Nitrous question - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Bandit63 · 10-07-2018, 07:54 PM

New to running nitrous, I have the nitrous express plate kit, maximizer 4 and bottle heater. My 2011 Camaro has tsp stage 3 3.2 vvt cam, LT headers, no cats, cai, 3200 stall and 3.91 gear. Looking to run 100 maybe up to 150 shot. Question is do I need to upgrade fuel system (ZL1 fuel pump, fpcm) and LNC 2000 to retard timing or can I use a stand alone fuel system with race fuel and not have to have a LNC 2000 to retard the timing. And should I get car dyno tuned again after nitrous install.

Juiced1 · 10-07-2018, 08:05 PM

Your fuel pump should be adequate a fpcm wouldn't hurt though. You should talk to your tuner about the timing. I would suspect they'll recommend pulling some timing or run some 100 octane when spraying.

Bandit63 · 10-09-2018, 06:21 PM

Come on guys, can we get a little discussion going on this?

Sinister10 · 10-09-2018, 08:32 PM

I had a wet kit on my 4th gen TA. It was completly stock and I was spraying ~100-125 shot. Since it was a wet kit, I didn’t need to upgrade the fuel system. I also never got it tuned for nitrous. Ran consistent 12.3s at around 112-115mph. Ran it that way for a couple years.

Badbubba · 10-10-2018, 07:31 AM

The only way to really know is to log the fuel pressure during the run. Log without spraying to get a base line, then spray a 50 shot and work your way up. If your fuel pressure drops considerably and doesn't want to recover, then you've reached your limit. Drop back to the lower shot where everything was good and decide if your satisfied at that power level. A progressive system will help take away from the initial fuel pressure drop when the nitrous activates. Realise that your fuel pressure drop will also be seen at the injectors.
Are you on the stock pump now, or do you have the ZL1 and fpcm and are asking if you need to upgrade even more? If your on the stock pump, I'd suggest to get a standalone fuel system for nitrous. My stock pump could not keep up. If you have a good n/a tune, I see no reason to have a dyno tune for the nitrous. Tune it by using the correct jets, fuel pressure and timing with the LNC2000. I suggest getting a wideband and fuel pressure safety switches. Do not rely on using race fuel in the standalone so you won't have to pull timing. You could probably get away with it for a small shot, but imo, I wouldn't. Just keep fresh 93 in the standalone and read the plugs to tune accordingly.

RealQuick · 10-10-2018, 08:00 AM

I'd go with the timing box and a WB at a bare minimum. As suggested, log A/F as you up the sizeof the shot.

Roader · 10-10-2018, 10:53 AM

Id get the stand alone, LNC 2000, and 150 shot and call it a day. running the stock pump is going to cause you to have to run a very small shot. I have a stand alone (VP C23) with lnc and run a 200 shot. LNC is nice as I have one tune and LNC is activated only when I need it.

Punisher_ATX · 10-10-2018, 01:18 PM

On my car stock pump no FPCM 500hp N/A and a 150 plate kit and never had any fuel pressure problems. Did have rail flipped and a c6 fuel line on it to prevent pressure dips

Roader · 10-10-2018, 03:19 PM

Im surprised you didn't have any issues at your power levels at the initial hit.

Bandit63 · 10-10-2018, 09:00 PM

What about spark plugs? Go one degree colder?

Badbubba · 10-11-2018, 06:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Punisher_ATX

On my car stock pump no FPCM 500hp N/A and a 150 plate kit and never had any fuel pressure problems. Did have rail flipped and a c6 fuel line on it to prevent pressure dips

Wow, surprising. I was uncomfortable with the pressure drop and recovery with just a 50 shot. Didn't flip the rails, but had the fuel hose upgrade. Did you log fuel pressure or just tune to afr? Every car is different.

Badbubba · 10-11-2018, 06:55 AM

NGK BR7EF. They are 2 steps colder and non projected. There is other info out there in other threads on C5 if you run a search.

