Camaro is getting Multiple codes

[DJ_BigC]

Nah, I don’t think the ECU would be the culprit for this one.

Every one of your deactivation cylinders is setting a DTC. Unfortunately the valley plate/solenoids did not correct this.. 9/10 times it does haha your the odd man out this time. I was mixed up with the new engines we have that can deactivate 7 of 8 cylinders when i said only certain AFM cylinders are setting DTC’s. Any chance you can tell me which DTC’s are failed and current that way I can isolate this issue a bit more for you.

[lawdog]

Originally Posted by DJ_BigC

Checking the battery’s state of health and condition is very different from the suggestion above that clearly states to replace the battery and inspect grounds. A failing battery or loose improper connections does not cause AFM/DOD issues for certain cylinders and cause nothing else but one low voltage, ignition switch DTC. If you have 1 low voltage DTC that is passed history vs several failed current DTC’s that are evidently the reason why the car is running rough you start with the failed current DTC’s and work you way down the list.

I’ve been doing this long enough for GM to tell you that I know their diagnostic flow charts/symptoms and DTC’s for battery/voltage related issues and this vehicle is definitely not exhibiting these conditions even if i’m reading this on a message board.

HAHA cmon Seriously Dude , WHY SO SERIOUS ?! LOL Change the battery and check the grounds, LOL
you know as well that not all battery issues are revealed in checking the battery state of health. AND BATTERIES ARE CHEAP ! very often problem cells are erratic in their detection, hence take the Old Battery and dump it, because its going to be toast soon anyways. When you dealing with voltage you don't have to be a rocket scientist to insure your baseline is correct. I would not waste a minute going through all the tests without knowing my baseline is correct and that means battery and grounds. I have seen alot of so called mechanics waste a boatload of time and money trying to track down a problem that all lead back to just a bad battery or Ground and I have seen alot of erratic ground problems as well. Theres nothing wrong with suggesting to start there FIRST.

[DJ_BigC]

I’m not serious what so ever. I’ve been properly trained on GM products for upwards of 10yrs now. I’m a diesel, trans, electrical service tech at a fairly large successful GM dealership and i’m confident that I can help the OP out with his condition.

Vehicles nowadays are very sensitive and rely on proper battery voltages to operate correctly. While I do agree with parts of your reply I cannot agree with your answer entirely because vehicles are also far more sophisticated now then ever before. I have very very very rarely, if ever actually seen a vehicle with a “bad battery cell” or an on the way out battery cause a permanent failed current DTC that causes a running vehicle to set current DTC’s for a mechanical components condition, bad wire yes.. weather it’s a power or ground or a data circuit anything is possible but a bad battery no, we have equipment on hand at all times to maintain proper battery voltage while we diagnose a vehicle in order to prevent misdiagnosing a condition. I have seen vehicles with a bad battery not start.. slow to crank, set ghost codes/trouble lights at start up.. set multiple low voltage DTC’s etc.. but never seen a weak battery cause a condition with the EVAP system for example. Your way of looking at a vehicles electrical/charging system was accurate in the 90’s but not all of this information translates to the “new school” style vehicle. Day in day out i see do it yourself customers waste money on trial and error replacement parts to try and save diagnostic costs, it’s frustrating to see a customer spend 500$ without batting an eyelash on parts they don’t need to replace because they are doing at home/internet diagnostics and repairs or a buddy told them to change this but then they will complain when we give them a 200$ estimate to repair some broken wires we found to actually fix the problem. This isn’t always the case.. but once again vehicles are now very sophisticated and require special tools.. diagnostic equipment and some product knowledge to diagnose and run tests in order to properly fix your them.

I teach training courses/classes at a GM training center half a dozen times per year. If you have any questions about our products send me a PM and i would gladly enjoy discussing things with you.

[Icesilvercamaro]

Hello did you find out what the problem was I’m having the exact same issues, same codes Same everything

[1JEWLDSSRS]

Originally Posted by Icesilvercamaro

Hello did you find out what the problem was I’m having the exact same issues, same codes Same everything

Hello, this thread is almost 4 years old now and I'm guessing that either he figured it out and forgot to let us know, or just got tired of it and sold the car, which is what some folks do when they have too many problems and no time or patience to fix them. My suggestion is to get in touch with a really good knowlegable forum member we have on here, NOT A 45, he is a certified GM tech and owns and works on these cars everyday at his dealership. He has helped out countless forum members on their issues, maybe he could help you out. Good luck sir!!

[Mouse330]

Originally Posted by Icesilvercamaro

Hello did you find out what the problem was I’m having the exact same issues, same codes Same everything

Check the 7.5 amp F14 fuse in the under hood fuse block. Is it blown? If it is put a fuse in and see what happens, This would cause all these codes. Its the power side to the MAF, intake air temp sensor, VLOM(Valve Lifter Oil Manifold), Fuel pump control module. Pink wire circuit 239 most likely shorted. Or one of the components, modules, Good luck.