Project clutch master cylinder/second gear grind - Page 77 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

chalhoee · 05-22-2014, 04:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IDEALG

yes they are www.idealgaragellc.com

Item ordered! How long does it take to ship?

IDEALG · 05-22-2014, 04:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chalhoee

Item ordered! How long does it take to ship?

it will ship out tomorrow morning first thing. thanks

JacekPSUr1 · 06-13-2014, 12:30 PM

Subscribed

Destructo09 · 07-02-2014, 10:46 PM

I got mine installed tonight, I had a very intermittent 2nd gear grind in the 5-6k rpm range. It will probably be awhile before I know if it solved it. The clutch pedal does feel a slight bit different. The very end of the travel feels a bit soft now as opposed to a hard stop, not sure why but everything is working fine so far.

One word of caution, if you have the GTO clutch fluid reservoir (separated from brakes) make sure you don't let it drop below about half way. The clutch pulls a good bit of fluid out of it when depressed all the way. I kept having trouble getting it bled and then realized the it was drawing in air even though it wasn't completely empty with the pedal up.

Otherwise it wasn't a terrible job to do, pretty sure I might have gotten the washer for the rear bolt in the wrong side of the space, but whatever, doesn't look to be an issue lol.

I did do a couple hard pulls from 1st to 2nd and everything seemed fine, but of course it was intermittent in the first place so time will tell.

blazzin1 · 07-03-2014, 10:11 AM

Okay guys, looking for a little advice here. I have a very early (R6P) 2010 SS LS3. I've had a slight grind going into 2nd & 3rd ever since I've owned the car. It's not a super terrible "grinding" noise, but just a little bit, but definitely not smooth. Here's what I've done so far to try to resolve this...

- Upgraded my tranny fluid to Redline D4 ATF
- Separate Clutch Reservoir Kit from JDP
- IdealG Modified Clutch Master Cylinder
- Tick Performance braided steel clutch line

It STILL has the very "notchy" shifting going into 2nd & 3rd. I still have the stock clutch in the car. Had a few people tell me the syncros in the transmission are probably messed up and need to be upgraded?

I'm using this brake fluid in the brake and clutch reservoirs, it's a DOT-5.1 (non-silicone). Was told NOT to use silicone-based fluid! Is this fluid maybe causing problems?
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...012_0006443459

I noticed the other day that the clutch fluid is getting VERY, VERY hot (even in the reservoir)!!! The supply hose coming off the clutch reservoir (going to the clutch master cylinder) is touching my inner fender well in one spot, and it literally melted the paint on my inner fender well in that spot!!! This is just with "spirited" street driving....not on a track or anything!

Any thoughts, opinions, or advice is greatly appreciated.

IDEALG · 07-03-2014, 10:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blazzin1

Okay guys, looking for a little advice here. I have a very early (R6P) 2010 SS LS3. I've had a slight grind going into 2nd & 3rd ever since I've owned the car. It's not a super terrible "grinding" noise, but just a little bit, but definitely not smooth. Here's what I've done so far to try to resolve this...

- Upgraded my tranny fluid to Redline D4 ATF
- Separate Clutch Reservoir Kit from JDP
- IdealG Modified Clutch Master Cylinder
- Tick Performance braided steel clutch line

It STILL has the very "notchy" shifting going into 2nd & 3rd. I still have the stock clutch in the car. Had a few people tell me the syncros in the transmission are probably messed up and need to be upgraded?

I'm using this brake fluid in the brake and clutch reservoirs, it's a DOT-5.1 (non-silicone). Was told NOT to use silicone-based fluid! Is this fluid maybe causing problems?
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...012_0006443459

I noticed the other day that the clutch fluid is getting VERY, VERY hot (even in the reservoir)!!! The supply hose coming off the clutch reservoir (going to the clutch master cylinder) is touching my inner fender well in one spot, and it literally melted the paint on my inner fender well in that spot!!! This is just with "spirited" street driving....not on a track or anything!

