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Old 04-19-2017, 09:07 PM   #29
dreksnot
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Top breather hose goes to intake manifold with PCV valve, next two lower breather hoses to the valley cover and passenger side valve cover. The 90* single breather hose goes to the drivers side valve cover.
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Old 04-19-2017, 09:10 PM   #30
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The agp instructions did instruct to cap off one port, then one port is routed to the back side of the driver side value cover(clean side I believe), then the second one is routed to the front passenger side valve cover (dirty side), then the third is to the valley cover.(I do believe I have the top port caped though I could be wrong though it's been awhile since I have really looked at it)
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Cai intake and a few other mods😎

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Old 04-19-2017, 09:32 PM   #31
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To eliminate the oil smell here is another version of instructions
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Cai intake and a few other mods😎
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Old 04-20-2017, 07:55 PM   #32
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To eliminate the oil smell here is another version of instructions
Ok, that would work. Right now I have a hose coming from the intake tube going to the intake port. I should be able to cap that line and run one from the catch can to the intake as shown there. I'm assuming that the PCV valve shown is a generic AutoZone one? Something with a check valve? It would be really nice to get rid of the smell. Thanks for the help.
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Old 04-27-2017, 04:22 PM   #33
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Ok, that would work. Right now I have a hose coming from the intake tube going to the intake port. I should be able to cap that line and run one from the catch can to the intake as shown there. I'm assuming that the PCV valve shown is a generic AutoZone one? Something with a check valve? It would be really nice to get rid of the smell. Thanks for the help.
I have this smell as well and would like to get rid of it. Let me know what you about the PCV valve.
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Old 04-28-2017, 03:17 AM   #34
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Just connect a 3/8 hose from the upper nipple on your catch can that you aren't using. And connect it to a PCV check valve and then to the nipple on the passenger side of the intake manifold, right behind the throttle body.

This will constantly be vacuuming out the catch can and burning off those fumes. The down side is that the engine is now idling off air through that tube that was never seen by the MAF sensor. It takes a good amount of extra tuning by someone who knows how, to tune around that issue. We quit including that tube and check valve cause the VAST majority of 'tooners' in the US couldn't seem to comprehend and tune around such a basic thing.
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Old 04-28-2017, 09:53 AM   #35
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Just connect a 3/8 hose from the upper nipple on your catch can that you aren't using. And connect it to a PCV check valve and then to the nipple on the passenger side of the intake manifold, right behind the throttle body.

This will constantly be vacuuming out the catch can and burning off those fumes. The down side is that the engine is now idling off air through that tube that was never seen by the MAF sensor. It takes a good amount of extra tuning by someone who knows how, to tune around that issue. We quit including that tube and check valve cause the VAST majority of 'tooners' in the US couldn't seem to comprehend and tune around such a basic thing.
Thanks for the response Kevin. You answered my next question about the additional air(essentially vacuum leak).

Does it matter if the MAF sees that air or not if you are SD tuned?
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Old 04-28-2017, 01:01 PM   #36
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Subframe Brace Question?

I have a convertible and I wanted to know will I be able to use this front subframe brace with the AGP turbo kit?
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Old 04-28-2017, 01:03 PM   #37
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http://www.lsrperformance.com/camaro-chassis.html
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Old 04-28-2017, 02:44 PM   #38
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On an SD tune the vacuum leak doesn't matter anymore.

I don't know if that brace will fit or not. Not really sure a brace going left to right like that is needed at all. And in that location, I can't imagine it's making any noticeable difference. Strut tower braces make 100x more sense and still make very little difference.
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Old 04-29-2017, 06:18 PM   #39
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Just connect a 3/8 hose from the upper nipple on your catch can that you aren't using. And connect it to a PCV check valve and then to the nipple on the passenger side of the intake manifold, right behind the throttle body.

This will constantly be vacuuming out the catch can and burning off those fumes. The down side is that the engine is now idling off air through that tube that was never seen by the MAF sensor. It takes a good amount of extra tuning by someone who knows how, to tune around that issue. We quit including that tube and check valve cause the VAST majority of 'tooners' in the US couldn't seem to comprehend and tune around such a basic thing.
Would it be beneficial to seal the catch can and run the idle air tube to the can and then run a line from the can to the intake? This would eliminate the unmetered air issue except for the blow-by gases. Similar to the Elite Engineering can setup.
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Old 04-29-2017, 07:20 PM   #40
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Would it be beneficial to seal the catch can and run the idle air tube to the can and then run a line from the can to the intake? This would eliminate the unmetered air issue except for the blow-by gases. Similar to the Elite Engineering can setup.
You want to make sure you have an easy home for any excess crankcase pressure.
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Old 04-29-2017, 10:07 PM   #41
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Would it be beneficial to seal the catch can and run the idle air tube to the can and then run a line from the can to the intake? This would eliminate the unmetered air issue except for the blow-by gases. Similar to the Elite Engineering can setup.
No, the problem you're left with then is at WOT all your engines blow by, (more significant the more power you make) all has to escape the sealed catch can from a single 3/8" line. Not nearly enough flow. Seen countless FI cars with Elite cans hooked up that way with blown out rear main seals.

The way we ship catch cans now is pretty good and easy to tune. We don't do a line from the can to the intake at all, so the MAF sees all the air entering the engine. The only downside is the oil vapor smell is not sucked in anywhere and burnt off. Hooking up a 'draft' tube from our current system to the inlet of the passenger side turbo is not too shabby. But at idle you really don't get much suction there.

And as you get more power you need more venting for blow by. And forged pistons, even more. So before too long dual cans with bigger lines than the factory valve cover nipples becomes necessary. Dual 3/4" lines are common big power cars.
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Old 05-02-2017, 01:07 PM   #42
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Did ya'll come out with a fuel system to support 1000hp on e85 cheaper than fore or squash yet?
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