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Old 03-16-2019, 07:14 AM   #15
DrkPhx


 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sfoda712 View Post
My turner said that my Iat's were jumping up and down when he was at WOT. This made it difficult for him to tune the car. Also when i'm driving the temps go up, its weird. The temps drop at idle and go up too 120, 130 when driving on highway, then drop down too 70-80 degrees AFTER 10 MINS OF DRIVING. I have AFCO with dual fans and a ice box. I'm wondering if it's air in system or bad pump.....anybody have this problem.

When im sitting in traffic idling its at 70 or 80 degrees but when I get up to speed on highway it goes up and stays at 130 for about ten mins then drops real fast to 70 degrees....

2012 zl1 692 rwhp with new tune

E85, long tubes, xpipe, dsx fuel system, upper lower pullies, cai, 1050 injectors, Btr 2 cam, springs, retainers, push rods, trenium rockers,
As mentioned above it could be a collapsed brick. I would check that, but first I would make sure the HX is properly bled, air in the system could cause that problem because the ZL1 IC pump will shut off if there is air in the line causing erratic temp changes like you're seeing. Is your ice box in the trunk?
I would make sure the AFCO fans are kicking on as well.
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Old 03-16-2019, 02:42 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrkPhx View Post
As mentioned above it could be a collapsed brick. I would check that, but first I would make sure the HX is properly bled, air in the system could cause that problem because the ZL1 IC pump will shut off if there is air in the line causing erratic temp changes like you're seeing. Is your ice box in the trunk?
I would make sure the AFCO fans are kicking on as well.
If there is break in system, which ice tank provides, there shouldnt be any air trapped anywhere.

Good question would be does ice tank have its own pump and is it routed to the heatx first when coming out of brick.

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Old 03-21-2019, 07:59 AM   #17
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I checked fluid and pump its pushing out hard into ice box. the only thing I can think of it the actual sensor or the brick is collapsed and not leaking.....
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Old 03-21-2019, 09:44 AM   #18
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If you have a collapsed brick, save the o-rings! New bricks do not come with them. If you send it out, take them off.

To confirm brick collapsed, I’d take the lid off. You can lower the cradle and get to the back bolts.

Only sure way to know. Once you get over 10 PSI boost, the risks go up. Closer to 15 and over, it’s a matter of time...

-Don
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Old 03-21-2019, 11:36 AM   #19
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The IAT's will increase after pulls and going to stopped traffic due to no air flow over the heat exchanger and less air being ingested at idle. That is not heat soak, and it is totally normal. On a 100 degree day (ambient temp) IAT1's will be near or above 100 degrees on a stock car. Cruising IAT2 temps should be 15-20 degrees above IAT1 which would put you near 120-125 degrees IAT2 (assuming IAT1 @ 105 degrees). It's not out of the question to see the temps you're seeing. I remember when I had my Cobalt SS/SC timing would be pulled once IAT2's reached 165 degrees not sure on the ZL1 though.
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Old 03-26-2019, 07:14 PM   #20
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i

Quote:
Originally Posted by DrkPhx View Post
As mentioned above it could be a collapsed brick. I would check that, but first I would make sure the HX is properly bled, air in the system could cause that problem because the ZL1 IC pump will shut off if there is air in the line causing erratic temp changes like you're seeing. Is your ice box in the trunk?
I would make sure the AFCO fans are kicking on as well.
fans run continuous, water level is good, had friend that works at dealer vacuum it down got a little air, i have a bmr ice tank in front of radiator...when open the pump is pumping good, the only thing i havent checked is the brick or the sensor itself
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Old 03-26-2019, 07:16 PM   #21
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im ready to pull out my bmr ice box and afco inner cooler and put a tank in the trunk and be done with it.....
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Old 03-26-2019, 07:26 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hammdo View Post
If you have a collapsed brick, save the o-rings! New bricks do not come with them. If you send it out, take them off.

To confirm brick collapsed, I’d take the lid off. You can lower the cradle and get to the back bolts.

Only sure way to know. Once you get over 10 PSI boost, the risks go up. Closer to 15 and over, it’s a matter of time...

-Don
i pull around 14 to 15 and if its real cold its hit 16....
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