle, looks like some BMR nonadjustable TAs and toe rods will find a new home

I will add, for adjustability purposes, I am not lowered but with my camber bolts I can get my rear camber to 0, for my drag alignment just fine

olblue75 · 10-17-2019, 12:02 PM

I'm running adjustables on my but I do track my car and the alignment shop really likes them for the ease and amount of adjustment they provide.

Avenging Orange · 10-17-2019, 01:27 PM

What about diff. bushings to stabilize the punkin? (And yes, I meant to say punkin)

sixty9fordkiller · 10-17-2019, 06:53 PM

big difference going to solid cradle bushings. car plants it better. I didnt notice any introduced NVH other than when i go over a bump, i can feel it more

mikeman · 10-21-2019, 07:20 AM

I installed the Hotchkis 32mm rear sway bar on mine on the stiffest setting. Felt like I took out 300 lbs from the backend/trunk and the car accelerates much better out of the hole. Best mod I did to date.

SSEssence · 10-21-2019, 09:12 AM

^yup sway bars make a huge difference, running Pedders 27mm front and 32mm rears and the car is planted.

10-03-2019, 09:16 AM	#2
olblue75 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Clarksville Tennesse. Posts: 6,063	Go solid on the cradle bushings I daily mine and don't even realize their there, car accelerates much better with no wind up of the cradle and is more planted. __________________ Orange Krush II 1LE Front sway bar, Splitter, shocks and struts, Z28 dual mode mufflers, Intake, UCA Bushings, and Toresen 3.91 Diff. 1 piece DSS Drive Shaft, ZL1/C7 Calipers, and 32mm JPSS Rear Bar. ASC race spec splitter and wicker. 6th Gen M017 Wheels. Stainless Works 1 7/8 LTs. DSE and PAFDT Suspension components.

10-03-2019, 10:08 AM	#3
zlathim Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: May 2009 Location: Idaho Posts: 726	I run the BMR poly bushings and I like them. Lots of guys are running the solid bushings with good reviews. Either one will be an improvement. If you do the toe rods at the same time you do cradle bushings you will save yourself a small amount of work. The cradle has to be lowered a little bit to get to the inboard mounting bolt out of the driver side toe rod. It's really not a big deal, but I thought I would throw that out there. __________________ GPI SS2; EE E2 catch can; SP 1 7/8" LT Headers w/ hfc; FM AT 3" cat-back; CAI Cold Air Intake; AEM Wideband Tuned by GPI McCleod RXT; MGW flat stick; Ram Clutch slave cylinder & hydraulic adjuster BMR cradle & diff bushings, trailing arms, toe rods & upper control arm bushings Hotchkis sub-frame brace Stop Tech Z-23 brakes 4.10 gears, Eaton Truetrac, LPW diff cover Best 1/4 mile 12.073 @ 115.68 mph 3,300 ft DA

10-03-2019, 10:47 AM	#5
acammer GPI Sales Consultant Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SS SGM Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Weedsport, NY Posts: 2,794 View My Garage	#1 thing is cradle bushings - dramatic difference. __________________ GPI Max Package 2.0: Brodix BR7 heads/GPI porting, MAX3 cam, ST2116LSR, BSR Max Lift rockers, LS7 LSXR with 103mm TB, Vararam OTR, Mcleod RXT, G-Force/Strange 9" IRS setup with 4.63 gear. 551whp, 11.1@124mph. *Got a question about a GPI product? Feel free to shoot me a message!*

10-05-2019, 09:22 AM	#6
eLeSthree Drives: 2011 Camaro SS 6sp Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Drivers Seat Posts: 1,904	Thank you guys. I'm def gonna start with the cradle bushings. I'm gonna hold off on toe rods and trailing arms, until I can swing the adjustable ones. The tubular style looks way more rigid and its always a good idea to have adjustability. As far as that drivers side toe rod bolt, I heard you could remove the trailing arm (or was it control arm?) from the spindle side, to create enough movement to get the toe rod bolt out. __________________ 2011 Camaro SS---SOLD TMS Dart 427 FED M311s, ESS Tuning G4 Blower, DSX Triple FP Assembly, DSX FF, FIC1300, Mcleod RXT 1200HD, Edlebrock Pro Flo XT 1158whp 1017wtq. 2010 CTS-V A6 - "Stock" SOLD 630whp 658wtq 2024 F-150 RCSB 5.0 4x4 waiting for tunes...

10-17-2019, 04:29 AM	#7
eLeSthree Drives: 2011 Camaro SS 6sp Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Drivers Seat Posts: 1,904	Finally got the cradle bushings installed. What a bitch. I didn't realize how massive these bushings were until I held them. I beveled the edge of the pin to help it slide into the bushing. Tight fit. The cradle bushings alone made a huge difference! Under power, the rear was twisting causing the car to steer itself towards the curb. Now with the new bmr bushings, it just goes straight. Still spins some, but it goes straight. Money well spent. Moving onto toe rods and trailing arms. Trying to decide if I should spend the extra cash on the adjustable arms/rods or not. I've never been to the drag strip, so I doubt I will need the ability to adjust the toe... Anyone see a reason I need the adjustable stuff? Attached Images __________________ 2011 Camaro SS---SOLD TMS Dart 427 FED M311s, ESS Tuning G4 Blower, DSX Triple FP Assembly, DSX FF, FIC1300, Mcleod RXT 1200HD, Edlebrock Pro Flo XT 1158whp 1017wtq. 2010 CTS-V A6 - "Stock" SOLD 630whp 658wtq 2024 F-150 RCSB 5.0 4x4 waiting for tunes...

