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Old 01-29-2014, 01:22 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by ZO6 Bryan View Post
It is bad to start a car up and not drive it and let it warm up thoroughly. If you are going to start it, you need to take it out and drive it and get it thoroughly warmed up so it purges all the moisture out of the engine block. If you just start it briefly with out it really getting warmed up all you're doing is producing a bunch of condensation that sits inside the engine and the oil. If you're worried about it just get a battery tender and keep it plugged in so that it doesn't run the battery down.
Bryan nailed it exactly!
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Old 01-29-2014, 06:43 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZO6 Bryan View Post
It is bad to start a car up and not drive it and let it warm up thoroughly. If you are going to start it, you need to take it out and drive it and get it thoroughly warmed up so it purges all the moisture out of the engine block. If you just start it briefly with out it really getting warmed up all you're doing is producing a bunch of condensation that sits inside the engine and the oil. If you're worried about it just get a battery tender and keep it plugged in so that it doesn't run the battery down.
The OP doesn't appear to have electricity in the storage unit where the car is kept, so he has no place to plug the battery tender into.
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Old 01-29-2014, 08:10 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by HDRDTD View Post
The OP doesn't appear to have electricity in the storage unit where the car is kept, so he has no place to plug the battery tender into.
Then pull the battery and take it inside. Or if you just disconnect the ground wire from the battery and leave it in the car it won't run down. That's what I do with my boat and it sits 7 months and fires right up when reconnected.
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Old 01-29-2014, 09:29 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by ZO6 Bryan View Post
It is bad to start a car up and not drive it and let it warm up thoroughly. If you are going to start it, you need to take it out and drive it and get it thoroughly warmed up so it purges all the moisture out of the engine block. If you just start it briefly with out it really getting warmed up all you're doing is producing a bunch of condensation that sits inside the engine and the oil. If you're worried about it just get a battery tender and keep it plugged in so that it doesn't run the battery down.
Bang on brutha !!!
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Old 01-29-2014, 11:36 AM   #19
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Try this?
http://www.ebay.com/bhp/battery-terminal-disconnect
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Old 01-29-2014, 04:45 PM   #20
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What about a solar panel if no 110 power available. Rather inexpensive option. Most half decent ones offer "float" or overcharge protection.
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Old 01-29-2014, 07:21 PM   #21
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synthetic fluids do not stop cold start up wear, they still get thicker, they still have the same rating as non synthetics, 5w30 means its viscosity when warm then cold, I always hear synthetics are not as thick when cold but then that would mean they are not true to their rating (for example: thats like saying a synthetic 5w30 is comparable to a 5w20 conventional) which would make no sense
..I disagree. Synthetic fluids are superior to natural lubricants. They are more true to their specifications and viscosity levels, they last longer, break down less, and prolong wear...
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Old 02-20-2014, 07:52 PM   #22
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..I disagree. Synthetic fluids are superior to natural lubricants. They are more true to their specifications and viscosity levels, they last longer, break down less, and prolong wear...
synthetic motor oil is more robust, especially in terms of low-temperature pumping and flow compared to conventional oils. High-temperature stability leading to the protection against deposits is also superior. These attributes translate into less engine wear, to help keep your engine running like new, and a long engine life. Conventional oils lack the performance of synthetic oils in the areas of low-temperature performance and high-temperature oxidation stability. The mineral base stocks used in conventional motor oils also contain significantly more impurities, such as aromatics and other undesirable contaminants that cannot be completely removed by conventional refining of crude oil.

It also has Superior protection against ash and other deposit formation in engine hot spots particular in turbochargers and superchargers. for less oil burnoff and reduced chances of damaging oil passageway clogging I think its the best way to go..MOST LS based motors have issues with sucking oil..

