help me spend 25000! sponsors and shops please chime in.

[Slowhawk]

It will add up for a true 1000rwhp, not 1 time dyno pull.
Start with a 6 bolt block, 400-440ci. Good, thick deck heads cam, compression will go with what fi you run.
Turbo can get you there easier. By product is heat under the hood ect.
F1 blower can do it with the downfall is the belt setup which can fail.

First choice should be what kind of power adder you want to use before picking the engine combo.

[Oxtar41]

Originally Posted by Slowhawk

It will add up for a true 1000rwhp, not 1 time dyno pull.
Start with a 6 bolt block, 400-440ci. Good, thick deck heads cam, compression will go with what fi you run.
Turbo can get you there easier. By product is heat under the hood ect.
F1 blower can do it with the downfall is the belt setup which can fail.

First choice should be what kind of power adder you want to use before picking the engine combo.

Im kind of leaning towards turbos. Thank you for your input.

[mylftft]

I had an SS that made 732 whp with an LPE 416 & a Maggie on top with all the cool stuff to make lots of boost & have no belt slip. Like I said earlier I now have an LSX with Trick Flow 255's & an ADM/AGP tt kit, we stopped it on the dyno at 1074 rwhp. PM me if you want to talk about drivability differences & price, I could share my opinions on both of them.

[bmbbl be]

man andy at ADM does some nice work.... that is a sweet set-up ,,,, nice job

[Unreal]

There will be 2-3 more 1000-1300rwhp AGP setups done hopefully in the next 3-4 weeks.

[PfadtRacing]

Oxtar41, we are stoked you are thinking about doing this build! We just hope you document every step of the way because this will be car porn at its finest. We can help you with the breathing end with our Tri_y headers no matter what you end up doing. One of our daily drivers is a 717rwhp ZL1 and currently we are working on a much higher than 1000HP 5th gen with Florida Speed & Power. Besides power, you have to make sure you can get it to the ground and keep it there. This is key not only for speed but also for safety. We have the right suspension components to harness this beast. Give us a call and I can hook you up with an engineer to discuss your build. 888-972-2464

[Oxtar41]

Originally Posted by PfadtRacing

Oxtar41, we are stoked you are thinking about doing this build! We just hope you document every step of the way because this will be car porn at its finest. We can help you with the breathing end with our Tri_y headers no matter what you end up doing. One of our daily drivers is a 717rwhp ZL1 and currently we are working on a much higher than 1000HP 5th gen with Florida Speed & Power. Besides power, you have to make sure you can get it to the ground and keep it there. This is key not only for speed but also for safety. We have the right suspension components to harness this beast. Give us a call and I can hook you up with an engineer to discuss your build. 888-972-2464

once I figure out a soild build plan I will for sure get in touch. Thank you for the insight.

[east TX Muscle cars]

Originally Posted by mylftft

I just did it, I'm making over 1000 at the wheels, went 201.9 at the Mile, I put 700 miles on the car this last week, I have the drivable part covered. I did it using the agp kit with Andy & ADM's handprints all over it making it their own. I went with an LSX block with 6 bolt heads, I saw way to many cars lift heads at the Texas Mile last week, I'd never use a 4 bolt block to reliably go over 1000 at the wheels. Not to depress you but your not going to do it for $25,000. 1000 horsepower, drivable, 1000 mile trip reliable & affordable don't go together. Do it once, do it right.

Yea we do alot of these high PSI cars and a 6 bolt block is the ONLY way to go.
and i agree 25K is a little low to do this all right. you could do the motor and FI parts but you still need the trans, rear,suspension to all hold it too.

not hard to build a 1000HP DD but it is expensive.

awesome MPH at the mile!

to the OP if you want a quote you can shoot us a email or call.

we did 900+ RWHP through a 4l80 AUTO in a 2010 with only 17 PSI using a YSI. we could do this with a YSI if you want on a stick car. just have fun hooking it up

[Camper]

Originally Posted by JLE58

Send it to Matt@fsp I have a fuel system ( squash and fic1000's )and darton sleeved block with LSx ls7 6 bolt heads and ls7 intake for 9500. Buy the twin agp kit and a 9 inch and your good to go...

I second this.. You will get the most out of your $25k by going to Matt@FSP and land top quality work with it also.

[Diode Dynamics]

Nick C.

[PfadtRacing]

Originally Posted by Oxtar41

once I figure out a soild build plan I will for sure get in touch. Thank you for the insight.

No problem. Good news is you are at the right place. There are more than enough qualified shops and people here to help you out.

