11-11-2014, 08:10 AM | #1 |
Dyno Show Queen LOL
Drives: 16 SS & 17 ZL1 Both Yellow Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Houston
Posts: 4,345
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Sway bar install question?
Does the motor have to be lifted up a few inches to slide the front sway bars in/out on all bars? Or if the car is on the lift with tires off can it be slid through?
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11-11-2014, 08:21 AM | #2 |
Todd
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what do the directions say..
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11-11-2014, 09:14 AM | #3 |
Dyno Show Queen LOL
Drives: 16 SS & 17 ZL1 Both Yellow Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Houston
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NO idea I haven't bought any yet just planning ahead..
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Kong Ported 2650, Crawford Racing Port Injection, Weapon X 112mm Adapter, NW112mm TB, Livernois Ported LT4 Heads, Lingenfelter GT32 stealth cam, Haltech Elite, and Carbon by Trufiber |
11-11-2014, 09:23 AM | #4 |
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I replaced my V6 ones with SS bars and I was able to get them in & out. It takes a little work to get the right angle and everything, but it can be done.
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11-11-2014, 09:34 AM | #5 |
Drives: Race Car Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Seffner, FL
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Lifting the engine a couple inches does make it easier. Supposedly, it can be done without lifting the engine, but will probably save a few thrown tools and cuss words if you do!!!
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11-11-2014, 10:04 AM | #6 |
The Mark of Excellence
Drives: 2010 ABM 1SS RS LS3 Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Smallest State in the Union
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I installed mine (BMR) in a confined space with only the car jacked up and the front wheels off. No swearing or tool tossing required.
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11-11-2014, 10:26 AM | #7 |
2010 2SS/RS M6
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Auckland, NZ
Posts: 1,482
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It's possible, but very difficult. To lift the motor, you only have to loosen a couple of bolts (you don't have to completely remove them), that way you can drop it back to where it was without any motor/trans/driveshaft alignment issues.
Loosen them all the way, then put them back in with a 1/2 twist to hold them in place. Then lift the engine. Should give you the extra couple of inches to make it go a lot smoother/easier. Similar scenario with the rear bar vs the exhaust. You can swap the bar without touching the exhaust, but removing the axle-back makes things a lot easier.
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11-11-2014, 10:27 AM | #8 |
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Here's some instructions. There are likely also a couple YouTube videos available. That's what I used for my lowering springs.
http://www.phastekperformance.com/20...sway-sb030.htm
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Taco's 2014 SS
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11-11-2014, 11:43 AM | #9 |
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I did not have to lift my motor.. It was a bit of a pain, but I was able to twist the new one back in after a few F-bombs.
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11-11-2014, 11:59 AM | #10 |
ROAD COURSE JUNKIE
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I installed the rear Pfadt bar no problems. After a few cuss words I raised the motor up a tad made life a lot easier. It really depends on the size of the bar you get. The stock one came out fine the thick PFADT did not want to go in easily.
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11-11-2014, 12:55 PM | #11 |
'It's an experiment'
Drives: [COTW 2/09/15] '11 GPI LSA SC Z/LE Join Date: May 2014
Location: Dallas TX
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I did mine. Jack stands, tires off, and raised the engine. 30 minutes to get it out and in. It's no big deal to raise the engine. Just a couple of inches and you're good. Do support the raised engine though...
-Don |
11-11-2014, 01:01 PM | #12 |
Drives: Chevys at the limit Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 9,621
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Save yourself some time, trouble, cuss words and scratches on your new sway bar and just lift the engine up a little bit. In this case trying to skip labor ends up in additional labor.
Best regards, Tyler 888-308-6007 |
11-11-2014, 01:17 PM | #14 |
Drives: 2010 IBM SS Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: CA USA
Posts: 6
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As already stated, it will depend on the bar. I've installed two different sets of Pfadt bars, only the ZL1 spec bars needed the motor raised. Loosen the motor mount bolts on the bottom of the frame and using a screw jack you can lift the motor up gently. The jack I used had a large rubber base to cushion and I used a lift for the car. Right tire comes off and away you go.
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