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Old 12-04-2018, 08:10 AM   #15
acammer
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Originally Posted by xc_SS/RS View Post
I did it and it's not difficult. But, I wouldn't bother in the future after seeing my original slave cylinder. I have no clue how anyone melts that support piece.
Lots and lots of us have. If you wanna cut really good 60' times, and don't want to thrash the rear and and axles using the bias ply tires and clutch dump method, then you leave on sticky drag radials and use the clutch like a torque converter, not a on/off switch. That creates tons of heat. My stock clutch is still holding up to the abuse with 35k on it, but my throw out bearing support melted and failed this summer.

I consider the clutch a wear item, just like tires and brakes. If you're using the car hard, you're gonna wear it out.

My opinion would be that if the trans comes out for any reason, it should go back in with a billet throwout bearing support and a remote speed bleeder for the clutch hydraulics.
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Old 12-04-2018, 09:09 AM   #16
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My opinion would be that if the trans comes out for any reason, it should go back in with a billet throwout bearing support and a remote speed bleeder for the clutch hydraulics.
Amen brother!!
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Old 12-04-2018, 09:40 AM   #17
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My opinion would be that if the trans comes out for any reason, it should go back in with a billet throwout bearing support and a remote speed bleeder for the clutch hydraulics.
Amen brother!!
Yes Indeed. Also never understood why they couldn’t just put the Shaft Support Bearing in there.Yeah to save $ and it is more the capable of handling a few Mods but when you start pushing it, there is another Weak Link.
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Old 12-04-2018, 04:58 PM   #18
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So is this a mod you would recommend? I have been thinking about doing it.
Definitely would recommend it! It makes driving spiritedly very fun and i can tell that it takes less efffort to rev the motor
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Old 12-04-2018, 05:58 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by acammer View Post
Lots and lots of us have. If you wanna cut really good 60' times, and don't want to thrash the rear and and axles using the bias ply tires and clutch dump method, then you leave on sticky drag radials and use the clutch like a torque converter, not a on/off switch. That creates tons of heat. My stock clutch is still holding up to the abuse with 35k on it, but my throw out bearing support melted and failed this summer.

I consider the clutch a wear item, just like tires and brakes. If you're using the car hard, you're gonna wear it out.

My opinion would be that if the trans comes out for any reason, it should go back in with a billet throwout bearing support and a remote speed bleeder for the clutch hydraulics.
A clutch is a wear item. There is a reason why it’s not covered under warranty.

I don’t agree about the metal support piece and I guess I’m just not a hardcore enough racer since I didn’t melt the bearing support. I only bought it and installed it because I thought that is what failed. I still think most people will not benefit from using one. My clutch looked great with 83k miles on it and the support piece looked great as well. The rest of the slave failed. I do agree with you about the remote bleeder.

More power to ya if you melt it!
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Old 01-02-2019, 01:57 PM   #20
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yeah im gonna be in the market for a new clutch next month. this is very good info to keep in mind
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Old 01-02-2019, 02:08 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by xc_SS/RS View Post
A clutch is a wear item. There is a reason why it’s not covered under warranty.

I don’t agree about the metal support piece and I guess I’m just not a hardcore enough racer since I didn’t melt the bearing support. I only bought it and installed it because I thought that is what failed. I still think most people will not benefit from using one. My clutch looked great with 83k miles on it and the support piece looked great as well. The rest of the slave failed. I do agree with you about the remote bleeder.

More power to ya if you melt it!
We can certainly agree to disagree - everybody uses them different and has different experiences, and each person should decide individually how likely they are to have that part fail. After seeing how mine looked when I pulled it apart, I know I would never run the stock plastic again knowing that I race the car often and hard, and at times put plenty of heat into my clutch.

If you use your car primarily as a daily driver and it rarely gets launched, then the stock piece would likely hold up just fine - plenty of them have. Would I have replaced it if it had not failed in the first place - I'm not sure. But having been there and now having taken the time to research and investigate, it's definitely a "strongly consider" item for an M6 car that gets hard launches.
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Old 01-03-2019, 04:53 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by xc_SS/RS View Post
parts:
clutch kit: $270.57 shipped from RockAuto
flywheel: $410 shipped from Amazon
hardware: $59.97 shipped from Summit
Tick Performance parts: $140.43 shipped

total: 880.97

install: $728 and it may have been less if i shopped around but with the slave failing i didn't really have time or the option to do so. however, i will say steer clear of the dealerships. my local dealer wanted $1,300 for the install

so all in 1,608.97. now that i know the bearing support was fine and not melted i would skip the tick bearing support next time... and i really want to know how people melt them lol

Not to create contention but just give people more options:

I went with a Monster LT1-S clutch/flywheel, new slave cylinder with billet release, tick remote bleeder and install for a total of $2047 (install was $503).
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Old 01-03-2019, 07:08 AM   #23
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From Monster:
"We have seen these supports fail on anything from, heavily modified track cars to bone stock cars that are weekend cruisers.

The problem is not only heat, but when you combine heat with varied tolerances of a plastic bearing support. Also you add in the pressure that the bearing experiences, constantly riding on the pressure plate fingers, and actuating against the pressure plate spring.

It's a lot to ask of plastic.

Like you said "If a cheaper part will do the job then it goes in."

Imho Billet Support is Cheap Insurance.
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Old 01-03-2019, 08:13 AM   #24
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It's a lot to ask of plastic.
Best way to sum it up. And that's pretty much what mine looked like. I felt it fail in my foot too, it first went about half way down in a nasty crunch/smoosh motion, then a few clutch presses later it let go the rest of the way, over-traveled the slave, and puked a little hydro fluid out the bell-housing. I'm looking forward to not repeating that.
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Old 01-03-2019, 03:43 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by zlathim View Post
Amen brother!!
And I'm going to sign it under.


In my opinion, a big tailback on a hot summer day is suffice
You will slowly travel for a few hours until the clutch stops working.

And then it's time to say Yeah!!! I saved $ 80
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Old 01-20-2019, 07:11 PM   #26
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I think my throwout bearing needs to be replaced. With the LS7 clutch kit, is a throwout bearing included in that? I can’t engage my clutch either so I believe my master cylinder is shot as well. I was thinking of doing this set-up. I am not mechanically inclined and am only learning as I read through this forum.
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Old 01-20-2019, 07:57 PM   #27
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I think my throwout bearing needs to be replaced. With the LS7 clutch kit, is a throwout bearing included in that? I can’t engage my clutch either so I believe my master cylinder is shot as well. I was thinking of doing this set-up. I am not mechanically inclined and am only learning as I read through this forum.
The kit I bought comes with the slave/throw out bearing.

Give the flywheel a shot. I don't think you'll be disappointed
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Old 01-20-2019, 08:17 PM   #28
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I'm still not convinced you need the support piece. I slipped the clutch on two different occasions to the point where I didn't think I would get the car home. I regularly experienced the sinking pedal on WOT runs. It was almost second nature to shift and then stick my foot under the clutch pedal to pick it up with my toes. So I've had my fair share of clutch issues in the time I've owned the car.

Believe me, I understand the whole 'if you're in there' logic. I just don't see the point for 90% of the Camaro owners out there who don't regularly track their cars.

If you drag race or track it often, go for it. Otherwise, I'm sure you could use the money for gas.

Please take it to another thread if you want to discuss it more.
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