Any thoughts, opinions, or advice is greatly appreciated.

only thing i can suggest other then replacing the transmission is to wrap the reservoir hose and hydaulic lines going from the master cylinder to the transmission with heat resistant wrap . a company called "cool it" makes them. can probably find them online at summit racing.

blazzin1 · 07-03-2014, 10:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IDEALG

only thing i can suggest other then replacing the transmission is to wrap the reservoir hose and hydaulic lines going from the master cylinder to the transmission with heat resistant wrap . a company called "cool it" makes them. can probably find them online at summit racing.

Okay, thanks, I'll look into this "cool it" wrap stuff.

IDEALG · 07-03-2014, 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blazzin1

Okay, thanks, I'll look into this "cool it" wrap stuff.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/the-14010

2012-2SS · 07-03-2014, 12:36 PM

Doesn't the Tick Performance braided line come with a heat wrap already on it?

BMR Sales · 07-03-2014, 02:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2012-2SS

Doesn't the Tick Performance braided line come with a heat wrap already on it?

Mine didn't, but then again, I bought mine used from the classifieds here on Camaro5, so....

shadow09 · 07-05-2014, 11:51 AM

Will be ordering one of these soon! Glad I found this

IDEALG · 07-07-2014, 08:48 AM

We will be on vacation July 9th thru 15th

any orders placed during that time will be shipped out on the 16th

Thanks,

Ideal Garage

Destructo09 · 07-27-2014, 08:17 PM

So, after some driving I still did get a 2nd gear grind at high rpm the other day. I have a hurst shifter and I think i'm going to go back to the stock and see what happens. The bushings in my hurst seem to have quite a bit of play in them which is pretty common. Or I might try getting the upgraded bushings as well and try that first. I kinda feel like maybe i'm missing the gate by a bit when shifting fast and it's preventing me getting it fully into gear before letting the clutch out.

Or, maybe the synchros are just having issues, not sure, eventually I will run out of things to try lol. Once I run out I guess i'll have the transmission built to a Stage 1 from Tick and see how that goes.

DOOK · 08-12-2014, 05:25 AM

I got my kit today. They were nice enough to include the stainless line special order.
Looks great, and very complete.
Thanks for the extra effort!

Where, and how is everyone mounting the reservoir?

View Poll Results: if you definitely want a cylinder please chose V6 or SS. need to figure out how many
I own a V6	20	20.83%
I own a V6 but will wait for a core exchange	7	7.29%
I own a SS	50	52.08%
I own a SS but will wait for a core exchange	21	21.88%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 96. You may not vote on this poll

06-13-2014, 12:30 PM	#1067
JacekPSUr1 2013 1SS in IOM Drives: 2013 1SS Join Date: May 2012 Location: Lansdale, PA Posts: 641 View My Garage	Subscribed __________________

07-02-2014, 10:46 PM	#1068
Destructo09 Drives: 2010 CGM Camaro 2SS/LS3 Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Raleigh-Durham Posts: 1,409	I got mine installed tonight, I had a very intermittent 2nd gear grind in the 5-6k rpm range. It will probably be awhile before I know if it solved it. The clutch pedal does feel a slight bit different. The very end of the travel feels a bit soft now as opposed to a hard stop, not sure why but everything is working fine so far. One word of caution, if you have the GTO clutch fluid reservoir (separated from brakes) make sure you don't let it drop below about half way. The clutch pulls a good bit of fluid out of it when depressed all the way. I kept having trouble getting it bled and then realized the it was drawing in air even though it wasn't completely empty with the pedal up. Otherwise it wasn't a terrible job to do, pretty sure I might have gotten the washer for the rear bolt in the wrong side of the space, but whatever, doesn't look to be an issue lol. I did do a couple hard pulls from 1st to 2nd and everything seemed fine, but of course it was intermittent in the first place so time will tell. __________________ 2010 2SS BMR 1" Springs Koni Orange struts/shocks 1LE rear sway bar SRP Racing Pedals Hurst Billet short shifter Square tire/wheel setup Elite Engineering Catch Can Stainless Power longtubes/highflow cats K&N Typhoon CAI RPM Motorsports of Garner, NC dyno tune (421 RWHP)

