Time for a new cam

[Gordy87]

So I used the green O-ring, and I can tell you, I wish that thing would have come off as easy as it went back on. And I even took the old 1 apart for more clearance.

But between maybe 1hr yesterday morning and 1 1/2hrs this morning, I have pump, cam, and oil pan bolted back down and ready to move on. Gonna catch some sleep, get ready for work tonight, then prob gonna throw on the cover, WP and Alt back on this puppy, then its on to the heads. Got them all cleaned up, just gotta get the springs on.

[PepeLePew]

Originally Posted by Gordy87

As far as the O-rings that were in my gasket set, they looked very simular, but green one seemed to be a little thicker, could have been an illusion, in any case, I will double check it in the a.m. for safe measure. And since I'm here, would there be any benefit to milling the heads while there off, taking PTV into account? Thanks again guys.

You could run a thinner gasket like a .040 thickness and be fine with PTV. If you mill the heads instead or as well, you may need to check PTV. Between taking material off the heads and thinner gaskets, you are probably safe in the .030 - .040 range of total reduction.

Like Chris said, you'll need to make sure to get the correct shorter length pushrods and check them in the motor before final assembly. And I would certainly clay test the PTV clearance to make sure you are still at the .08 to .1 clearance you need to be safe.

[sixty9fordkiller]

Originally Posted by PepeLePew

.....I would certainly clay test the PTV clearance to make sure you are still at the .08 to .1 clearance you need to be safe.

x2

With the heads off its a no brainer. there is absolutely no reason not to do it ESPECIALLY if you do go with a thinner head gasket

[zz430camaro]

Remember that should be done with a solid lifter which will need a adjustable pushrods and checking spring

[christianchevell]

Greens the color, remember on reassembly at TDC checking your preload which should be in the .045 to .060 golden zone you have to go about 2/3 a turn as .047 x 1.7 = .079 per turn as its thread pitch of stud times rocker ratio which multiplies your turn and one whole turn is too much even for a 1.8 rocker ls7 which it preload is .070 which is higher than the max for a ls3 even using the same lifter...

I also do a break in with br30, Good luck.

[Gordy87]

Ok, so I already have the Cometic .051 gaskets, and have decided not to mill heads. I haven't gotten a chance to fool with it much last several days though. Hopefully I can get back at it some the next few mornings when I get home from work. I didnt start doing a mild port/polish on the heads just to kill time. Nothing major, and not trying to remove a lot of material, as this is just something to learn and kill a little time. Will take a few pics and post them when I get some in the morn.

[Gordy87]

So been tied up and haven't been able to work on the car much. Got the heads ported, if you want to call it that, really just took down the seams and textured surface. Gonna try to get this thing back together this weekend I hope. Does anyone know right off, how much PTV their is on the factory cam?

[KW Baraka]

Originally Posted by Gordy87

…..Does anyone know right off, how much PTV their is on the factory cam?

Seriously......so much that I didn't think anyone outside of GN had even cared to measure.

But I was wrong.

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...tick-boomerang

According to Super Chevy.....they measured .150+ inch on the intake and exhaust....that's if they actually measured it.

KW

[Gordy87]

Yea, not that it matters, but I was just curious if anyone had actually measured it. Just figured it would be one of those little tid bits of info, that is worthless, yet comparative.

[Gordy87]

Finally fired mine off today to start the break-in. Pressure looks good so far. Been held up since last Thurs b/c I lost (think my son got) the stupid little spring clamps for the heater hose relocation that I did, and of course NO auto parts store under the sun had any around me. While doing the heat cycles and filling the coolant, my temps are jumping up quick, which I know they will until radiator is full and air pockets circulated out of system, but does 235-240 sound normal, if it is pretty full and not taking on more coolant. I had slight issues on 1st cam, but not to this extent. Note also though, that on the 1st cam, I only removed WP and not heads. Temps even with old cam were alsways around 210, and would shoot up during idle. At what point should I get concerned with the temp? I have searched, and the issue, is almost like asking "which oil". Everyone has a different answer. I know they will vary, thats why I am curious at what point I should start to worry and think of shutting it down. During the 1st cycle, I shut off at 240. And 2nd around 235. Any ideas guys? Thanks in advance

[christianchevell]

To get the air pockets out you should have the front of the car up slightly to work the pockets out as reported on here many times, I Use BR30 for break in oil and LS30 for oil from driven racing, none better. But then again I am a spaz about everything being right it costs so much. I have the tune just right for the fans on early and a 160 degree thermostat and NGK tr6ix etc...… And use the best tuner around here in another state even..LOL… SO check some posts usually you would run it with the cap off then put it back on after it starts to warm.... Good Luck If you do not have a pusher fan operating while breaking in the cam just sitting it will rise in temp pretty fast..... My break ins were done on a dyno with two fans moving air, cycling the springs a couple times is needed which you have done...? Other than that a 20-30 minute varied rpm run is what Chevy recommends and what My tuner does and then dumps oil..... For my whole new engine I ran two rounds of BR30 then did VR1 conventional for three thousand miles just to get the warranty and good valve seals etc.....

[Gordy87]

[QUOTE=christianchevell;10592039]To get the air pockets out you should have the front of the car up slightly to work the pockets out as reported on here many times...

Ahhh yes. This I forgot. I did it the 1st cam, but neglected to this time.

My break ins were done on a dyno with two fans moving air, cycling the springs a couple times is needed which you have done...

Great idea, I actually have a large Snap-On squirrel cage fan that really moves some air, and I'm sure it will at least be better than not.


As always guys, I value all of the opinions and help that everyone has given me along the way. I would post an idle clip, but I've never been able to get a video to upload.

[Gordy87]

Got her all back together. Installed a heater hose relocate kit for a 2012+. Wish they would have done them like this from the start. Looks a lot cleaner. Also done a little cleaning on the wiring, and also working on some custom fabricated coil covers that will also cover the fuel injection wiring. Hopefully they look as good as I invision them, w/o being a bulky as the factory cover.

[Chris49066SS]

Originally Posted by Gordy87

Got her all back together. Installed a heater hose relocate kit for a 2012+. Wish they would have done them like this from the start. Looks a lot cleaner. Also done a little cleaning on the wiring, and also working on some custom fabricated coil covers that will also cover the fuel injection wiring. Hopefully they look as good as I invision them, w/o being a bulky as the factory cover.

Did you polish your valve covers? That looks real nice