[DangerZL1]

Glad everything checked out OK. As a secondary check, you could change your oil and keep a sample to send off to Blackstone labs for analysis or wait until their free sample bottle arrives in the mail.

[SFV1LE]

If your dipstick reads full when cold, it will not read full after full warmup and sitting 5 minutes. You have to wait at least 30-60 minutes in my experience over last 2 years.

The exception to this is right after an oil change... for some reason the oil seems to settle in pan immediately soon after an oil change and will read full on stick right away, vs. even 500 miles later and prior to any oil consumption (it will take 30-60 minutes).

[ZX-10R]

Any boosted motor needs a catch can installed as mod #1 - they absolutely work in terms of reducing gas dilution of the oil (unless it's one of those cheap undersized cans with no baffling). As indicated above these engines run pig rich under boost plus there is always more blowby in a boosted motor, so the problem is compounded. Don't be lazy or paranoid about a warranty claim (it's easily removed with no "footprint"). The Elite can is proven to be effective

[Slurpee]

Originally Posted by SFV1LE

If your dipstick reads full when cold, it will not read full after full warmup and sitting 5 minutes. You have to wait at least 30-60 minutes in my experience over last 2 years.

The exception to this is right after an oil change... for some reason the oil seems to settle in pan immediately soon after an oil change and will read full on stick right away, vs. even 500 miles later and prior to any oil consumption (it will take 30-60 minutes).

Right, that’s why he recommended not measuring the oil when cold. Since it’s full when cold, I won’t be able to tell if it’s increasing or not. After warming up to operating temperatures, turning off, waiting 5 minutes, and then measuring it, it was measured half way at the dipstick. If levels increase using this method, then I need to take it in again.

[Slurpee]

Originally Posted by DangerZL1

Glad everything checked out OK. As a secondary check, you could change your oil and keep a sample to send off to Blackstone labs for analysis or wait until their free sample bottle arrives in the mail.

Season is coming to an end soon here, so I will just wait to do the full oil change in the spring, unless levels start to increase.

[Slurpee]

Originally Posted by ZX-10R

Any boosted motor needs a catch can installed as mod #1 - they absolutely work in terms of reducing gas dilution of the oil (unless it's one of those cheap undersized cans with no baffling). As indicated above these engines run pig rich under boost plus there is always more blowby in a boosted motor, so the problem is compounded. Don't be lazy or paranoid about a warranty claim (it's easily removed with no "footprint"). The Elite can is proven to be effective

I’ll look into it. I got a 7 year extended warranty (plan on keeping this car forever), so I plan on keeping it bone stock.

[ZX-10R]

Similar situation here (6 year warranty) but I'm running Elite can and coolant reservoir - these are "required" reliability upgrades imo

Plus I hate seeing oil sprayed all over the blower housing

[Russell James]

The real way to check it would have been to hook a scan tool to it - check fuel trims and O2 cross counts. Hook a fuel pressure gauge to the rail, measure pressure running and bleed down time after shut down.

That is how an actual technician would check a car if suspected fuel in oil. Is it running correctly by the fuel trim readings and are the injectors leaking? A hack would just smell the oil and scratch his head.... come back if it get's worse.

[LT4Greg]

Glad to hear that it’s good to go and you got it checked by the dealer. With 2100 miles the engine is really not broken in yet and with more miles the engine should perform better. That’s the way mine has done with almost 15,000 miles as the original owner put 422 miles on it before I bought it last year.

[Slurpee]

Originally Posted by Russell James

The real way to check it would have been to hook a scan tool to it - check fuel trims and O2 cross counts. Hook a fuel pressure gauge to the rail, measure pressure running and bleed down time after shut down.

That is how an actual technician would check a car if suspected fuel in oil. Is it running correctly by the fuel trim readings and are the injectors leaking? A hack would just smell the oil and scratch his head.... come back if it get's worse.

Here is what is exactly written on the service receipt:
"Inspected vehicle. Smell oil and smells normal. Had several other techs smell and various reviews. Oil level is halfway up hash after running and off for 5 min. If let sit longer when off goes to top of hash marks. Fuel trims normal and fuel pressure reading normal and no high side drop off at key off. No dtcs set. No bulletins for concern. Contacted TAC, case # --- advised to continue to monitor. oil level is good and would be higher, also fuel trims higher, if fuel was in oil. no problems found at this time."

[Alain]

Originally Posted by Slurpee

Season is coming to an end soon here, so I will just wait to do the full oil change in the spring, unless levels start to increase.

If you are going to put it away for the winter don't put it away with that dirty oil in the pan.

change the oil before putting it to sleep for the winter.

seems like they did a thorough check at the dealership........ surprised about that.

glad to hear everything seems fine.

[LT4Greg]

I can pretty much guarantee if an injector was failing a CEL light would have come on with a code or codes. I know because I had 2 injectors replaced under warranty in my 2016 SS and several codes popped up. The tech found the faulty ones on the first visit to the dealership.

[Slurpee]

Originally Posted by Alain

If you are going to put it away for the winter don't put it away with that dirty oil in the pan.

change the oil before putting it to sleep for the winter.

seems like they did a thorough check at the dealership........ surprised about that.

glad to hear everything seems fine.

I was going to trickle charge the battery and start it every two weeks and roll it around in the garage to prevent flat spots on the tires. My local mechanic advised to not jack the car up, he doesn't do it with his Viper either. Still change the oil before wintering the car?

Yeah like I said this dealer has a ZL1/Vette specialist, which is why I drive 36 miles to get there lol.

[Slurpee]

Originally Posted by LT4Greg

I can pretty much guarantee if an injector was failing a CEL light would have come on with a code or codes. I know because I had 2 injectors replaced under warranty in my 2016 SS and several codes popped up. The tech found the faulty ones on the first visit to the dealership.

Yeah, he said it could be two things. Leaky injector or high pressure fuel pump was leaking. My local mechanic said he's seen high pressure fuel pumps leak on GM GDI engines as well, but around 80k miles. Mechanic at the dealer suspected the high pressure fuel pump might be leaking since there was no CEL, since it leaks into the crankcase. But determined it wasn't, so all good to go, just going to keep an eye on it.