TVS 2300 efficiency range RPM, pulley size, and engine size

[SSE 4 2SS]

Cleaned up by request... Play nice people... Some of that was funny....

[Danny_Harris]

Originally Posted by Turbo99

Jamie,

The one of the charts have OD cog and I understand belt slip and all the variables. I want to see if anyone can come up with a RPM of the blower where it falls off. Everything else can be figured close enough the play with.

From what I can see it 18,000-19000 is about as fast as you want to go and still be efficient. With that being said I just wanted to see if other see the same data and from there you should be able to calculate what pulley setup will get you there and as you add cam, head work, compression, belt slip and other well that doesn't matter if you already are running a setup and can figure your loss.

I never been one to just say because so & so said it doesn't work it must not work. I just want to see how others interpret the data.
From what I see on the charts it looks like if you spin the motor 18K RPM on a smaller engine the efficiency falls off, where the same blower at the same speed on a bigger engine make less boost but is more efficient.

You have to turn the blower such a great amount of quicker on the 416 to make the same support as on a 376. The high temperature you make by turning the blower so quick refutes any addition you might have made in the force.

[JANNETTYRACING]

The data you collected is all accurate, how you inturpret it in the car is another.

There is a big crutch with this package for high Horsepower and it is the Belt drive system.

A 10 rib drive is the best way to get you where you want to be but then you have to deal with the restrictions in the the blower manifold and intercooler.

Most all of the testing data does not include the blower manifold with intercooler.

It is obvious that the larger blowers will perform better and carry the power to the finish line.

Making power for 4 seconds is different then making power for 9 seconds we see this all the time

Take a lesson from GM they put a 4.0 blower on a 327 in the COPO and made 1200 HP.

Going up on cubic inch is effectively the same as putting a smaller blower on your 376 and trying to make the same power.

If you looking to do a 416 go to a whipple 4.0 or YSI and take advantage of it.

There is a term I use often when talking about turning blowers faster, Diminishing Returns!

The faster you spin the blower the More HP it takes to turn it and the More Heat it makes.

Ted.

[Turbo99]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

The data you collected is all accurate, how you inturpret it in the car is another.

There is a big crutch with this package for high Horsepower and it is the Belt drive system.

A 10 rib drive is the best way to get you where you want to be but then you have to deal with the restrictions in the the blower manifold and intercooler.

Most all of the testing data does not include the blower manifold with intercooler.

It is obvious that the larger blowers will perform better and carry the power to the finish line.

Making power for 4 seconds is different then making power for 9 seconds we see this all the time

Take a lesson from GM they put a 4.0 blower on a 327 in the COPO and made 1200 HP.

Going up on cubic inch is effectively the same as putting a smaller blower on your 376 and trying to make the same power.

If you looking to do a 416 go to a whipple 4.0 or YSI and take advantage of it.

There is a term I use often when talking about turning blowers faster, Diminishing Returns!

The faster you spin the blower the More HP it takes to turn it and the More Heat it makes.

Ted.

If the bolded statement is true, then that is pretty much false advertising and is pointless data...hell at that point I wouldn't even call it data.

I know bigger and better choices are out there. But as I said in the beginning I was wanting to do a build that I could use the Maggie on and make some gains but in the long run be able to use a centri or 4. Whipple or turbo and then make some bigger power but not have issues as long as I wanted to keep the 2300.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by Turbo99

If the bolded statement is true, then that is pretty much false advertising and is pointless data...hell at that point I wouldn't even call it data.

I know bigger and better choices are out there. But as I said in the beginning I was wanting to do a build that I could use the Maggie on and make some gains but in the long run be able to use a centri or 4. Whipple or turbo and then make some bigger power but not have issues as long as I wanted to keep the 2300.

The data is accurate just not specific to any 1 kit that uses the 2300 supercharger head unit.

You will not have any issues duplicating your current power or even improving on it slightly due to keeping the compression, and depending if you step up to a 10 rib drive.

Just don't expect to make any large improvements in ET.

If your ready I have a 416 ready to go

[Turbo99]

LOL not ready yet, I have some things I need to pay for before that....or the wife will get grouchy...LOL so it will be next summer or fall. I am really thinking of the 3.9 stroke and like a 400ish CI but that doesn't seem to be real plentiful in crank options.

