Manual transmission removal the easy way

[race24x]

So if I drop the cradle I dont have to take the center console and shifter boot out through the top? The OP had a ZL1 so the SC hit the firewall. I wonder if I have a bit more room

[Nb1081]

Originally Posted by race24x

So if I drop the cradle I dont have to take the center console and shifter boot out through the top? The OP had a ZL1 so the SC hit the firewall. I wonder if I have a bit more room

Yes you have to pull up and unbolt from up top its just like most cars or trucks with a manual except shifter is bolted to floor not directly to transmission the tranny has a linkage arm to the shifter
Pull up the trim piece take off boot off and knob un bolt the 4 bolts 10mm head holding shifter to floor then get tranny on jack take off tranny crossmember lower tranny down and shifter can come off easier to get to pins you can use the allen like mgm video or small flat head unplug wiring feed it over top of tranny tuck it on other side of exhaust get the top cpl bolts off tranny then jack back up to level take other bolts out slide tranny back till its out of pressure plate and ......... you get the rest same as any other manual tranny with attached bellhousing you may need to lower rear cradle lil bit i didnt cause i cut crossmember under oilpan out to do gasket

[ZMEnow]

Originally Posted by race24x

So if I drop the cradle I dont have to take the center console and shifter boot out through the top? The OP had a ZL1 so the SC hit the firewall. I wonder if I have a bit more room

I cant answer because all my experience and feedback to the forum was based on my ZL1 as it is the ZL1 forum..

[FASTFATBOY]

I am about to do this job, this kind of confused me as did the pic.


Do you take the center console out or not?

Can you do it by just taking the shift knob off and do it from underneath?



#17 Remove shift linkage assembly? You may not have to do this anymore with the extra clearance. I did it anyways and its not difficult. I found for me it was easier to access from up top reaching my hand through the tunnel. There are 3 pins that need to be removed. The one in the middle just use a flatblade screwdriver to remove 1 retaining clip and push pin out. The 2 on the outside use a flat blade again but if you look close at them they have a tab on one side, get your flat blade under there and pull up and rotate them. Once they are rotated out of the way they can be pushed out. Its actually real easy.

[ZMEnow]

Originally Posted by FASTFATBOY

I am about to do this job, this kind of confused me as did the pic.


Do you take the center console out or not?

Can you do it by just taking the shift knob off and do it from underneath?



#17 Remove shift linkage assembly? You may not have to do this anymore with the extra clearance. I did it anyways and its not difficult. I found for me it was easier to access from up top reaching my hand through the tunnel. There are 3 pins that need to be removed. The one in the middle just use a flatblade screwdriver to remove 1 retaining clip and push pin out. The 2 on the outside use a flat blade again but if you look close at them they have a tab on one side, get your flat blade under there and pull up and rotate them. Once they are rotated out of the way they can be pushed out. Its actually real easy.

If you find my notes from years back that I added to his note you will find that if you lower the cradle as I described and as GM describes, you will have more than enough room after removing the Trans support to disconnect the 3 linkages at the trans, thus you don't need to touch anything inside the car.


Keep in mind I am working from a lift and he did it on jack stands.

[FASTFATBOY]

Originally Posted by ZMEnow

If you find my notes from years back that I added to his note you will find that if you lower the cradle as I described and as GM describes, you will have more than enough room after removing the Trans support to disconnect the 3 linkages at the trans, thus you don't need to touch anything inside the car.


Keep in mind I am working from a lift and he did it on jack stands.

I also have a lift, thanks for the info!

[FASTFATBOY]

Originally Posted by ZMEnow

If you find my notes from years back that I added to his note you will find that if you lower the cradle as I described and as GM describes, you will have more than enough room after removing the Trans support to disconnect the 3 linkages at the trans, thus you don't need to touch anything inside the car.


Keep in mind I am working from a lift and he did it on jack stands.

Not even the shift knob?

[ZMEnow]

Originally Posted by FASTFATBOY

Not even the shift knob?

You are disconnecting the shift linkage rods from the trans. The linkage rods are connected to the shifter, and the knobs is on the shifter. Make sense? You up for this?

