How much is too much for the street? - Page 2 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

*SSE 4 2SS* · 03-18-2021, 11:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Big Biscuits

I have to roll into 4th. Not enough road for 5th, so I don’t know. It’s a fun problem. Makes me smile

Nice... lol...

eLeSthree · 03-19-2021, 05:48 AM

Well at least I'm not alone. I figured the BMR suspension would help, but cant say it has. Then I figured the 15 inch wheels would help, but it hasn't really. So now I'm gonna throw more parts at it and do front double adjustable coilovers. Ditched the front sway bar.

Everyone I know that's hooking on the street with 1000+ is turbo'd and can apply the power gradually.

I'm still running the stock 3:45s. I was planning on getting the zl1 3:73 rear, but seems that might just make it worse. At least it wont explode at the track.

I'm gonna try a Hoosier slick.

hunter1660 · 03-19-2021, 06:22 AM

Wheelie bars may be in your future..lol

TheFlyingBananaSS · 03-19-2021, 06:30 AM

I cant even floor it at 60mph, unless I have drag tires on, she breaks loose. And I just turned it up another notch lol.

racesloth · 03-19-2021, 07:35 AM

LOL - first world problems....

Mine will be back on the street this weekend with ZL1 3:73s

Bigdumogre · 03-19-2021, 07:41 AM

I hate you all lol. Hopefully one day I’ll have these problems

NXTLEVL · 03-19-2021, 08:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FrankT

Has anyone tried tuning the traction control tables? I added about twenty percent to those and leaving the traction control on. Spins just a little, but doesn't get out of control. This is on my Huron twin turbo manual trans car.

Tell me more about this! What did you change in the tables to try and mitigate pulling too much power out? What power levels are you currently at? Been struggling with traction on the street forever and just kind of gave up.

Tarendor · 03-19-2021, 10:17 AM

Unexpected lane changes become the norm lol

eLeSthree · 03-19-2021, 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FrankT

Has anyone tried tuning the traction control tables? I added about twenty percent to those and leaving the traction control on. Spins just a little, but doesn't get out of control. This is on my Huron twin turbo manual trans car.

Quote:

Originally Posted by NXTLEVL

Tell me more about this! What did you change in the tables to try and mitigate pulling too much power out? What power levels are you currently at? Been struggling with traction on the street forever and just kind of gave up.

11:00 mark. It seems TCS over compensates. It's not gonna work how we want it to.

Greenhornet2 · 03-19-2021, 10:47 AM

On a Hot day I can get full traction in 2nd on road course tires, first is useless. At 600WHP I could get full traction in first. I have 18" ET street I will try this year and hope to get full traction or close to it in first at my power level. I think general census is around 800WHP is max usable on the street. Though I bet 800WHP would be useless from a dig, 2nd gear rolling start maybe.

joshnmn · 03-19-2021, 12:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tarendor

Unexpected lane changes become the norm lol

bayarea408 · 03-19-2021, 01:11 PM

If it were me with your equipment. I would have went with a 275/60/15 MT Pro as a 28"+ tire softer with more side wall and taller. I dont see the benefits for you to use a shorter 27.8" tire aired up, even less aired down, wider shorter less aggressive compound tire. Considering you are a Manual car and the driveline shock is more violent in power delivery Bias Ply tires may hook nicer but act more sketchy at higher freeway speeds. So either a bias ply or the most aggressive successful small radial.

The key elements to getting it to hook is going to be in the front shocks that commit the weight transfer. you have a BMR rear kit so i assume all the bushings and parts to equip a 15" wheel properly are there.

Bring the car to a proper alignment shop and have it dialed in for a more drag racing approach, proper toe and camber is huge at these levels with racing rubber.

eLeSthree · 03-19-2021, 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bayarea408

If it were me with your equipment. I would have went with a 275/60/15 MT Pro as a 28"+ tire softer with more side wall and taller. I dont see the benefits for you to use a shorter 27.8" tire aired up, even less aired down, wider shorter less aggressive compound tire. Considering you are a Manual car and the driveline shock is more violent in power delivery Bias Ply tires may hook nicer but act more sketchy at higher freeway speeds. So either a bias ply or the most aggressive successful small radial.