10-03-2019, 08:45 AM	#1
eLeSthree Drives: 2011 Camaro SS 6sp Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Drivers Seat Posts: 1,904	Best 3 modifications to rear, to gain traction? It's time to work on the rear. Which are the most helpful modifications for straight-line traction? I'm currently looking at: BMR Rear craddle bushings, Pro. Poly BMR Rear toe rods. Poly (do I need adjustable?) I'm not lowered.. BMR Rear Trailing Arms Poly BMR Rear trailing arm bushings poly BMR Extreme Anti-Roll bar I had solid rear bushings in my Fox-Body and don't want that for this car. Going with poly to hopefully keep it street-able. If you couldn't afford them all at once, which would you buy first? __________________ 2011 Camaro SS---SOLD TMS Dart 427 FED M311s, ESS Tuning G4 Blower, DSX Triple FP Assembly, DSX FF, FIC1300, Mcleod RXT 1200HD, Edlebrock Pro Flo XT 1158whp 1017wtq. 2010 CTS-V A6 - "Stock" SOLD 630whp 658wtq 2024 F-150 RCSB 5.0 4x4 waiting for tunes...

10-03-2019, 10:11 AM	#4
VR Baron SoCal Camaro5 Race Team Drives: 2021 Shadow Grey Camaro 2SS 1LE Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: SO CAL Posts: 14,287	I have all bmr on my car. Cradle, trailing arms, toe rods, upper rear control arm poly bushings, all other bushings are poly as you listed. I am lowered on Ridetechs 1” and don’t need adjustable arms. I don’t drag race but I have no wheel hop in off the line starts in autocross or on street. More of traction limited now and how much I can rev on launch without spinning or laying rubber down before hooking up. And the ride wasn’t hurt at all or very little, a little more solid over bumps. You will get some of that feel if you go to stiff on the rear swaybar

10-17-2019, 07:49 AM	#8
acammer GPI Sales Consultant Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SS SGM Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Weedsport, NY Posts: 2,794 View My Garage	For me, I'm ok with the toe-rod being fixed. It's still adjustable for general alignment purposes, just not quick adjust for on/off track tweaking. I am curious to see what you experience with the toe rod and trailing arm changes, having done the cradle first. I'm on the fence for a next mod, and I'm considering toe/trailing arm. I really want to get as much slop out of the driveline as possible, I'm just not entirely sure it's there. I'm suspicious of my trans mount, I believe the 10-11 is a softer part than 12+. Might be upgrade time. __________________ GPI Max Package 2.0: Brodix BR7 heads/GPI porting, MAX3 cam, ST2116LSR, BSR Max Lift rockers, LS7 LSXR with 103mm TB, Vararam OTR, Mcleod RXT, G-Force/Strange 9" IRS setup with 4.63 gear. 551whp, 11.1@124mph. *Got a question about a GPI product? Feel free to shoot me a message!*

10-17-2019, 12:02 PM	#10
olblue75 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Clarksville Tennesse. Posts: 6,063	I'm running adjustables on my but I do track my car and the alignment shop really likes them for the ease and amount of adjustment they provide. __________________ Orange Krush II 1LE Front sway bar, Splitter, shocks and struts, Z28 dual mode mufflers, Intake, UCA Bushings, and Toresen 3.91 Diff. 1 piece DSS Drive Shaft, ZL1/C7 Calipers, and 32mm JPSS Rear Bar. ASC race spec splitter and wicker. 6th Gen M017 Wheels. Stainless Works 1 7/8 LTs. DSE and PAFDT Suspension components.

10-17-2019, 01:27 PM	#11
Avenging Orange Drives: 2010 Inferno Orange 2SS/RS Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Clermont, IN Posts: 3,297	What about diff. bushings to stabilize the punkin? (And yes, I meant to say punkin) __________________ 2010 Inferno Orange 2SS/RS M6 Black Leather, Sun Roof, OBX Headers, Borla touring axle back, Cold Air Inductions CAI , non synthetic fluids, BMR total bushing upgrade/1" lowering springs, DSE 32mm rear sway bar. GM fe4 shocks/struts/LCA's, AAM 3.91 diff, Vertini RFS1.8 20x9 +30. Conti ExtremeContact Sport 275/35/20. sjm autoprod ABL dash kit. Mike Norris tuned 413/419. Avenging Orange: 43 years of not buying into the Hype........and damn proud of it!! https://youtu.be/9JD9it6SmB8 https://youtu.be/xmelTlEzI34 KICKING CANCERS ASS SINCE 2015!!

10-17-2019, 06:53 PM	#12
sixty9fordkiller Donkey Dick Cam Camaro Drives: 2010 2SS/RS LS3 M6 Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Los Angeles, CA Posts: 1,998	big difference going to solid cradle bushings. car plants it better. I didnt notice any introduced NVH other than when i go over a bump, i can feel it more __________________ Bone Stock

10-21-2019, 07:20 AM	#13
mikeman Banned Drives: 2015 Camaro Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: My Garage Posts: 1,125	I installed the Hotchkis 32mm rear sway bar on mine on the stiffest setting. Felt like I took out 300 lbs from the backend/trunk and the car accelerates much better out of the hole. Best mod I did to date.

10-21-2019, 09:12 AM	#14
SSEssence Instagram: Sangstah Drives: 2019 Camaro 1LE Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: Buena Park, CA. Posts: 2,802 View My Garage	^yup sway bars make a huge difference, running Pedders 27mm front and 32mm rears and the car is planted. __________________ 2019 SS 1LE - "CaSSandra" 2014 SS - "AleSSandra - Sold" 94 Z28 - Sold Follow the build https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=612717