You are browsing camaro5 
 |
|
05-06-2016, 12:15 AM
|
#1 |
|
Milkster
|
kill the squeak
front rotors replaced.. continued using old pads.( good condition still) squeaks terribly.. what do i need to do ... added grease and spray squeal be gone stuff... helped for about 1 week
|
|
|
|
05-06-2016, 12:23 AM
|
#2 |
 |
Similar situation so I am also curious ..
|
|
|
|
|
05-06-2016, 02:24 AM
|
#3 |
          
Drives: 2017 2SS M6 Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WNY
Posts: 7,070
|
did you ruff up the pad befor you put it back on?
__________________
real ZL1 wheels and brakes, 285/305 Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Pray ported Intake manifold, Soler Throttle Body, Rotofab intake, EFI Tuning Flex fuel kit, full American Racing Headers Exhaust, 1 7/8" w/ cats H pipe and mufflers. Full 1LE suspension, with BMR adjustable sway bars and links, GM aluminum cradle bushings, Hurst shifter with lighter reverse spring, TWM shifter knob, Tick level 1 transmission. I should have bought a ZL1
|
|
|
|
|
05-06-2016, 07:48 AM
|
#4 |
 Drives: 1996 Camaro Z28, 2012 2SS/RS Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Texas
Posts: 279
|
It's all about the metal to metal contact. All the clips and pins as well as the back of the pads need the grease. Lots of it.
__________________
2012 2SS/RS IOM, LS3, Aftermarket Hurst shifter, IOM interior, Borla "S", 1 7/8 Big Flow headers, ADM Race cold air, BMR 1" lowering springs, SLP Supercharger, Custom Comp Cam, Fore Innovations twin pumps, Flex Fuel Sensor
|
|
|
|
|
05-06-2016, 10:44 AM
|
#5 |
|
Milkster
|
ive put soo much grease on it..
|
|
|
|
|
05-06-2016, 11:04 AM
|
#6 | |
|
'It's an experiment'
Drives: [COTW 2/09/15] '11 GPI LSA SC Z/LE Join Date: May 2014
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 8,694
|
Quote:
-Don
__________________
747 RWHP 794 RWTQ
"Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races." - Enzo Ferrari See My Build: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=385577 Last edited by hammdo; 05-07-2016 at 06:17 PM. |
|
|
|
|
|
05-06-2016, 11:37 AM
|
#7 |
Drives: 2011 1LT/RS A6 RJT SuperCharged Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: 87114
Posts: 3,503
|
You need to bed the brake pads and rotors to each other.
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/....jsp?techid=85
__________________
Power is worthless without control. The 2nd protects the 1st.
BMR sub frame brace, BMR tunnel brace, LSR sways, LSR CM ca & tl, Sphon ExD el, GM tower brace, Megan EZ Streets, Goodridge Stainless Steel Braided brake lines, PowerStop D/S rotors & pads, Doug Thorty Ceramic Shorties, Magnaflow x-pipe, MRT V2.0, KICKER PowerStage sub & amp, Infinity speakers & tweeters, Viteese Throttle Controller, Viteese Paddle Shifters, ACS T2 Splitter, ACS T2 Ports/Quad LED lights, VDI kit, Havoc diffuser, IPF ECU/TRANS tuned, IPF/KPE Supercharged. 364RWHP/297RWTQ |
|
|
|
|
05-06-2016, 11:55 PM
|
#8 |
|
SomeguyK
Drives: 2010 Black 2SS/RS Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: FL
Posts: 1,947
|
Like others are saying, bed the pads. A lot of noise has to due with the variances between the pads and rotors. Being that the rotors are new, but the pads are not and the friction material is matched to the old rotors. Greasing is good, but you can grease everything but nothing will fill the voids between the old pads and the new rotors.
__________________
TMS 427, Dart iron Block, Forged assembly, Frankenstien heads, AGP TT 62/62 BB turbo's, AGP/Fore triple fuel system, Tilton clutch, Holley 1 7/8 shorties, Technostalgia tail lights,Oracle, Aeroforce, MGW shifter,Flowmaster, Pegasus subframe bushings,BMR trailing & toe arms,Z28 UCA bushings,Zl1 rear sway bar,Prothane,BMR,Goodridge brake lines,Ridetech HQ coilovers,3.91,Trutrac,billet caps,DSS axles,HE offest,built TR6060,1LE diffuser,Havoc spoiler,SSclones,20in MRR 017, Pirelli P Zero, Nitto NT555RII
More to come. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
