I think I broke my A/C - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

jbassking · 04-19-2018, 06:31 PM

I just did a cam swap and now my AC compressor won’t come on. The clutch doesn’t engage. The light inside shows the AC is switched on.

I didn’t remove the condenser or compressor when I did the cam.

I checked the clutch fuse under the hood and it looks good. I also swapped the relay and that didn’t work.

Any ideas?

christianchevell · 04-19-2018, 07:02 PM

usually they are moved to the side carefully and possibly the lines drained and the car needing a recharge from accessing the front of the engine. I would disconnect the electrical terminals of the wiring harness and reconnect checking all the pins and making sure its connected well.

That would be to look for a short, other problems with a ac compressor would require electrical troubleshooting and possibly could be accessed online and requires purchase of a volti-meter. New compressors/condensers I know can be found online, I would first look for the part number via someplace like gmpartsdirect.com or reputable places to see the amount they charge and go from there if I had to replace it.

It could have just gotten dinged wrenching with the headers going in most cars you want to be careful with wiring, even when doing a cam: bending stretching or cutting of wiring harnesses and wiring can unplug connectors ;bend prongs; pull wires loose, and short them. A good shop should be able to check your condenser quick , good luck hopefully your lines did not get pinched.... Just a few thoughts off the top of my head from stories past with fried o2 wires and fried this and that. Like checking the A/C charge also.....

jbassking · 04-19-2018, 07:19 PM

I hooked up a volt meter to the plug and it's reading 12 volts when it's running. The A/C switch inside the car is turning the power on and off.

jbassking · 04-19-2018, 09:06 PM

Does the compressor itself have the ability to turn on and off or is it just the PCM that controls it?

Spurshot · 04-19-2018, 09:19 PM

I have my own ac tools and do all my repairs over the years, but I’m not a professional ac tech. My knowledge is limited to my reading and fixing my own cars. So, take my advice with a grain...

Gm ac typically has a high pressure switch and a low pressure switch. The high switch is between the compressor outlet and condenser or the condenser and evaporator (firewall). There is a low side switch on the line between the evaporator and the compressor. Make sure they both are connected. After that, I’d put gauges on the system to check the charge. Moving the components around flexes hoses that may cause leaks.

Now is your big opportunity to learn ac repair and save thousands over the years. Your first tool should be a good book on automotive ac. After that, a good brand name set of gauges and a can tap. I recommend Robinaire or Mastercool. Next you’ll want a vacuum pump. Avoid Chinese or no-name tools for ac.

jbassking · 04-19-2018, 09:56 PM

Wouldn't those switches prevent the plug at the compressor from getting power?

Spurshot · 04-19-2018, 11:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jbassking

Wouldn't those switches prevent the plug at the compressor from getting power?

They can. They are intended to switch the compressor on and off and protect over pressure. If you jump the low pressure switch it will trigger the circuit to engage the clutch. If you put gauges on the system with the clutch jumped, you should see normal operating pressures. If the pressures are still low or zero, the system is low on refrigerant.

craigd853 · 04-20-2018, 11:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jbassking

I hooked up a volt meter to the plug and it's reading 12 volts when it's running. The A/C switch inside the car is turning the power on and off.

Hello,
You said you had 12 volts to the compressor pin when you used your voltmeter. If this is the case then the pressure sensors are working correctly, if the sensor was reading a low charge you would not have 12 volts to the compressor. Sounds like it might be the compressor clutch. The 12 volts coming into your compressor magnetizes the plate behind the clutch there by engaging the the compressor. You can also take jumper leads and disconnect the pin to the compressor and apply 12 volts that way and if the compressor engages you know you have a problem with the pin or where it plugs into the compressor. If 12 volts is applied to the compressor using jump wires and it does not engage then clutch is bad. Hope this helps

Buckeye · 04-24-2018, 05:59 PM

Is the AC fan coming on when the AC light comes on inside the cabin? Not sure how GM works, but on my Honda the AC fan went out and I had the same symptom you are currently having. Check the AC fan fuse. Mine was blown and the new fuse blew instantly. The AC fan was pulling too much current and had to be replaced. New fan went in and AC started working as usual.

jbassking · 06-16-2018, 05:57 PM

So... I finally bought a new compressor. I took out the old one and figured I should double check that the clutch isn't engaging so I put 12 volts to it. The first few times nothing happened and then BAM it engaged. Now every time I put power to it, the clutch engages.
I have a couple of questions before I reassemble this thing.

1. Is there a way to test the high pressure switch/sensor? I wanted to triple check that the plug going into the compressor has 12 volts but I can't now that the system is empty.
2. How do I know how much oil to put in the compressor?

