Cam/Head?

[CamaroSpike23]

Category 1- "A step up from stock"

210-220* duration, should be spun to about 6000-6200 for max performance.

These cams will offer stock like driveability, no cam surge, not much lope, and great low end torque with little change in gas mileage. These can be used with stock manifolds, however shorties or longtubes are recommended. These can also be used with cats (won't clog them up) and WILL pass smog in all 50 states.

Category 2- "A little hotter!"

220-230* duration, should be spun to 6200-6400 for max performance.

These cams will have little cam surge, have a decent amount of lope, and the powerband will shift higher. Auto's should use at minimum a 3.23 gear, preferable a 3.42 or higher. A 2800-3000ish stall will also work the best. Gas mileage will drop a few mpg. Power in the 340-350rwhp range should be acheivable with stock heads and longtubes. I wouldn't use these with stock manifolds. With cats and a GOOD tune this will still pass smog in all 50 states, however the cats will clog more quickly than a stockish type car. 918 beehive springs will match all of these cams very well.

Category 3- "The big guns!"
230+* duration, should be spun to 6500+ for max performance.

These cams will have lots of lope, a very noticeable drop in low end torque, and a healthy drop in gas mileage. Even with a good driveability tune, these cams will still have a bit of surge to them, and WILL NOT PASS SMOG. They'll also clog up cats pretty quick. Autos should run a 3.73+ gear and a 3200+ stall. M6 can still use a stock gear, however 4.10s will give big driveability, and performance gains. M6 will need to downshift freequently on the highway with stock gearing!


Category 4- "The custom crowd"

Simple, tell the cam manufacturer what they wanna hear, and they'll give you an optimal cam that will do everything you want... lol kinda Often they will have tighter LSAs, lower durations, and higher lift. Most will offer improved power, but better driveability than a similar sized cam.

A word about LSA:
Wide (high) LSAs give better driveability with less emissions, tighter (lower) LSAs give a choppy idle. Wider lsa will give you flat long power curves. Tighter lsa will give you peakier type curves, and will typically make more lowend and midrange, however fall off faster up top with the same size cam. Nitrous loves a wide LSA, FI typically likes the same because wider LSA=less overlap however custom cams are another story on that. Most of the above cams are either a 112 or 114 lsa. Most customs are tighter in the 107-110 range depending on the app, talk to a cam grinder if you want more info on it



bowtieguy, you should be ok with 114 lsa esp since you are going F/I

[BowtieGuy]

Originally Posted by CamaroSpike23

bowtieguy, you should be ok with 114 lsa esp since you are going F/I

I know, I've done a ridiculous amount of research. School helps too.

[TFord]

Originally Posted by CamaroSpike23

Category 1- "A step up from stock"

210-220* duration, should be spun to about 6000-6200 for max performance.

These cams will offer stock like driveability, no cam surge, not much lope, and great low end torque with little change in gas mileage. These can be used with stock manifolds, however shorties or longtubes are recommended. These can also be used with cats (won't clog them up) and WILL pass smog in all 50 states.

Category 2- "A little hotter!"

220-230* duration, should be spun to 6200-6400 for max performance.

These cams will have little cam surge, have a decent amount of lope, and the powerband will shift higher. Auto's should use at minimum a 3.23 gear, preferable a 3.42 or higher. A 2800-3000ish stall will also work the best. Gas mileage will drop a few mpg. Power in the 340-350rwhp range should be acheivable with stock heads and longtubes. I wouldn't use these with stock manifolds. With cats and a GOOD tune this will still pass smog in all 50 states, however the cats will clog more quickly than a stockish type car. 918 beehive springs will match all of these cams very well.

Category 3- "The big guns!"
230+* duration, should be spun to 6500+ for max performance.

These cams will have lots of lope, a very noticeable drop in low end torque, and a healthy drop in gas mileage. Even with a good driveability tune, these cams will still have a bit of surge to them, and WILL NOT PASS SMOG. They'll also clog up cats pretty quick. Autos should run a 3.73+ gear and a 3200+ stall. M6 can still use a stock gear, however 4.10s will give big driveability, and performance gains. M6 will need to downshift freequently on the highway with stock gearing!


Category 4- "The custom crowd"

Simple, tell the cam manufacturer what they wanna hear, and they'll give you an optimal cam that will do everything you want... lol kinda Often they will have tighter LSAs, lower durations, and higher lift. Most will offer improved power, but better driveability than a similar sized cam.

A word about LSA:
Wide (high) LSAs give better driveability with less emissions, tighter (lower) LSAs give a choppy idle. Wider lsa will give you flat long power curves. Tighter lsa will give you peakier type curves, and will typically make more lowend and midrange, however fall off faster up top with the same size cam. Nitrous loves a wide LSA, FI typically likes the same because wider LSA=less overlap however custom cams are another story on that. Most of the above cams are either a 112 or 114 lsa. Most customs are tighter in the 107-110 range depending on the app, talk to a cam grinder if you want more info on it



bowtieguy, you should be ok with 114 lsa esp since you are going F/I

you need an ask Spike section...lol