Punisher_ATX · 10-11-2018, 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Badbubba

Wow, surprising. I was uncomfortable with the pressure drop and recovery with just a 50 shot. Didn't flip the rails, but had the fuel hose upgrade. Did you log fuel pressure or just tune to afr? Every car is different.

We did both. Commanded 62psi of rail pressure and on the hit the pressure dropped to 56 and then quickly recovered to around 58-59 AFR stayed solid also Now i did have issues with my original kit and a stock fuel line dropping rail pressure pretty hard but with the new feed line it was solid. Took about 15-20 bottles thru it before i went turbo.

10-07-2018, 07:54 PM	#1
Bandit63 Drives: 2011 Camaro SS Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Paducah Ky Posts: 257	Nitrous question New to running nitrous, I have the nitrous express plate kit, maximizer 4 and bottle heater. My 2011 Camaro has tsp stage 3 3.2 vvt cam, LT headers, no cats, cai, 3200 stall and 3.91 gear. Looking to run 100 maybe up to 150 shot. Question is do I need to upgrade fuel system (ZL1 fuel pump, fpcm) and LNC 2000 to retard timing or can I use a stand alone fuel system with race fuel and not have to have a LNC 2000 to retard the timing. And should I get car dyno tuned again after nitrous install. __________________ MRR M228 Wheels, Circle D 3200 Stall, 3.91 Gear, Texas Speed VVT 3.2 Cam, CHE Rocker Arm Bushings, Texas Speed Headers, No Cats

10-09-2018, 06:21 PM	#3
Bandit63 Drives: 2011 Camaro SS Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Paducah Ky Posts: 257	Come on guys, can we get a little discussion going on this? __________________ MRR M228 Wheels, Circle D 3200 Stall, 3.91 Gear, Texas Speed VVT 3.2 Cam, CHE Rocker Arm Bushings, Texas Speed Headers, No Cats

10-09-2018, 08:32 PM	#4
Sinister10 Drives: 2010 Camaro SS Join Date: Jul 2018 Location: Indiana Posts: 543	I had a wet kit on my 4th gen TA. It was completly stock and I was spraying ~100-125 shot. Since it was a wet kit, I didn’t need to upgrade the fuel system. I also never got it tuned for nitrous. Ran consistent 12.3s at around 112-115mph. Ran it that way for a couple years. __________________ 2010 2SS/RS 6M, MGW flatstick, CAI cold air intake, SLP loudmouth 2 axleback, TSP 1 7/8 headers w/ hfc, pfadt 1" springs, SRP pedals, emblempros "6.2L" emblems on hood, ZL1 grill, M/T SC-5 wheels, nitto motivo 275f 315r. ZL1 addons wickerbill, smoked lenses, resonator delete x pipe, diode dynamics DRLs 1LE suede steering wheel, mighty mouse CC. SCTX4 and Dyno Steve tune.

10-10-2018, 07:31 AM	#5
Badbubba GrINned & JUICEd Drives: 15STI, 10Expy, 10 2SS/RS M6, 47KB1 Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 1,247	The only way to really know is to log the fuel pressure during the run. Log without spraying to get a base line, then spray a 50 shot and work your way up. If your fuel pressure drops considerably and doesn't want to recover, then you've reached your limit. Drop back to the lower shot where everything was good and decide if your satisfied at that power level. A progressive system will help take away from the initial fuel pressure drop when the nitrous activates. Realise that your fuel pressure drop will also be seen at the injectors. Are you on the stock pump now, or do you have the ZL1 and fpcm and are asking if you need to upgrade even more? If your on the stock pump, I'd suggest to get a standalone fuel system for nitrous. My stock pump could not keep up. If you have a good n/a tune, I see no reason to have a dyno tune for the nitrous. Tune it by using the correct jets, fuel pressure and timing with the LNC2000. I suggest getting a wideband and fuel pressure safety switches. Do not rely on using race fuel in the standalone so you won't have to pull timing. You could probably get away with it for a small shot, but imo, I wouldn't. Just keep fresh 93 in the standalone and read the plugs to tune accordingly. __________________ GPI SS3 Cam & stuff,N.O. Plate(dedicated fuel tank,progressive,fuel hose upgrade,remote opener,heater,console switches),LNC2000,CTAP,ARH 1 7/8" LTs/gutted cats/X pipe/mufflers,Jet Hot coated LTs,GPI HPT Tune,CAI, Scoop,Rx Catch Can,Gates heater hose relocation, Remote clutch & auto brake res,Metco loop,Momentum Tunnel Brace,TSW Nurb 18",555 & 05,Pfadt trailing arms & toe rods,Autometer WB,Fesler Pillar Pod,LED strips (int),Lloyds floor & trunk mats,LED DRL/front turn & license plate,DRL harness,VLEDs tail lights,Plasticoat Bowties. Ord: Oct 5, 2009 Rec: Nov 19, 2009 13.17@112.6 stock

