02-20-2022, 12:52 PM | #1 |
Drives: 2014 Camaro ZL-1 Join Date: Dec 2021
Location: Cartersville GA
Posts: 41
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What size pulley?
So the previous owner installed a lower Lingenfelter pulley.. I just don’t know what size it is.. is there a way to tell?
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02-20-2022, 05:15 PM | #2 |
Let's go fishing!
Drives: a car with 8 cylinders Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Seabrook, Texas
Posts: 1,129
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That's just the balancer. You have to measure the balancer pulley to determine which % they got... it could be anywhere from a 5% up to a 22.5%
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02-20-2022, 06:53 PM | #3 | |
Drives: 2014 Camaro ZL-1 Join Date: Dec 2021
Location: Cartersville GA
Posts: 41
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Quote:
10-4! Wasn’t sure exactly what to look at to measure.. seems to be hitting about 14-15 psi which seems to be 10% maybe? Other than the intake car is stock. Am I safe to running that with out a tune? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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02-20-2022, 07:17 PM | #4 |
Drives: ZL1, 2013, tri-coat-red, manual Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,607
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If it has 916106 stamped on the back it’s a 10%.
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02-20-2022, 11:50 PM | #5 |
Big Crow
Drives: '13 ZL1 Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: California
Posts: 1,487
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tape measure
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02-21-2022, 06:11 AM | #6 |
Drives: 2014 Camaro ZL-1 Join Date: Dec 2021
Location: Cartersville GA
Posts: 41
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Awesome! Thanks guys.. I’ll check it out today when I get back home. Checked the gauge last night and it’s for sure showing 15-16 lbs.
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02-21-2022, 10:59 AM | #7 | |
Big Crow
Drives: '13 ZL1 Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: California
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https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=283952
This thread talks more about it. The chart from Linge.. is old and so they have updated belt length on some pulley combos.That psi boost chart isn't exactly correct but gives you some idea of where it would be. Psi depends if you have headers cam and other things. At your boost you might have an upper pulley that is smaller along with large lower pulley. I don't think any of the smaller uppers look like the OEM so that is easy just by looking at it to see if it's changed out. Again measuring across it to see if it's stock or e.g. a 2.5". The smaller upper pulleys tend to allow belt slip because they have less surface area for the belt to grip. Similar to smaller diameter tires spin more than a larger tire due to more contact patch size. A 2.3" upper will slip more than a 2.5" or stock. Most people will swear there is no slip because they didn't measure pulley speeds to confirm there is slip. One way to indirectly see it is rubber dust in the area, and heat generated. Slipping doesn't mean it's not working at all. It still spins faster and generates more boost. Better "grippy" belts and pulleys can help reduce slip. Also some crappy made in china pulleys are not machined as good and can cause more slip. I'd avoid those too. How do you find out slippage? You can do this for under $20, tachometer free pully ratio calculator. Note: I'm not sure if the bleed off is set to activate with e.g. rev'ing in park or if it must be loaded on a dyno or on the road. In other words does the boost gauge show boost sitting in the driveway, I don't know. The point of that statement is a belt wouldn't slip spinning the supercharger with no load vs building lots of boost. Like 3hp vs 50hp load on the belt. Last edited by silversleeper; 02-21-2022 at 11:48 AM. |
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02-21-2022, 12:08 PM | #8 |
Drives: 2014 Camaro ZL-1 Join Date: Dec 2021
Location: Cartersville GA
Posts: 41
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Very good information and things to watch for if I decide to do the upper pulley swap a little down the road.
After measuring it’s a touch shy of 9” so I’m leaning towards the 8.66” so the 10% sounds right. As far as the upper pulley it’s for sure the stock 3” pulley no doubt. Guessing from what I read of the gauge it could be off a touch or so. I know one thing butt dyno.. it moves out for sure. I do need to invest in a tuner and a good wideband then I’ll look at swapping that upper pulley out the last thing I wanna do is hurt this motor. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
02-21-2022, 02:57 PM | #9 |
Drives: 2013 ZL1 and 2019 Ram Laramie Join Date: May 2017
Location: Milwaukee
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If and when you do the upper, you certainly want to do the isolator (if not already done) and reinforce the brick. Any builder worth dust will know about this and recommend same. If upping the hp more, you can do a full port on the sc as well. At the very least, do the brick and isolator.
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02-21-2022, 05:23 PM | #10 |
Drives: 2014 Camaro ZL-1 Join Date: Dec 2021
Location: Cartersville GA
Posts: 41
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Okay pretty sure the isolator has never been done or at least I was not informed about it when I purchased the car. Seems like that’s a must from what I’ve read on here so far.
When you say reinforcing the brick I know we’re talking about the supercharger correct? What is involved with reinforcing it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
02-21-2022, 06:11 PM | #11 |
Drives: 2013 ZL1 and 2019 Ram Laramie Join Date: May 2017
Location: Milwaukee
Posts: 1,259
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The sc lid is tig welded for reinforcement. The oem Eaton lid is flimsy. A good precaution when a lot of extra boost is introduced.
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02-21-2022, 07:14 PM | #12 |
Drives: 2014 Camaro ZL-1 Join Date: Dec 2021
Location: Cartersville GA
Posts: 41
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02-21-2022, 07:42 PM | #13 |
Drives: ZL1, 2013, tri-coat-red, manual Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,607
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02-22-2022, 07:15 AM | #14 |
Drives: 2014 Camaro ZL-1 Join Date: Dec 2021
Location: Cartersville GA
Posts: 41
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Ahhh thanks for clearing that up a little.. probably wouldn't have done much good if I just had the lid welded other than I wouldn't be able to ever take it off to do any work lol
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