Thanks!

04-19-2018, 06:31 PM	#1
jbassking Drives: 2012 SS Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: Lake Worth, FL Posts: 99	I think I broke my A/C I just did a cam swap and now my AC compressor won’t come on. The clutch doesn’t engage. The light inside shows the AC is switched on. I didn’t remove the condenser or compressor when I did the cam. I checked the clutch fuse under the hood and it looks good. I also swapped the relay and that didn’t work. Any ideas? Last edited by jbassking; 04-19-2018 at 06:54 PM.

04-19-2018, 07:02 PM	#2
christianchevell old school chevy rodder Drives: 2013 2SS/RS Manual,DM exhaust,CRT Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Oregon Posts: 5,587 View My Garage	usually they are moved to the side carefully and possibly the lines drained and the car needing a recharge from accessing the front of the engine. I would disconnect the electrical terminals of the wiring harness and reconnect checking all the pins and making sure its connected well. That would be to look for a short, other problems with a ac compressor would require electrical troubleshooting and possibly could be accessed online and requires purchase of a volti-meter. New compressors/condensers I know can be found online, I would first look for the part number via someplace like gmpartsdirect.com or reputable places to see the amount they charge and go from there if I had to replace it. It could have just gotten dinged wrenching with the headers going in most cars you want to be careful with wiring, even when doing a cam: bending stretching or cutting of wiring harnesses and wiring can unplug connectors ;bend prongs; pull wires loose, and short them. A good shop should be able to check your condenser quick , good luck hopefully your lines did not get pinched.... Just a few thoughts off the top of my head from stories past with fried o2 wires and fried this and that. Like checking the A/C charge also..... __________________ 2021 Wild Cherry ZL1 A10, Sunroof, Data, Carbon, Nav, RotoFab Dry CAI, Elite x2, Borla ATK, Driveshaft shop

04-19-2018, 09:19 PM	#5
Spurshot Drives: 2014 2SS blue Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Socal Posts: 689	I have my own ac tools and do all my repairs over the years, but I’m not a professional ac tech. My knowledge is limited to my reading and fixing my own cars. So, take my advice with a grain... Gm ac typically has a high pressure switch and a low pressure switch. The high switch is between the compressor outlet and condenser or the condenser and evaporator (firewall). There is a low side switch on the line between the evaporator and the compressor. Make sure they both are connected. After that, I’d put gauges on the system to check the charge. Moving the components around flexes hoses that may cause leaks. Now is your big opportunity to learn ac repair and save thousands over the years. Your first tool should be a good book on automotive ac. After that, a good brand name set of gauges and a can tap. I recommend Robinaire or Mastercool. Next you’ll want a vacuum pump. Avoid Chinese or no-name tools for ac. __________________ Last edited by Spurshot; 04-19-2018 at 09:33 PM.

04-24-2018, 05:59 PM	#9
Buckeye Buckeye Drives: 2013 2SS RS 1LE Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Tucson Posts: 272	Is the AC fan coming on when the AC light comes on inside the cabin? Not sure how GM works, but on my Honda the AC fan went out and I had the same symptom you are currently having. Check the AC fan fuse. Mine was blown and the new fuse blew instantly. The AC fan was pulling too much current and had to be replaced. New fan went in and AC started working as usual. __________________

04-19-2018, 07:19 PM	#3
jbassking Drives: 2012 SS Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: Lake Worth, FL Posts: 99	I hooked up a volt meter to the plug and it's reading 12 volts when it's running. The A/C switch inside the car is turning the power on and off.

04-19-2018, 09:06 PM	#4
jbassking Drives: 2012 SS Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: Lake Worth, FL Posts: 99	Does the compressor itself have the ability to turn on and off or is it just the PCM that controls it?

04-19-2018, 09:56 PM	#6
jbassking Drives: 2012 SS Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: Lake Worth, FL Posts: 99	Wouldn't those switches prevent the plug at the compressor from getting power?

06-16-2018, 05:57 PM	#10
jbassking Drives: 2012 SS Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: Lake Worth, FL Posts: 99	So... I finally bought a new compressor. I took out the old one and figured I should double check that the clutch isn't engaging so I put 12 volts to it. The first few times nothing happened and then BAM it engaged. Now every time I put power to it, the clutch engages. I have a couple of questions before I reassemble this thing. 1. Is there a way to test the high pressure switch/sensor? I wanted to triple check that the plug going into the compressor has 12 volts but I can't now that the system is empty. 2. How do I know how much oil to put in the compressor? Thanks!