10-10-2018, 09:00 PM	#10
Bandit63 Drives: 2011 Camaro SS Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Paducah Ky Posts: 257	What about spark plugs? Go one degree colder? __________________ MRR M228 Wheels, Circle D 3200 Stall, 3.91 Gear, Texas Speed VVT 3.2 Cam, CHE Rocker Arm Bushings, Texas Speed Headers, No Cats

10-07-2018, 08:05 PM	#2
Juiced1 Account Suspended Drives: 2012 2SS CAMARO 45th Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: St. Charles, IL Posts: 18,663	Your fuel pump should be adequate a fpcm wouldn't hurt though. You should talk to your tuner about the timing. I would suspect they'll recommend pulling some timing or run some 100 octane when spraying.

10-10-2018, 08:00 AM	#6
RealQuick Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS M6 - Intake/Exhaust Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Bridgewater Posts: 693	I'd go with the timing box and a WB at a bare minimum. As suggested, log A/F as you up the sizeof the shot.

10-10-2018, 10:53 AM	#7
Roader Drives: Camaro Join Date: Oct 2018 Location: Alabama Posts: 673	Id get the stand alone, LNC 2000, and 150 shot and call it a day. running the stock pump is going to cause you to have to run a very small shot. I have a stand alone (VP C23) with lnc and run a 200 shot. LNC is nice as I have one tune and LNC is activated only when I need it.

10-10-2018, 01:18 PM	#8
Punisher_ATX Drives: 2010 SS Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Austin Posts: 439	On my car stock pump no FPCM 500hp N/A and a 150 plate kit and never had any fuel pressure problems. Did have rail flipped and a c6 fuel line on it to prevent pressure dips

10-10-2018, 03:19 PM	#9
Roader Drives: Camaro Join Date: Oct 2018 Location: Alabama Posts: 673	Im surprised you didn't have any issues at your power levels at the initial hit.

10-11-2018, 06:55 AM	#12
Badbubba GrINned & JUICEd Drives: 15STI, 10Expy, 10 2SS/RS M6, 47KB1 Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 1,247	NGK BR7EF. They are 2 steps colder and non projected. There is other info out there in other threads on C5 if you run a search. __________________ GPI SS3 Cam & stuff,N.O. Plate(dedicated fuel tank,progressive,fuel hose upgrade,remote opener,heater,console switches),LNC2000,CTAP,ARH 1 7/8" LTs/gutted cats/X pipe/mufflers,Jet Hot coated LTs,GPI HPT Tune,CAI, Scoop,Rx Catch Can,Gates heater hose relocation, Remote clutch & auto brake res,Metco loop,Momentum Tunnel Brace,TSW Nurb 18",555 & 05,Pfadt trailing arms & toe rods,Autometer WB,Fesler Pillar Pod,LED strips (int),Lloyds floor & trunk mats,LED DRL/front turn & license plate,DRL harness,VLEDs tail lights,Plasticoat Bowties. Ord: Oct 5, 2009 Rec: Nov 19, 2009 13.17@112.6 stock