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Old 02-25-2018, 08:52 PM   #1
CrystalRedTintcoat


 
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Clutch Fluid Flush

Much is written on this forum about separating the brake and clutch lines into respective reservoirs. And many of us have done this. And many threads have been raised about adding a tick bleeder. Let me say, that I have both separated the clutch reservoir and I have the tick bleeder.

I have been lazy about purging my clutch fluid until today.

It took four (4) 12oz bottles of Dot 4 fluid to fully purge water contaminated clutch fluid before my brake test tool showed no water present.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/o...4aAvUMEALw_wcB

Bottom line ... I used to simply top off my clutch reservoir while bleeding the fluid through the tick bleeder and call it a day. But today I decided to be more thorough.
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Old 02-26-2018, 12:16 PM   #2
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Thanks for this info CRT. But if simply opening the tick bleeder and letting out the old, then topping up with new doesn't get rid of the water present. Then what does?
That a lot of DOT 4 fluid to just clear the clutch lines.
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Old 02-26-2018, 12:43 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1LeSS View Post
Thanks for this info CRT. But if simply opening the tick bleeder and letting out the old, then topping up with new doesn't get rid of the water present. Then what does?
That a lot of DOT 4 fluid to just clear the clutch lines.
I agree. Odd. In the past I'd just refill the reservoir and check the level after pumping the clutch 50 times. Clean.

This time I'd check the bleed out bottle. Dirty (with water) for three bottles. Didn't clear up until the fourth. Seems odd.

Does anyone know the total capacity of the clutch system? My reservoir is 8-10oz. How much does the master cylinder, slave cylinder and lines hold?
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Old 02-26-2018, 06:05 PM   #4
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CRT minimal fluid sits in the slave. I’ll need to get home to see the volume that the mity vac holds, but I usually get clearish fluid at about 3/4 of the cup.
Something I’ve noticed lately is that when I get lazy and push the time between flushes it takes a lot to get it all clean. In addition it seems as though contamination collects on the reservoir side of the master piston. It is tough to get it out once in there.
It will flush clear but with pumping or driving the remote reservoir rapidly gets cloudy again. That makes sense if crud is behind the piston. I disassembled a master after a particularly long time between flushes and the backside was packed with crud.
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Old 02-27-2018, 11:54 AM   #5
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I have always used a Motive Power Bleeder for my flushes rather than just wait for the fluid to come out. As I can only drive my car for 5 months of the year. This process takes place once a year..usually after the car is parked for the winter.
The Motive Power Bleeder is the only way that I have found to successfully do a brake fluid change with out problems. Tried the dealer...they over charged and put the wrong fluid in...also I left with a soft pedal. Tried again but no happiness, Tried a small automotive shop and while they bled everything, used to much fluid....I went back to my tried and true Power Bleeder. Hook it up, pump, and then go open each port on the calipers and clutch. I have never checked the water content so cant make comments about that but my pedal is ALWAYS very firm once completed. Better than the dlrship.
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Old 02-27-2018, 04:11 PM   #6
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I just do this...http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html

why make life difficult...peace..
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Old 02-28-2018, 08:17 PM   #7
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I also do the flush and refill from the top periodically, but that definitely isn't enough. I started having a lot of issues with the pedal recently and had my shop do a full flush. Literally night and day difference.
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Old 03-26-2018, 08:26 PM   #8
h018871
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h018871 View Post
CRT minimal fluid sits in the slave. Iíll need to get home to see the volume that the mity vac holds, but I usually get clearish fluid at about 3/4 of the cup.
Something Iíve noticed lately is that when I get lazy and push the time between flushes it takes a lot to get it all clean. In addition it seems as though contamination collects on the reservoir side of the master piston. It is tough to get it out once in there.
It will flush clear but with pumping or driving the remote reservoir rapidly gets cloudy again. That makes sense if crud is behind the piston. I disassembled a master after a particularly long time between flushes and the backside was packed with crud.
Sorry, i'm sooooooo late in getting back to this.

Today I performed an experiment, I sucked out the GTO reservoir and wiped it clean. Then I fillid it up with ATE blue, then sucked through the speed bleeder until I got blue fluid. The first blue showed up at ~ 40cc, fully dark blue by 80cc. Repeated the process with ATE Amber, same results.
This leads me to believe that the system: supply line, master cylinder, line to the slave, slave & speed bleeder = 40cc. Not much when you think about it.

I feel as though "crud" gets stuck or collects on the reservoir side of the master cylinder piston. this is why it takes a couple or more containers of fresh fluid to get the bleeder side to get clear.
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