Here is a complete how to DIY for subframe / cradle bushing removal - Page 3 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Level300 · 07-23-2020, 11:13 PM

I finished my solid bushings last week and I wanted to thank the OP. I did mine in conjunction with a front and rear z28 suspension upgrade.

The front bushings were so easy. I struggled with the back a little bit. But a lot of that was from a solid 2.5 days of wrenching under the car. I was exhausted and it was very hot out.

Some tips:
Definitely freeze them. I put mine in the freezer overnight.
Apply grease or anti seize to make them slide easier when you're about to install them.
After pressing out the bushing, run your hand inside the cylinder (when it's COOL) and feel for any melted bushing.
Get a fan to blow away the smoke from heating the bushing or get a mask. That smoke can't be good for you.

1. Pushing the rear bushing out - Disconnect the rear sway bar at the end links, they get in the way when the bushing is being pushed out from the top.
2. Putting in the top rear bushing in - Put a jack under the diff to support the cradle, unbolt all 4 bolts and lower until it's resting on the exhaust pipes (NPP). Lower the jack saddle so it's about 4 inches away from the diff.
3. Take the handle end of your breaker bar and put it in the cradle slot that's near the rear bushing cylinder. Its a rectangular hole and it should slide right in. Lever up and down until you can make enough room to slide the top bushing in there. Make sure the jack saddle isn't limiting movement. You will need to remove all 4 bolts to get enough articulation...at least I had to. There was no way in hell I could get that top rear bushing in there without doing that. The exhaust hangers will stretch enough to allow you to slide the top bushing in there.
4. After you get the tops in place (but not pressed in yet), install the 2 front bushing bolts about 1/2 way. This helps keeps the cradle in alignment as you are pressing in the top busing. This was more of a precautionary measure. I didn't want to risk something going sideways as I was pressing in the bushing.

Thanks again OP!

Lnch Mny · 06-06-2021, 08:37 PM

So great write up for getting the old OEM out.
But getting the new in has not been smooth. I had them in the freezer but it didn’t seem to make a difference. Is the key hole prep? I broke the big pieces of plastic off, I don’t think I would call it smooth though.
I got the solid mount about maybe half way in. Should I just keep tightening the bolt and let it pull the bushing in place?
Any other tips out there. Thanks!

olblue75 · 06-06-2021, 11:34 PM

What kind of bushings are you using?

Lnch Mny · 06-07-2021, 04:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by olblue75

What kind of bushings are you using?

Detroit Speed solid bushings.

06-06-2021, 11:34 PM	#31
olblue75 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Clarksville Tennesse. Posts: 6,062	What kind of bushings are you using? __________________ Orange Krush II 1LE Front sway bar, Splitter, shocks and struts, Z28 dual mode mufflers, Intake, UCA Bushings, and Toresen 3.91 Diff. 1 piece DSS Drive Shaft, ZL1/C7 Calipers, and 32mm JPSS Rear Bar. ASC race spec splitter and wicker. 6th Gen M017 Wheels. Stainless Works 1 7/8 LTs. DSE and PAFDT Suspension components.

07-23-2020, 11:13 PM	#29
Level300 Drives: 2015 Black rs/ss/1le Join Date: Apr 2018 Location: PA Posts: 271	I finished my solid bushings last week and I wanted to thank the OP. I did mine in conjunction with a front and rear z28 suspension upgrade. The front bushings were so easy. I struggled with the back a little bit. But a lot of that was from a solid 2.5 days of wrenching under the car. I was exhausted and it was very hot out. Some tips: Definitely freeze them. I put mine in the freezer overnight. Apply grease or anti seize to make them slide easier when you're about to install them. After pressing out the bushing, run your hand inside the cylinder (when it's COOL) and feel for any melted bushing. Get a fan to blow away the smoke from heating the bushing or get a mask. That smoke can't be good for you. 1. Pushing the rear bushing out - Disconnect the rear sway bar at the end links, they get in the way when the bushing is being pushed out from the top. 2. Putting in the top rear bushing in - Put a jack under the diff to support the cradle, unbolt all 4 bolts and lower until it's resting on the exhaust pipes (NPP). Lower the jack saddle so it's about 4 inches away from the diff. 3. Take the handle end of your breaker bar and put it in the cradle slot that's near the rear bushing cylinder. Its a rectangular hole and it should slide right in. Lever up and down until you can make enough room to slide the top bushing in there. Make sure the jack saddle isn't limiting movement. You will need to remove all 4 bolts to get enough articulation...at least I had to. There was no way in hell I could get that top rear bushing in there without doing that. The exhaust hangers will stretch enough to allow you to slide the top bushing in there. 4. After you get the tops in place (but not pressed in yet), install the 2 front bushing bolts about 1/2 way. This helps keeps the cradle in alignment as you are pressing in the top busing. This was more of a precautionary measure. I didn't want to risk something going sideways as I was pressing in the bushing. Thanks again OP!

06-06-2021, 08:37 PM	#30
Lnch Mny Drives: IBM Camaro Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Decatur, IL Posts: 266 View My Garage	So great write up for getting the old OEM out. But getting the new in has not been smooth. I had them in the freezer but it didn’t seem to make a difference. Is the key hole prep? I broke the big pieces of plastic off, I don’t think I would call it smooth though. I got the solid mount about maybe half way in. Should I just keep tightening the bolt and let it pull the bushing in place? Any other tips out there. Thanks!