I am running a 3.1 front pulley now with 1:1 rear and make 10.5-11 psi with your lope cam and made 680 at LaMotta's dyno and stock it was 370 same dyno. So I would think if I did OD rears with the same front I would be ok on my 8 rib set up on a larger engine without too much slip unless. I don't seem to have ALOT of slip now I do have some, but I have had the same belt for awhile now and its not worn or broken and I get very little belt dust on my engine cover by the pulley but there is some.

[willhe64]

About the belt slip. Is that not caused by the increased resistance of running higher boost? Not caused by the smaller pulley.

If so, then if bigger engines make less boost, you should be able to pulley down to the same boost levels without causing the slip that smaller engines have with the same pulley size.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by willhe64

About the belt slip. Is that not caused by the increased resistance of running higher boost? Not caused by the smaller pulley.

If so, then if bigger engines make less boost, you should be able to pulley down to the same boost levels without causing the slip that smaller engines have with the same pulley size.

All Three, More blower RPM is More HP to turn, higher boost is more Hp to turn, and less Pulley surface to grab on to.

[2SS45th]

I'm not slipping my belt with the LPE 10 rib kit. 2.95 pulley up front, OD cogs in back and 6% OD up front too. Making 16.5 psi on a very lopey blower cam (ground for centri) and ported heads on my 416. LPE can cure any belt slip you have, it'll just cost you an arm and a leg.

[Turbo99]

Originally Posted by 2SS45th

I'm not slipping my belt with the LPE 10 rib kit. 2.95 pulley up front, OD cogs in back and 6% OD up front too. Making 16.5 psi on a very lopey blower cam (ground for centri) and ported heads on my 416. LPE can cure any belt slip you have, it'll just cost you an arm and a leg.

What does your car run at the track? That is what seems to be the issue is maintaining the power for an entire pass not just a dyno run. I am having a hard time grasping it myself with the pulley I am running and still being able to OD it seems like 14-16psi on a comparable 416 (cam & compression) it should be doable......but yet not many have proven the numbers at the track.

[Supercharged SS]

Originally Posted by Turbo99

What does your car run at the track?

The bottom of his time slip says SLOW!

[2SS45th]

Yeah it does, haven't made a full pass with the car yet. It ran a 16 through 2nd gear before I shut it down and coasted through the trap at 62mph. I'm ditching the Maggie now, pretty sad when your diesel can run 11s and your drag car can't yet.

[Turbo99]

Originally Posted by 2SS45th

Yeah it does, haven't made a full pass with the car yet. It ran a 16 through 2nd gear before I shut it down and coasted through the trap at 62mph. I'm ditching the Maggie now, pretty sad when your diesel can run 11s and your drag car can't yet.

LOL I have had that issue before, I had 7.3 back years ago and ran low 12's but it blew up a few times and cracked 3 blocks.....diesels are expensive. I just have a 6.4 PSD now with a tuner,exhaust and intake 550hp good truck and doesn't break.LOL

[H-E]

Originally Posted by Turbo99

What does your car run at the track? That is what seems to be the issue is maintaining the power for an entire pass not just a dyno run. I am having a hard time grasping it myself with the pulley I am running and still being able to OD it seems like 14-16psi on a comparable 416 (cam & compression) it should be doable......but yet not many have proven the numbers at the track.

We have 100s of 10 second passes with a 427 then 402 and 2300 this with a 6 speed stick which would be 9s with an auto .We have several 10.00s with a small shot in the same car rowing gears. You have a 10 second car now you just need to plant it,Jamies car runs great and if it was a stick it would be a mid to high 10 second car . Actually he has only made a few 9.90 something passes when everything was perfect so I would consider it a low 10 second car without gas and a high 9 second car on the gas. We ran 10.40s with an old 122 and a stock bottom end ls1 8 years ago ,a Maggie will run the numbers,most guys ditch them because there told they cant do it. As far as cubes theres no doubt in my mind if Jamie had a 416 motor in his car when Ted started with it he would be going just as fast or faster ,there going to get it done either way. I was against big cubes with the 2300 but my 454 with 11-1 is a blast and I cant say anything bad about it other than gas millage....You have a street car,you have a stick shift.....do the cubes ....I would give magnason a call and ask them who to talk to to get big power from the Maggie and pick there brain...Good luck and if I can help you give me a call anytime.