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Old 01-01-2014, 05:11 PM   #15
bumblebeecamaro
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I bought these lights w/o doing my research first and soon afterwords I regretted making the purchase after seeing all these nightmare stories. I then sold my lights that were working 100% fine mainly because I knew it was only a matter of time before I'd start having problems as well.
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Old 01-01-2014, 05:15 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by bumblebeecamaro View Post
I bought these lights w/o doing my research first and soon afterwords I regretted making the purchase after seeing all these nightmare stories. I then sold my lights that were working 100% fine mainly because I knew it was only a matter of time before I'd start having problems as well.
sorry dude,

But you have to remember, that on forums, people tend to report their problems, and not hold hands and rejoice of success! I'm not defending them, I hold allegiance to no one, but I like to keep it real.

That said, a true poll would need to be conducted first, before jumping to any conclusion of owner satisfaction rates.
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Old 01-01-2014, 06:44 PM   #17
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Out of curiosity, what did their technical support team tell you over the phone?
I'm assuming of course that this was done already.

Check battery voltage on vehicle 24-48 hours after sitting. These lights hate low voltage, and need a "reset" by pulling the pink wire off the battery for a couple of minutes if the case.

Check your ground connection as well, this can't be over emphasized.

Worst case scenario is water intrusion causing a short. Let's hope it's not that.
Tech support wasn't available yesterday. Their office was closed, so have to call tmw and get an answer on the issue. Just hoping they are there so I can get this figured out. Battery voltage shouldn't be an issue with vehicle with it being a daily driver. But I did disconnect the battery to 'reset' the micro in the lights. So it's safe to say that it is a problem with the light itself. As for water intrusion highly doubt that is the case, if it was water intrusion it should affect the whole unit as a whole if that was the case and not just the sequential signal.
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Old 01-02-2014, 12:58 PM   #18
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Tech support wasn't available yesterday. Their office was closed, so have to call tmw and get an answer on the issue. Just hoping they are there so I can get this figured out. Battery voltage shouldn't be an issue with vehicle with it being a daily driver. But I did disconnect the battery to 'reset' the micro in the lights. So it's safe to say that it is a problem with the light itself. As for water intrusion highly doubt that is the case, if it was water intrusion it should affect the whole unit as a whole if that was the case and not just the sequential signal.
Keep us updated on how you make out getting a new light. Good luck !
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Old 01-02-2014, 01:12 PM   #19
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Mine did the exact same thing last month. The resistors all had at least 6 ohms on my meter. I had ordered some resistors on eBay to add LEDs turn signals to the fronts but I changed my mind. So I installed the two new resistors just to try and see if that solved the hyper flashing. It did solve the hyper flashing and they work normal now.


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Old 01-02-2014, 01:36 PM   #20
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Mine did the exact same thing last month. The resistors all had at least 6 ohms on my meter. I had ordered some resistors on eBay to add LEDs turn signals to the fronts but I changed my mind. So I installed the two new resistors just to try and see if that solved the hyper flashing. It did solve the hyper flashing and they work normal now.


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Good to know. What resistors did you order and how did you connect them?
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Old 01-02-2014, 05:26 PM   #21
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So I did speak to Todd today from Technostalgia. Explained the problem and he insists it's the resistor bank that is the issue, even though it's reading perfectly. So I guess with that, and with the confirmation above, that must be the issue why? Not sure but going to try that I guess. Cheapest option of the bunch to be honest. If it doesn't work, these lights are getting replaced back with the stock OEM ones. Todd also said I should get the 6 Ohm, 50W resistors instead of 7 Ohm, so I trust his judgement and will go that route and see. Hopefully the resistors are the actual bud of the problem and the replacements work and do the job!

Time to wait and see .......
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Old 01-02-2014, 05:49 PM   #22
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As far as I know, those are wire wound resistors in a aluminum heat sink housing. They can be perfectly fine when measured with a ohm Meter. As soon as you apply voltage to them they can open up and have no continuity, therefor no resistance to ground and will be detected by the BCM and signals a burned out light. 6 or 7 Ohms does not make a big difference, 2 amps on 6 Ohms or 1.71 amps on 7 Ohms. The 3157K bulb for the brake and running lights have 26/8 Watts, so, using a 6 Ohm resistor is as close as you can get to mimic the current draw of the light bulb.
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Old 01-02-2014, 05:52 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MR.Sarge View Post
So I did speak to Todd today from Technostalgia. Explained the problem and he insists it's the resistor bank that is the issue, even though it's reading perfectly. So I guess with that, and with the confirmation above, that must be the issue why? Not sure but going to try that I guess. Cheapest option of the bunch to be honest. If it doesn't work, these lights are getting replaced back with the stock OEM ones. Todd also said I should get the 6 Ohm, 50W resistors instead of 7 Ohm, so I trust his judgement and will go that route and see. Hopefully the resistors are the actual bud of the problem and the replacements work and do the job!

Time to wait and see .......
Glad to hear you reached Todd. Are you getting the resistors from him or do you have to get your own?
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Old 01-02-2014, 06:19 PM   #24
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There's wayy too many stories like this about these lights. Good luck
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Old 01-02-2014, 06:40 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MR.Sarge View Post
So I did speak to Todd today from Technostalgia. Explained the problem and he insists it's the resistor bank that is the issue, even though it's reading perfectly. So I guess with that, and with the confirmation above, that must be the issue why? Not sure but going to try that I guess. Cheapest option of the bunch to be honest. If it doesn't work, these lights are getting replaced back with the stock OEM ones. Todd also said I should get the 6 Ohm, 50W resistors instead of 7 Ohm, so I trust his judgement and will go that route and see. Hopefully the resistors are the actual bud of the problem and the replacements work and do the job!

Time to wait and see .......
When I had a problem with sweeptight seq tail lights I got 2 set from here.


http://www.gen5diy.com/Lighting/Load...ters/6_ohm_50W
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Old 01-02-2014, 06:47 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Caddyroger View Post
When I had a problem with sweeptight seq tail lights I got 2 set from here.


http://www.gen5diy.com/Lighting/Load...ters/6_ohm_50W
How did you connect them to tailight pigtail connector?
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Old 01-02-2014, 07:05 PM   #27
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How did you connect them to tailight pigtail connector?
I wired one to each turn signal lead and the other end to ground.
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Old 01-02-2014, 07:28 PM   #28
bumblebeecamaro
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There's wayy too many stories like this about these lights. Good luck
That's what I'm saying. I don't need to start any forum polls to figure out how much of a "let down" these lights can and could very well be a "let down".

After all, should we really see the tons and tons of problems posted on this forum from a $400 set of lights? Hell no...
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