The key elements to getting it to hook is going to be in the front shocks that commit the weight transfer. you have a BMR rear kit so i assume all the bushings and parts to equip a 15" wheel properly are there.

Bring the car to a proper alignment shop and have it dialed in for a more drag racing approach, proper toe and camber is huge at these levels with racing rubber.

I really appreciate the feedback. Actually thats the second recommendation ive had for that tire. Yes I have the bmr drag kit, plus the adj toe/trailing arms and bushing, subframe, motor mounts, anti roll bar, DA strange coilovers in rear and the fronts are on their way soon, waiting on strange.

Once i get them in I’m taking it to STP motorsports for a drag alignment.

stevieturbo · 03-20-2021, 10:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eLeSthree

Well at least I'm not alone. I figured the BMR suspension would help, but cant say it has. Then I figured the 15 inch wheels would help, but it hasn't really. So now I'm gonna throw more parts at it and do front double adjustable coilovers. Ditched the front sway bar.

Everyone I know that's hooking on the street with 1000+ is turbo'd and can apply the power gradually.

I'm still running the stock 3:45s. I was planning on getting the zl1 3:73 rear, but seems that might just make it worse. At least it wont explode at the track.

I'm gonna try a Hoosier slick.

What sort of road surfaces are they ?

Let's face it, most will be substandard, most will not be suitable for slicks, most will destroy drag radials... the list goes on. And yes, the shorter 3.73 is not likely to help anything.

Realistically, probably around 7-800hp is the upper end of a very usable, sensible fast car on real streets for normalish use in good conditions, in dry warm weather.

You could further tame that in lower gears with torque management, or if it's a good system traction control can add safety. But I doubt a stock ecu is going to offer much in those regards ?
Do you have options to say reduce timing in specific gears ? Limit throttle opening ?

My own car is different, but over many years with no traction, I've found that soft tyres like DR's or even slicks when using them on airfields, get destroyed in no time and become unusable.
One of the last times I tried some pretty new Hoosier DR's at an airfield for a 1km event, even at 165mph I couldn't even touch the throttle without them lighting up. Which in turn destroys them anyway making them worse.

Although I haven't tried, I'd think some of the Nitto DR's or similar would fare better simply as they are harder, so less chance of getting destroyed, so a better balance for those surfaces.

03-19-2021, 05:48 AM	#16
eLeSthree Drives: 2011 Camaro SS 6sp Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Drivers Seat Posts: 1,904	Well at least I'm not alone. I figured the BMR suspension would help, but cant say it has. Then I figured the 15 inch wheels would help, but it hasn't really. So now I'm gonna throw more parts at it and do front double adjustable coilovers. Ditched the front sway bar. Everyone I know that's hooking on the street with 1000+ is turbo'd and can apply the power gradually. I'm still running the stock 3:45s. I was planning on getting the zl1 3:73 rear, but seems that might just make it worse. At least it wont explode at the track. I'm gonna try a Hoosier slick. __________________ 2011 Camaro SS---SOLD TMS Dart 427 FED M311s, ESS Tuning G4 Blower, DSX Triple FP Assembly, DSX FF, FIC1300, Mcleod RXT 1200HD, Edlebrock Pro Flo XT 1158whp 1017wtq. 2010 CTS-V A6 - "Stock" SOLD 630whp 658wtq 2024 F-150 RCSB 5.0 4x4 waiting for tunes...

03-19-2021, 06:22 AM	#17
hunter1660 Drives: 2011ss/rs camaro Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: florida Posts: 1,261	Wheelie bars may be in your future..lol __________________ . OBX LTH,Rotofab,Magnuson Heartbeat.AEM wideband, HP Tuners

03-19-2021, 06:30 AM	#18
TheFlyingBananaSS Evil Genius of Chevrolet Drives: 2017 Z06, 2019 XTS, 2013 SS Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: New York Posts: 3,260	I cant even floor it at 60mph, unless I have drag tires on, she breaks loose. And I just turned it up another notch lol. __________________ GPI SS2 VVT cam, ECS Novi 1500 supercharger, Corsa Extreme, Detroit Speed and BMR suspension, Circle D triple disc, Melling oil pump, LS2 chain tensioner, ATI 10% UD, DSX E85 kit, High Energy coils, BTR springs, LS2 Lifter trays, Titanium retainers, hardened push rods, FIC 1000 injectors, ZL1 pump, Mighty Mouse catch can, AEM gauges, Tial BOV, Richmond 3.91 gears, Custom gauge bezels, Speed Engineering headers, Stainless Works HF cats, DSX Aux pump, 710rwhp on E85.

