9" kit vs driveshaft and axles?

[Driveshaftshop]

If you have a Auto trans and want to keep the stock rear you might want to think about a Carbon Fiber Driveshaft, the carbon shaft is more torsional and will save the diff from shock factors of a hard launch. it will also be less prone to harmonic vibrations.

(click here for our websites listing of the shaft)

[Driveshaftshop]

also if you purchase our parts we give a generous trade in value if you get to the point you need the 9" kit (we also give forum discounts)

[Darth_Emma]

Originally Posted by Driveshaftshop

If you have a Auto trans and want to keep the stock rear you might want to think about a Carbon Fiber Driveshaft, the carbon shaft is more torsional and will save the diff from shock factors of a hard launch. it will also be less prone to harmonic vibrations.

(click here for our websites listing of the shaft)

I do have an automatic. Also, what do you mean by "more torsional?" I know torsion means "twisting." Do you mean that CF is more elastic and will absorb more of the shock?

Have any of these carbon fiber driveshafts ever broken or become deformed?

(I'm totally new to this stuff. You should have seen all the questions I asked before I bought my maggie!)

[Driveshaftshop]

yes, the tube will twist more than other materials and this will not only reduce the shock factor on the diff but it also makes the car nicer to drive as its quieter and smoother. like all out shaft its balanced on our new 9500rpm balancer


(click here for info)

[BVaughan77]

Yeah that was me unfortunately... I broke my diff from WHEEL HOP not from my power or torque. I have 460 RWHP and 400 RWTQ from an LS3 M6. The stock diff can handle alot more than what I make if you protect it from wheel hop. I did that back when I had zero suspension mods. If you are planning on driving your car hard then trailing arms and toe rods are a must. I am saving up for them and a built JRE diff with 3.90 gears now.

Originally Posted by Darth_Emma

All excellent points and you're correct that I don't really beat up my car all the time. But, it only takes beating it up once to break something.

One guy in these forums, who goes to the same shop I do, had the shop install header and exhaust on his car and he had them tune it. He said he couldn't wait to go out and do burnouts the very day he got it back from the shop. He sent me a note the next morning that he had trashed the differential in his car and had to have it towed back to the shop that night. He needed a new differential. (BTW, he has an LS3).

I am trying to avoid be stranded in my car, and, more importantly, I don't want to be afraid to use the power I've paid so much to gain. On the other hand, I don't want to throw money away on things that won't do me any good.

I know there is no magic answer, but I appreciate hearing from you smart folks who have way more experience than I do with muscle cars.

[Hendrix-Engineering]

I would do the 9 inch if you could swing it,youll never stop adding power lol. I have a one piece shaft and a set of axles that a took in trade for a 9 inch that has less than 100 miles on them if your intrested.

[fastkevman]

I have a 1-piece DSS aluminum shaft in my LS3, I wanted it to see if it would eliminate the "slop" in the drivetrain, especially in stop-and-go traffic.
The "slop" is 90% gone which is great and the car seems more responsive off the line but, it does vibrate.
The vibration starts at around 85mph, it's definitely the shaft, I've swapped the stock one back in and the vibration went away.
I do run with Pfadt rear diff bushings so if you have stock or aftermarket bushings that are softer than Pfadt's you may not notice any vibrations with a 1-piece.

[Driveshaftshop]

We have sold over 300 shafts for the Camaro and not heard of the shaft causing any issues, have you contacted the office or had the shaft checked out. I'm sure there must be an issue that can be remedied.

[Squintz Palladoris]

Originally Posted by fastkevman

I have a 1-piece DSS aluminum shaft in my LS3, I wanted it to see if it would eliminate the "slop" in the drivetrain, especially in stop-and-go traffic.
The "slop" is 90% gone which is great and the car seems more responsive off the line but, it does vibrate.
The vibration starts at around 85mph, it's definitely the shaft, I've swapped the stock one back in and the vibration went away.
I do run with Pfadt rear diff bushings so if you have stock or aftermarket bushings that are softer than Pfadt's you may not notice any vibrations with a 1-piece.

No vibration here and I have solid Cradle bushings and Poly diff bushings. Give Frank a call he will definately help you remedy the problem.