07-03-2014, 10:11 AM	#1069
blazzin1 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS R6P Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: St. Cloud, FL Posts: 4,845 View My Garage	Okay guys, looking for a little advice here. I have a very early (R6P) 2010 SS LS3. I've had a slight grind going into 2nd & 3rd ever since I've owned the car. It's not a super terrible "grinding" noise, but just a little bit, but definitely not smooth. Here's what I've done so far to try to resolve this... - Upgraded my tranny fluid to Redline D4 ATF - Separate Clutch Reservoir Kit from JDP - IdealG Modified Clutch Master Cylinder - Tick Performance braided steel clutch line It STILL has the very "notchy" shifting going into 2nd & 3rd. I still have the stock clutch in the car. Had a few people tell me the syncros in the transmission are probably messed up and need to be upgraded? I'm using this brake fluid in the brake and clutch reservoirs, it's a DOT-5.1 (non-silicone). Was told NOT to use silicone-based fluid! Is this fluid maybe causing problems? http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...012_0006443459 I noticed the other day that the clutch fluid is getting VERY, VERY hot (even in the reservoir)!!! The supply hose coming off the clutch reservoir (going to the clutch master cylinder) is touching my inner fender well in one spot, and it literally melted the paint on my inner fender well in that spot!!! This is just with "spirited" street driving....not on a track or anything! Any thoughts, opinions, or advice is greatly appreciated. Last edited by blazzin1; 07-03-2014 at 10:21 AM.

07-03-2014, 12:36 PM	#1073
2012-2SS Drives: 2012 Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Dover, NH Posts: 678	Doesn't the Tick Performance braided line come with a heat wrap already on it? __________________ 2012 Camaro 2SS/RS, Hurst Short Throw, IdealG M/C, Pypes Pipe Bomb, LSR Cold Air Intake, LSR Toe Links/Lower Control Arms Clear Image headers, high flows, Slowhawk tune 1974 Chevy K10 Built 355, FAST EZ EFI, 5speed 2000 Chevy Tahoe LT 5.3L, Slowhawk tune

07-05-2014, 11:51 AM	#1075
shadow09 H-Town Camaro Club Drives: 2013 1LE Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Pearland, Texas Posts: 957	Will be ordering one of these soon! Glad I found this __________________ Black 2013 1LE - Bolt ons - Heads - Cam- Suspension - Built by Jrod - Sorian Tuned

07-07-2014, 08:48 AM	#1076
IDEALG Chevy's "Rumble" Best! Drives: 2015 ZL1 6 speed Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Ideal Garage aka (Grayskull) Fords, nj Posts: 4,458 View My Garage	We will be on vacation July 9th thru 15th any orders placed during that time will be shipped out on the 16th Thanks, Ideal Garage __________________

07-27-2014, 08:17 PM	#1077
Destructo09 Drives: 2010 CGM Camaro 2SS/LS3 Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Raleigh-Durham Posts: 1,409	So, after some driving I still did get a 2nd gear grind at high rpm the other day. I have a hurst shifter and I think i'm going to go back to the stock and see what happens. The bushings in my hurst seem to have quite a bit of play in them which is pretty common. Or I might try getting the upgraded bushings as well and try that first. I kinda feel like maybe i'm missing the gate by a bit when shifting fast and it's preventing me getting it fully into gear before letting the clutch out. Or, maybe the synchros are just having issues, not sure, eventually I will run out of things to try lol. Once I run out I guess i'll have the transmission built to a Stage 1 from Tick and see how that goes. __________________ 2010 2SS BMR 1" Springs Koni Orange struts/shocks 1LE rear sway bar SRP Racing Pedals Hurst Billet short shifter Square tire/wheel setup Elite Engineering Catch Can Stainless Power longtubes/highflow cats K&N Typhoon CAI RPM Motorsports of Garner, NC dyno tune (421 RWHP)

08-12-2014, 05:25 AM	#1078
DOOK Wearing My BowTie Drives: 2SS~RS VR~Black Ralley's Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: South Surrey Posts: 97	I got my kit today. They were nice enough to include the stainless line special order. Looks great, and very complete. Thanks for the extra effort! Where, and how is everyone mounting the reservoir? __________________

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