03-19-2021, 07:35 AM	#19
racesloth Dan Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS IOM Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Georgia, USA not the other one Posts: 1,041	LOL - first world problems.... Mine will be back on the street this weekend with ZL1 3:73s __________________ Dan 2010 IOM SS YSI-B, Pat G Cam, Ported CTS-V Heads, ARH LTs MBRP 3" exhaust http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...&highlight=ysi

03-19-2021, 07:41 AM	#20
Bigdumogre Drives: 2012 Camaro SS Join Date: Dec 2019 Location: New York Posts: 1,434	I hate you all lol. Hopefully one day I’ll have these problems __________________ 2012 Camaro 2SS/RS - CSP Custom Cam 232/240 .615/.615 113 +3, Texas speed CNC heads, FTI billet triple disc converter, K&N cai, Katech ported TB, GPI Ported/rod modded manifold, Texas speed 1 7/8 headers, HFC, Flowmaster 2 chambers with x pipe, Mishimoto CC, MSD wires, Roto fab washer relocation, tru cool 40k trans cooler, apex scoop, Pedders extreme coil overs and much more!!

03-19-2021, 10:17 AM	#22
Tarendor Drives: 2012 camaro 2ss rs L99 Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: North Sioux city SD Posts: 446 View My Garage	Unexpected lane changes become the norm lol __________________ 2012 2SS/RS, L99, no cats/mufflers, Ported intake manifold, fuel rail upgrade, ID1050x injectors, Vmax throttle body, 25% UDP, GPI DOD delete, GPI SS3, GPI cnc heads, GPI – 5/16″ Hardened Pushrods, BTR trunion upgrade, BTR .660 springs, pcv revamp w/dual catch cans, Circle D 3800, full BMR suspension & bushings. ZL1 fuel pump, HPT programmed fpcm. JMS bap, Snow VC-50 methanol setup. custom 4gal methonal tank, vs7875 turbo, FMIC, precision 46mm WG, 50mm BOV, 3bar map, SJM line lock, Innovate SCG-1, Hurst shifter with tap shift mod, ×2 Holley 14" fans Diy E85, Diy auxiliary pump

03-19-2021, 10:47 AM	#24
Greenhornet2 Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SS LS3 Whipple Join Date: May 2019 Location: Connecticut Posts: 1,925	On a Hot day I can get full traction in 2nd on road course tires, first is useless. At 600WHP I could get full traction in first. I have 18" ET street I will try this year and hope to get full traction or close to it in first at my power level. I think general census is around 800WHP is max usable on the street. Though I bet 800WHP would be useless from a dig, 2nd gear rolling start maybe. __________________ Whipple 2.9 CAI ID1050x injectors ZL1 Pump JRE FPCM JMS Voltage booster JRE Rough Idle blower cam BTR .660 springs CHE trunnion kit 1 7/8 Speed Engineering Borla Atak JRE scoop 1.5" lowering springs BMR trailing arms and toe links Cradle inserts 704WHP 603WTQ 93 octane

03-19-2021, 01:11 PM	#26
bayarea408 Drives: T Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: CA Posts: 803	If it were me with your equipment. I would have went with a 275/60/15 MT Pro as a 28"+ tire softer with more side wall and taller. I dont see the benefits for you to use a shorter 27.8" tire aired up, even less aired down, wider shorter less aggressive compound tire. Considering you are a Manual car and the driveline shock is more violent in power delivery Bias Ply tires may hook nicer but act more sketchy at higher freeway speeds. So either a bias ply or the most aggressive successful small radial. The key elements to getting it to hook is going to be in the front shocks that commit the weight transfer. you have a BMR rear kit so i assume all the bushings and parts to equip a 15" wheel properly are there. Bring the car to a proper alignment shop and have it dialed in for a more drag racing approach, proper toe and camber is huge at these levels with racing rubber.