[Kelly@PCMofNC]

Originally Posted by Oxtar41

Title says it. I have 25,000 I want to put into my car and want to make around 1000 rwhp. Looking on input on the best way to go about the build. I want something reliable that I can jump in and drive 1000 miles and not have to worry about as it is a street car. It will probably see the track a couple times a year. A little info about my car.

jre rough idle blower cam
E-force sc
Id850s
Zl1 fuel pump
Msd fuel pump voltage booster
Dynatech long tubes
built tr6060
Stock clutch
dual valve springs
Hardened push rods
dss driveshaft

Im forgetting some stuff but thats a basic list of current mods. I think im going to ditch the eforce and go centri. I dont know if I should get a new block all together or just stroke and forge mine now. Looking for ideas. I do want to build the rear end or replace it with a zl1 rear. Thats a must along with a new clutch to hold the power. Let me know what you guys think and shops please feel free to PM me as ill probably ship the car and have a reputable shop build it for me as I dont have the time this year. Thanks in advance!

Where are you located? We'd be glad to help. Here are my thoughts.

Sell E-force SC, it's not going to meet your 1000hp goal, and you can recoup a LOT of money there to put towards the new setup.

Sell the longblock also. LS3's are great but if you want to make 1000rwhp, you'd be better off with a larger motor with a forged rotating assembly to take a beating. Plus, selling the longblock should be another few grand to put towards your swap.

You should also be able to sell the BAP and the injectors (not enough).

With your current budget and money you recoup from parts, 1k hp should be doable. Especially considering we're not trying to factor in a 4L80e swap (easy 7-8k right there).

I would do a build very similar to this one - 2010 Camaro Procharged F1R. GM High Tech actually featured this car we built in August 2013 if you want more info on it. This setup is fantastic, it was making 800rwhp at the time the articles were done, but now we are up to 1000rwhp and it still has plenty of room to go. The best thing about it? The driveability is awesome, in fact the owner is constantly tearing up the streets with it.

I would do a forged 418ci or so from texas speed, and either 6 bolt heads or LSA heads ported by either WCCH or Advanced Induction. I'd probably use the same cam in that build (Valkyrie) maybe tweak it a bit.

I would definitely do a centri blower for this build. Procharger or vortech, doesn't matter. The F1R is a huge unit made by Procharger which will make a ton of horsepower. Cap it off with an LSXRT 102mm intake manifold. I would do either a FORE Innovations fuel system or a Squash fuel system, 1000rwhp is too far gone for a GM pump and a BAP.

Injectors, I would do 2,000cc's from FIC.

Not sure who built your 6060 but hopefully it will hold the HP. Definitely step up the clutch as the new setup will bring the pain, lol. Not sure if you have any suspension or not but I would change all of that if it's stock. We used a Pfadt package on the car I linked to, with solid subframe bushings, new trailing/toe arms, springs, etc the whole nine yards. Was very happy with it, the only reason we are changing it out now is to go to a more drag strip oriented setup (Wilwoods all around, coilovers on the back and strange DA shocks).

Rear end is not likely to hold up very long. I'd probably go big and do the Driveshaft shop 9" conversion which is practically unbreakable, paired with their 1500hp axles.

This would be a sick build for sure

[RBL]

Originally Posted by Kelly@PCMofNC

Where are you located? We'd be glad to help. Here are my thoughts.

Sell E-force SC, it's not going to meet your 1000hp goal, and you can recoup a LOT of money there to put towards the new setup.

Sell the longblock also. LS3's are great but if you want to make 1000rwhp, you'd be better off with a larger motor with a forged rotating assembly to take a beating. Plus, selling the longblock should be another few grand to put towards your swap.

You should also be able to sell the BAP and the injectors (not enough).

With your current budget and money you recoup from parts, 1k hp should be doable. Especially considering we're not trying to factor in a 4L80e swap (easy 7-8k right there).

I would do a build very similar to this one - 2010 Camaro Procharged F1R. GM High Tech actually featured this car we built in August 2013 if you want more info on it. This setup is fantastic, it was making 800rwhp at the time the articles were done, but now we are up to 1000rwhp and it still has plenty of room to go. The best thing about it? The driveability is awesome, in fact the owner is constantly tearing up the streets with it.

I would do a forged 418ci or so from texas speed, and either 6 bolt heads or LSA heads ported by either WCCH or Advanced Induction. I'd probably use the same cam in that build (Valkyrie) maybe tweak it a bit.

I would definitely do a centri blower for this build. Procharger or vortech, doesn't matter. The F1R is a huge unit made by Procharger which will make a ton of horsepower. Cap it off with an LSXRT 102mm intake manifold. I would do either a FORE Innovations fuel system or a Squash fuel system, 1000rwhp is too far gone for a GM pump and a BAP.

Injectors, I would do 2,000cc's from FIC.

Not sure who built your 6060 but hopefully it will hold the HP. Definitely step up the clutch as the new setup will bring the pain, lol. Not sure if you have any suspension or not but I would change all of that if it's stock. We used a Pfadt package on the car I linked to, with solid subframe bushings, new trailing/toe arms, springs, etc the whole nine yards. Was very happy with it, the only reason we are changing it out now is to go to a more drag strip oriented setup (Wilwoods all around, coilovers on the back and strange DA shocks).

Rear end is not likely to hold up very long. I'd probably go big and do the Driveshaft shop 9" conversion which is practically unbreakable, paired with their 1500hp axles.

This would be a sick build for sure

Good people right here OP.