Power Loss w High Fluttering Idle

[Cash, Gas & A SS]

Originally Posted by Olddudesrule

Agree with this^. That tach signal "flutter" seems normal, as does the cold start readings. Since you haven't really described the "lack of power" or the mileage drop, hard to quantify that....

Working on the fuel economy part of it. Obviously I don't have a dyno. I know this is stupid to say but I'm guaging with the following: in second gear at 50-60 kph/31-37mph and if I hit the throttle it would throw me back in my seat but now it doesn't really.

Maybe I'm just crazy about the mileage and power but before this fiasco my tach was rock solid. I know thats how old cars get but this car only has 34,000 kilometers/21,000miles.

[Avenging Orange]

These V8's have a fairly aggressive cam (at least by manufacturer standards)..they will feel like they are rocking side to side...the idle will be a bit rough....nature of the beast.
Not saying there are not other issues...but idle is fine. Reset your avg mpg in the info center and drive it a while. See what shakes out.
Good luck.

[Jrichards73]

Originally Posted by Cash, Gas & A SS

"old cars get this way".

Don't let this person touch your car. Sounds like a 5v issue, or the air intake isn't fully seated on the throttle body and your getting stay air in. Make sure the pcv hose is still connected, wires aren't pulled, etc. It should come back if it isn't corrected. A couple drive cycles should do it. The resistor in my Throttle body changed so my 5v references were slowly separating and the car ran for months with a weird engine surge then drag feeling. It finally got a wide enough gap between the +5 and 0 to throw a code and go into reduced power mode. New TB and its solid. At least you know the area to look in, car is pretty forgiving so just because the light is off doesn't mean you're 100%. Its your car and if it doesn't feel right to YOU, then its not RIGHT.

[christianchevell]

Get MAF cleaner and clean the MAF right, reassemble tight any air leaking by the MAF and you get screwed readings....My MAF had one screw a little loose the other day on my CAI don't like the allen head screws much.... The car started harder than normal, more decal popping , all the traction control lights came on, the tach stopped working.... Took it home..First disconnect battery, a must resets and calibrates... for extended time, while cleaning maf with maf cleaner..... then reassemble and make sure it tight, also I cleaned my air filter and my catch can checked electrical connections etc....

Cars fine after reattaching battery..... just a little loose screw caused that. imagine a loose hose on the catch can it can cause stalling/ codes lack of running like it has a bad MAP sensor that's the Manifold absolute pressure.... next time cut it off and walk it on..the way the a/c belts meant to be done. Good Luck.

[Cash, Gas & A SS]

Got a smoke test done today at a different mechanic shop. No vacuum leaks. They were curious, so looked at MAF connector and agreed pinouts looked good. They thought maybe wiring to MAF couldve been damaged so the checked electrical continuity and didn't find anything.

They told me after this that they did an idle relearn.

EDIT: When they were curious they scanned the car and said there was a pending code. Said it was an IAT code. Not sure if this matters.

[Cash, Gas & A SS]

Originally Posted by Olddudesrule

Agree with this^. That tach signal "flutter" seems normal, as does the cold start readings. Since you haven't really described the "lack of power" or the mileage drop, hard to quantify that....

Went through a tank of 91 Octane, getting 14.6 L/100km or roughly 16.1 mpg.
Before the rest I was at 11.2 L/100km or 21 mpg.

Mostly highway miles with a little bit of pedal to the metal. I live quite a ways from town and one of the first nights wanted to try to put some clicks on it to see if MaF would adjust so I drove out of town. (more highway)

[Cash, Gas & A SS]

Originally Posted by Jrichards73

Don't let this person touch your car. Sounds like a 5v issue, or the air intake isn't fully seated on the throttle body and your getting stay air in. Make sure the pcv hose is still connected, wires aren't pulled, etc. It should come back if it isn't corrected. A couple drive cycles should do it. The resistor in my Throttle body changed so my 5v references were slowly separating and the car ran for months with a weird engine surge then drag feeling. It finally got a wide enough gap between the +5 and 0 to throw a code and go into reduced power mode. New TB and its solid. At least you know the area to look in, car is pretty forgiving so just because the light is off doesn't mean you're 100%. Its your car and if it doesn't feel right to YOU, then its not RIGHT.

Ya, thanks man. I really appreciate you takin me seriously. Hopefully one day the issue is resolved but I agree... It's not 100%
I was thinking maybe leak at throttle body or just after the filter but ^^ smoke test showing nothing.

[Cash, Gas & A SS]

.

[Eguash610]

I’ve recently ran into this problem as well but I have a 2015 RS V6. After I changed the spark plugs and went to the car on it was garbage from the start took a while to start and everything. Turns out the plugs I got weren’t giving much charge so I got new ones and the sparks are fine same with the packs. But it still sounds bad and sounds like the throttle is backfiring along with tons of misfires

[Camaro__ss]

Mine behaved this way when the aftermarket air cleaner became dislodged and allowed unfiltered/unrestricted air into the throttle body. Check your work, make sure no vacuum leak.

[Greenhornet2]

Before I read that you had it smoke tested I really thought this was unmetered air getting in to the engine. ALL signs point that way. MAF is easy to read with a scan tool. IAT as well, coolant temp as well.