[FASTFATBOY]

Originally Posted by ZMEnow

You are disconnecting the shift linkage rods from the trans. The linkage rods are connected to the shifter, and the knobs is on the shifter. Make sense? You up for this?

You misunderstood.

The minimum that needs to be done inside the car is to take off the shift knob, you get enough clearance under the car by dropping the cradle that the shifter itself can be removed from under the car.

Correct?

There are also two 10MM nuts on the floorboard to the rear of the shifter hole in the floor that have to come off, then you slide off a little silver deal with two "locators" on it.


I will pull the trans in the morning, everything is disconnected. All that is left is to put the jack under it, drop the cradle, take the crossmember out and get the bellhousing bolts.

[ZMEnow]

Originally Posted by FASTFATBOY

You misunderstood.

The minimum that needs to be done inside the car is to take off the shift knob, you get enough clearance under the car by dropping the cradle that the shifter itself can be removed from under the car.

Correct?

There are also two 10MM nuts on the floorboard to the rear of the shifter hole in the floor that have to come off, then you slide off a little silver deal with two "locators" on it.


I will pull the trans in the morning, everything is disconnected. All that is left is to put the jack under it, drop the cradle, take the crossmember out and get the bellhousing bolts.

Unless you are replacing the shifter with something else, why are you removing it. You only need to unlatch the shifter link clips to release the linkage rods from the trans. They just stay in place when you lower the trans. Same in reverse you just raise the trans and reconnect the clips. There is no reason to touch anything inside the car, especially the shifter knob. Hope it works out for you..

By the way with the cradle lowered and the trans crossmember still connected, you didn’t buy anything. Once you remove the crossmember you would have had easy access to the linkage clips..

[FASTFATBOY]

Originally Posted by ZMEnow

Unless you are replacing the shifter with something else, why are you removing it. You only need to unlatch the shifter link clips to release the linkage rods from the trans. They just stay in place when you lower the trans. Same in reverse you just raise the trans and reconnect the clips. There is no reason to touch anything inside the car, especially the shifter knob. Hope it works out for you..

By the way with the cradle lowered and the trans crossmember still connected, you didn’t buy anything. Once you remove the crossmember you would have had easy access to the linkage clips..

Yep, I see that now.

Trans is out and clutch is mounted

Thanks for the help

[ZMEnow]

Originally Posted by FASTFATBOY

Yep, I see that now.

Trans is out and clutch is mounted

Thanks for the help

I would add a one man speed bleeder while you are in there. Its almost impossible to bleed the regular bleeder by yourself. I used a Monster and I just hit it with my Mitivac after I finish the brakes. No pumping the brakes or the clutch..

[FASTFATBOY]

Originally Posted by ZMEnow

I would add a one man speed bleeder while you are in there. Its almost impossible to bleed the regular bleeder by yourself. I used a Monster and I just hit it with my Mitivac after I finish the brakes. No pumping the brakes or the clutch..

I did put a remote bleeder in.


To make it easier with the remote bleeder, put the bleeder in a shallow pan on the floor, leave the top off the brake master cylinder and let it gravity bleed until a good stream comes out. This will make bleeding easier.


You do have to take the rods off the front ride sensor arms, I am pretty sure I damaged one of my ride sensors because I didn't. I now have a "service suspension" message on my DIC and the car rides like a wagon.

I will have the code checked and report back.

[ZMEnow]

Originally Posted by FASTFATBOY

I did put a remote bleeder in.


To make it easier with the remote bleeder, put the bleeder in a shallow pan on the floor, leave the top off the brake master cylinder and let it gravity bleed until a good stream comes out. This will make bleeding easier.


You do have to take the rods off the front ride sensor arms, I am pretty sure I damaged one of my ride sensors because I didn't. I now have a "service suspension" message on my DIC and the car rides like a wagon.

I will have the code checked and report back.

You said you have lift, buy a Mityvac, it will make brake bleeding very simple and clutch as well. My monster bleeder is zip tied to the frame just off the side of the trans. Just open the valve, pop on the Mityvac tube, put a bottle fluid on the Mityvac holder in the master cylinder, bleed away. Just remember to stop once in awhile to make sure the bottle doesn’t go empty.