Few questions about the LS3

[ArmyEOD17]

Hey guys,

So I don't have too much longer left here in Germany and I am currently in the process of selling my 2LT/RS so that when I get back stateside I can finally get an SS

I had a few questions reguarding the LS3 that I would just like to get cleared up since after searching I haven't found exact answers.

Crankshaft
I was planning at one point to upgrade to a mild cam, probably Comp stage 2, now while I am having that installed I was also going to do forged internals. The plan was already pushrods, rockers, and springs. But as far as the crankshaft goes how many horse power can those usually take before you want to replace them? My whole plan is to build up the engine so that it will push a lot of power but also I wont have to worry about over exerting it.

Fuel Pump
I've heard the fuel pumps are good up until about 600+ hp whether that is to the wheels or what I have not found, could anyone give me a more in depth answer because I don't want the engine to be fighting to get enough fuel.

I know all of these questions are way far in advanced but I just like knowing every little detail and step to my plans before executing them!

Any help would be great guys I really appreciate it and love reading through your guys threads

-Aaron

[CamaroDreams76]

I hear that 14 and up have the ZL1 fuel pump and is good to about 650 and there mods out there to give it a little more like the KB boost-a-pump.

The cranks of the LS3 are powder forged and are good for about a 600whp DD. A lot of FI people on here are running 700+whp on the stock bottom end. The record power level for a stock bottom end is a little over 1000whp. LS3 bottom ends are pretty solid

[christianchevell]

read my mods in my signature.....your mild cam will most likely not net you the same numbers as my most radical of cams...yet I have forgone until down the road changing the timing chain to a k5r, and doing the oil pump as the stock chain is a single roller and fine for a long time along with the stock pump. I do have a ls2 timing chain dampener waiting for when I change those out when I have the money, and then plan to have my springs checked out every 25 thousand miles or so....
The stock rockers are roller rockers and fine yet many believe there is a problem with them as the first ls7 engines had trunion problems for one year. That would be the first year they made the ls7...the 427. I had mine dyno h.p. software tuned. And I broke in my cam with driven racing br30 and use ls30, and the heads flow well for 600 + h.p. stock yet many work them to try to get more when the net gains of the cnc or hand porting is like 20 h.p. for 2 thousand not very cost effective.... and then you do not want to have the heads give higher compression by having a shaved head deck from stock or you open a big spendy can of worms as in can this can fit with these heads or do I need to flycut the pistons....what about custom length pushrods for the new geometry angle.... Things like this are best answered by the head manufacturer beforehand or just port your own heads and be aware that the geometry is the same.
For your mild build nothing should have to be done to the bottom end, for piece of mind if you want to change out the oil pump with the cam it will cost you more to drop the pan and do it on top of the cost of the install... as IN my case I bought everything including fluids gaskets, 7.375 hardened pushrods recommended by my builder, cam and .675 springs, headers and high flow cats, three bolt timing gear, harmonic balancer bolt , new belts etc....... and with install and dyno tune came out around $4500. parts are just part of the equation, finding the right g.m. guru who is good is the most important who can do a good job working over your stock ECU programming to limit torque management, adjust the air fuel tables for antiknock and timing etc..... and for sure to never let the engine go lean. I am at 550 flywheel and do not worry as my builder said I had plenty left on my stock pumps duty cycle to handle it..if I ever go higher a boosta pump may help and better injectors if needed... but I want to stay Naturally Aspirated and still am waiting for vararam to come out with this crossram intake.....lol then maybe I can push 600 to the flywheel.
What you should worry about is when you get the power to the ground having a upgraded suspension to handle it not just break the rear end. and a LPW diff cover is a good place to start along with some new trailing arms and toe links with poly bushings. Good luck to do the timing chain and oil pump change the builder wanted $500 more for somethings I do not really need maybe ever...... the ls2 dampener is better than the ls3 though for durability for sure in my opinion. And I used br30 driven racing oil for break in and use ls30 now...their site has tech articles to explain why their oil is so good as its made just for high performance ls3 engines........

[1KillerSS]

I think there is also a guy running 1000+ at the wheels. My question is for how long will it hold it?

[ArmyEOD17]

Awesome guys I really appreciate the help!!