Anyone have this setup

[Bandit63]

I have 2011 SS with 3200-3400 circle D stall, CAI, 3.91 gears and dyno Steve tune.

This winter looking at installing Texas speed headers w/off road pipes, TSP stage 2 vvt-2.2 cam kit w/ 16 lifters, TSP dod delete kit, TSP trunion rocker arm kit, melling oil pump and SLP underdrive pulley.

Anyone running this setup or close to it? Just looking for pro's, con’s or anybody’s thoughts.

[Clarkstar]

I would go stage 3 or 4 cam... I think you might be disappointed with the stage 2.... that's my thoughts...

[sinisterlsx510]

let me know how it goes.. was thinking going with a 2.2 if not a 3.2

[jc615]

I had the old tsp stage 2. I'd bump up to the stage 3 if I was you

[christianchevell]

Go for stage three it has the same maintenance issues over time and makes more power or better, SLP underdrive just a cheap POS IMO I bought a TSP under drive and me and my tuner looked at it and said; NO thanks just as likely to fall apart as stock and no good for the vibrations...I sold mine at a loss and bought a good Fluidampr...under drives the alternator only which as a manual with a 950 idle matter nada....and the claims of underdrives greatly overrated on more than one engine over the millennia... spend a hundred or two gain 1 HP maybe not so much a winning product launch.....

And yes over time I have seen over the years here SLP underdrives fall apart at the rubber ring just like the stock non balancer pulley.....And you will want a good shop to install your stuff, I would use a 8620 core, and new lifter buckets and of course the costs of the head gaskets; best , new TTY bolts of course, a better c5r timing chain/ls7 2 style dogbone dampener to avoid the ls3 styles breakage.... stuff like that... And talk to TSP, I myself use Driven racing oil and BTW they include the initial break in oil Of BR30 from driven racing with any new block they sell and you use it or you don't get the block warranty if applicable.... TSP is good... And btw the old standard go too of the Robert Ways step by step for cam install...I was here, he had trouble getting his preload set right ...its best in the .040 to .060 range kind of what I have learned here over time and that's 1.7 ratio X .047 thread pitch per turn = .077 for one full turn on the nut of the stud/bolt for our heads so 3/4 a turn or less your in the zone from zero lash and the more lash the better for limiting valve float but worse for typewriter noise and if you go.... tooooo farrrrr well you might just eat your cam screw your lifters..etc and blame it on the cam being bad.... as bottomed out the engine is so strong it will turn with the pushrods hitting the plungers into the bottom of the lifters and eat the crap up......so others found out who thought oh well .047 thread pitch I can turn it like one and half turns to get like the ls7 preload for high revs as we share the same lifters...some horror I witnessed with initial guys doing builds...some just jumped..used to be populated with a lot more people on here many just itching to build something and fixing stupid....something that had to happen from the school or hard knocks... Anyway I had a 235/239 cam from TSP before it was great....

[Bandit63]

Thanks for the replies. I was kinda back and forth on stage 2 or 3 cam. Think I’ll go with stage 3, it’s not a DD but we do drive it on weekends and like to take it on trips. Also going to ditch the SLP pulley.

[Gunmetal Speedster]

Definitely think you'll be happier with the stage 3. Especially if it isn't a daily driver

[frankwjr]

Why not PM dynoSteve for his input? Your gonna need an updated tune anyway so what ever you decide, he could have a tune for you before you even start the work...IMHO.

[DaddySS]

Originally Posted by frankwjr

Why not PM dynoSteve for his input? Your gonna need an updated tune anyway so what ever you decide, he could have a tune for you before you even start the work...IMHO.

Good suggestion. Drivability is important and he'll be able to point you to the right balance.