All jet engine have to use syntheic oil as well,but piston engine planes do not have to as there is not as much heat in them..
Another thing about it is that syntheic oil is better at leaving a thin coating on the bearings . so during start up's which is when most engine wear happens ,It provides protect for your engine in the long run..
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Old 02-21-2014, 12:20 AM   #23
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Living in houston its for the most part always above 45-55 degrees in the winter..My ZL1 spends most of its time just parked,as i just dont drive it,and again will mostly starting thinking about selling it come march as i just purchased a ranch,and the roads leading in and on it are either clay or hard packed dirt mix,so i got a new truck as well..
Anyway since its not driven i go out to the garage and start it up and let it idle for 10-15mins once a week,now that the weather is in the 20's and will kill a batt pretty quick how do you guys feel about starting Your Zl1 in cold weather ?
I am of the mind set that the oil is thicker and the metal is colder so the clearances have gotten smaller and starting it in really cold weather can cause extra wear that doesnt happen in hotter weather.. does anyone else think the same way ?
I do not have a plug for a charger in the storage unit its parked in,otherwise i would yes take that route..thanks
This has been a brutal winter, for the south, east and mid west no doubt. One. The ZL1 has synthetic oil and gear lube fluid. There is no concern with cold weather start up. Two. Starting it up once a week is fine. No harm. I am snowed in and temps have been below freezing, at times brutally low, since early January. I run mine every 2-3 weeks for about a half an hour. Mine will be two years old in April. You won't hurt anything running the car and warming it up at any temp. With the S/C BTW it warms up in record time.
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Old 02-21-2014, 10:48 PM   #24
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I try to start mine up at least once a month while stored. Sometimes leave it running for the better part of an hour. Most times.....-30C. Not plugged in. Running a Lithionics Li-Po battery in it and it starts everytime, loads of power, and registers oil pressure right away. Only real reason I do it is to relax the valve train by not leaving springs fully compressed for the whole winter season and to reposition rings inside the cylinders. Fuel is all treated prior to storage but feels good to move some through the pump and injectors also.
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Old 02-22-2014, 12:11 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by DavidW View Post
synthetic fluids do not stop cold start up wear, they still get thicker, they still have the same rating as non synthetics, 5w30 means its viscosity when warm then cold, I always hear synthetics are not as thick when cold but then that would mean they are not true to their rating (for example: thats like saying a synthetic 5w30 is comparable to a 5w20 conventional) which would make no sense
....No. Synthetic fluids, as far I understand them, have a friction coefficient worlds apart from natural lubricants to the point they exasborate break in. Synthetic versus natural lubricants are apples and oranges different..no worry on cold start up.
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Old 02-22-2014, 08:36 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidW View Post
synthetic fluids do not stop cold start up wear, they still get thicker, they still have the same rating as non synthetics, 5w30 means its viscosity when warm then cold, I always hear synthetics are not as thick when cold but then that would mean they are not true to their rating (for example: thats like saying a synthetic 5w30 is comparable to a 5w20 conventional) which would make no sense
Try this. Take a bottle of your favorite conventional oil and a bottle of full synthetic (not a blend) of the same viscosity and but them in your freezer overnight. In the morning pull them out of the freezer and while still cold take the lids off and see which one pours the easiest. Answer - synthetic.

In a multi-viscosity oil the number before the "w" is the viscosity rating at 0*F and the end number refers to the viscosity at 210*F. A straight or single viscosity oil is rated at 210*F.
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Old 02-22-2014, 10:33 AM   #27
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I don't start mine until spring it just sits under the cover in heated storage for the winter. Best not to start unless you are going to use it. If out in the cold remove the battery to a warm location. It is not good for the oil (synthetic or conventional) in any engine not to come up to temp so the moisture and corrosive gases are expelled from the oil/crankcase.
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Old 02-22-2014, 11:06 AM   #28
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If you are not needing to drive it in the cold I would not start it on really cold days just to run it. You will create more wear on everything when it is cold and the oil is thicker.
I agree with Scott, you will do more harm than good in the really cold periods. If you are worried about the battery and know it will be awhile before you start it again just remove the battery and bring it inside. Better on the battery and you could put a battery tender on it then if need be.
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