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Old 03-22-2018, 07:54 PM   #1
guttedmiata
 
Drives: 92 LFX miata
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Max RPM increase

Has anyone spun their LFX higher than 7200? I can't seem to find anything searching this forum or anywhere else for that matter.

I know I'm a newb on here, but please don't give me all the typical responses of stock power peaking at 6800, etc, etc.

I am only interested in the maximum RPM that someone has achieved.

Thanks!
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Old 03-22-2018, 11:17 PM   #2
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It wasn't a big deal, both forums are for the V6. They're extremely similar, the LLT was just the first generation and mild changes were made for the LFX. But anyway, other than Magnum @ 7500, most IPF tunes would change the redline to 7300 on a stock engine. I dunno if you'd wanna go higher than that. What is your goal?
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Old 03-23-2018, 05:34 AM   #3
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The goal is to not have to shift to 3rd on an autocross course. I am putting an lfx in a Miata dedicated racecar. With the rear diff I’m running, I have gearing options from 3.23 to 3.90. With either the mv5 from a camaro or the mv7 from a caddy, using the 3.23 rear gear nets me low to mid 60s in mph in 2nd gear. If I jump to the 3.90 rear gear, I’d be using 3rd gear instead of 2nd and would net me middle 70s. I need to be between these two options. So the thought was running the 3.23 and using 2nd, but spinning the motor higher to get the speed out of 2nd. However, I would need to spin it closer to 8k. Finding out if it will spin 7800-8000 myself could cost me an engine. So I was hoping someone else had already had the huevos to find out.
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Old 03-23-2018, 07:36 AM   #4
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Depends if the valve springs will suffer float at that time. I'm using MACE springs which are 85 lb.
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Old 03-23-2018, 09:30 AM   #5
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Honestly with your goals, it sounds like you should go 3.9x gears, or if you can use them 4.11s. Yeah the LFX doesn't make a lot of low end torque but if you can just stay in 3rd gear I think that would accomplish your goal nearly similar to what you're shooting for.

Or maybe you just wanna build the LFX to scream, in which case I certainly can't tell you not to. But you'd definitely be the first to find the weak points.
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Old 03-23-2018, 03:34 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MagnumForceGB View Post
Depends if the valve springs will suffer float at that time. I'm using MACE springs which are 85 lb.
I would be looking into doing the cams and springs knowing that it's gonna need to breath at least a little better over 7k anyway.

Quote:
=Honestly with your goals, it sounds like you should go 3.9x gears, or if you can use them 4.11s. Yeah the LFX doesn't make a lot of low end torque but if you can just stay in 3rd gear I think that would accomplish your goal nearly similar to what you're shooting for.
If I had the option of 4.11s 3rd would be great. What I'm worried about is that torque in the lower rpms in 3rd. On a tight course there are instances when the speed may get pretty low and I'm also trying to avoid the downshift in those times. I'm just not confident 3rd with 3.90s will effectively pull me out of a tight corner.

Unfortunately it looks like I'm probably stuck testing it a couple different ways to see which works better until I can be in a position to be the guy that finds the rpm limit.
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Old 03-23-2018, 05:20 PM   #7
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Well, in that case my suggestion is to see if you can run shorter tires in combination with 3.90 gears. It would be much easier than trying to build the motor to turn over 7500.
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Old 03-23-2018, 05:58 PM   #8
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What MPH are you shooting for? I'm at 67 MPH in 2nd gear at 7500 RPM with 3.91 gears and stock sized tires. Your best torque should be about 5000 RPM, so a 2500 RPM powerband would be great still.
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Old 03-23-2018, 07:00 PM   #9
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Thanks for your thoughts on this guys.

Running a 23.5x12 road race slick on a 16" wheel. Well you would think going to a shorter tire would be the simple answer, which would make sense in a lot of scenarios aside from mine, unfortunately going shorter means also going skinnier. On a car built to go around corners losing contact patch area isn't really something I'm looking to do. I could go to a different size wheel and tire combo and get a little bit shorter with the same width. Problem with that is it's more expensive than blowing up a used motor pushing the RPM limit. A new set of lightweight wheels and race tires would run about $4k. Of course I could blow up a $1,500 motor to find out that I can't push it past 7500 RPMs, and then still be faced with the same problem.

The ultimate goal is to be able to run the course in one gear without shifting. What that basically requires is being able to achieve about 70mph and still have enough bottom end to pull out of a corner at 30mph.

As I said, a 4.1x gear would get me pretty close to where I want to be but I'm running a getrag differential out of a CTS and there is no option in that gearing. My options are 3.23, 3.42, 3.73, 3.91. I'm running an axle specifically made that goes into the getrag rear end and into the Miata spindles. So again, I could look at changing the entire rear end setup to coincide with something that would give me the option of a 4.10 gear, but at a huge expense.
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Old 03-23-2018, 07:03 PM   #10
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Racecar = expensive.
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Old 03-24-2018, 09:09 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guttedmiata View Post
Racecar = expensive.
Facts.

If you have the wheel width, you could try changing the contact patch and aspect ratio though, you know? Like I know you listed an imperial tire size, but I'll talk in metric because it's easier to explain. But if you go to a slightly wider size, say the difference between 245 and 255 width, but a different aspect ratio, say a 245/40 vs a 255/35, you'd gain width and still be shorter. Again though, I don't know if you have that kind of option depending on sizes for slicks.

With an LFX, I definitely don't know if running 1 gear is the way to go though. It just doesn't have that kind of low end power; caveat to that, however, is that a Miata is what, half the weight of a Camaro V6, so you can probably do it anyway. Maybe a slightly taller tire with 3.23 gears then, the opposite of 4.1x and shorter tires? Lol. And only use 2nd instead of 3rd.

Edit: can you get taller gears than 3.23?
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Old 03-26-2018, 07:08 AM   #12
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As a newer person in the car mod game, this conversation is fascinating for me to follow. I have no idea what half of the comments mean, but I'm enjoying trying to figure out what the **** is going on lol.
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Old 01-18-2019, 05:35 PM   #13
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Not to be "that guy" that brings back old threads, but...

I'm also curious about increasing the revs on the lfx. Understanding that the computer sets the rev limit, that can be changed with computer tuning.

I would instead like to focus on the mechanical limitations of the valvetrain. What is the oem valve spring #? I know mace offers 85 and 90lb springs for comparison.

What really concerns me, is that the rockers are only held in place by the cams. If one did experience valve float, I would be worried the rocker would slip loose.

Personally, I'd want to take this engine to at least 8,000.
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Old 01-18-2019, 11:27 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V6Vega View Post
Not to be "that guy" that brings back old threads, but...

I'm also curious about increasing the revs on the lfx. Understanding that the computer sets the rev limit, that can be changed with computer tuning.

I would instead like to focus on the mechanical limitations of the valvetrain. What is the oem valve spring #? I know mace offers 85 and 90lb springs for comparison.

What really concerns me, is that the rockers are only held in place by the cams. If one did experience valve float, I would be worried the rocker would slip loose.

Personally, I'd want to take this engine to at least 8,000.
Stock valve springs are 56-61 lb (Work Manual specs). I hit 8300 RPM in my LLT with MACE springs and cams.
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