New to forum

[Shhlomaro]

Hi all,.
New to forum, cant seem to find info using search tab?

So if this question is in wrong place im sorry.

I have a question about buying a high mileage 2010 2 SS RS 104.5k miles
Car is at Chevy dealership price is 15k dropped from 21k way over priced.

Im sure the LS3s are reliable, but very concerned about mileage my plans for car that will be DD are texas speed stage 2 cam with push rods and springs and TS 1.7/8 long tubes.possibly oil pump because of mileage and tune of course.

Is it viable to buy such a high mileage car is my question, planning on looking at car today.

[G8One2]

I paid 24k for my 2014 2SS M6 with 29k miles last July. Price seems high to me, even at 15k. The mileage would have me wonder whats been done to the car and how well its been taken care of. Personally, i wont buy high mileage cars, but i understand not everyone can do that.

[Shhlomaro]

Its all stock.I haven't seen it yet but looks pretty clean .

[G8One2]

I guess its worth only what someone is willing to pay for it. $13,500 is a fair price with that mileage in my area according to KBB. Not sure that I'd pay 15k unless it has brand new tires, brakes etc....

[Sparksl]

NO!

[Shhlomaro]

Originally Posted by Sparksl

NO!

Cant be as unreliable than my BMW 335i?

[G8One2]

BMW has a horrible resale value because they are expensive to fix and maintain.

[Shhlomaro]

That's why im getting out of it as fast as I can
im just strapped for cash right now

[christianchevell]

You would want a good engine cleaning internals as your ingesting oil those of us keep out with catch cans for the blow by, also a LS7 type dog bone chain dampener as the stock ls3 ones break and fail, and as long as your doing the Pump which will have to be snuck in the pan with a new high volume replacement you should invest in a good c5r timing chain, and since you want to cam it you have to pull the heads, you simply cannot expect the roller lifters with so many mile on them to work on another cam they do track the cam so $100 for new lifters and …….

Since you have to do that, you need new head gaskets and new TTY bolts to attach the heads, and of course camming your going to want Stainless long tube headers and high flow cats and a good Cold Air induction with a dyno tune unless you buy a handheld and get tunes from a vendor for the mods you will have....then buy a good book to read how to know what your doing and then rent or buy all the specialty tools, And get a cam with nice 8620 core and myself I use Drivee racing br30 for break in....yes I break in a high spring pressure high lift cam, and then down the road every 25k or so plan on changing those springs you install.... which have to be hanging in there with the Preload/lash being at about .045-.060 or 3/4ish a turn after zero. And don't forget that pushrod length measurer and good advice...or a shop to do it for like $$$$$$$$$$$

Now of course you could go milder spring and lower lift like stock and not have to worry about springs as in the 525 HP crate engine ASA cam... But also you may want to eventually invest in new trailing arms and toes to avoid wheel hop, and make sure you have a good tune killing off some torque management and adding in the fan turning on earlier and stuff..... oh and that 160 degree thermostat and NGK tr6ix or tr55 etc or even just stock plugs to swap out the old.....and more radiator fluid most likely a a/c recharge …… Just off the top of my head, good luck...…….. frankly with the miles on it not having owned it and babied it....I would wonder like crazy if it had the trans done with a new clutch also and most likely just buy a crate and stick it in there and go ASA cammed with the bolt ons…. If its not been using the right oil.....well a ls3 can only be over honed .020, and a ls7 even worse at .005, Investing in a engine that may have ran crap oil.....not knowing who treated it how.....meh....I would just buy a much lower mile 13 up since it had all the upgrades or at least a 12 and then think of cam because its not cheap and not so easy...…

And since your not that familiar with the platform the suspension changed for the better in 12 going from fe3 to fe4, verts have milder, autos are l99 with DOD / AFM a whole other nightmare to deal with down the road, you have to deal with belted power steering with a pump not electric power steering like 12-13 on, also most likely its not going to have the Nice HUD which is cool, no back up camera or one that's in the rear view, but hey at least its got a CD player and sweet PHAT Arse…….. But higher mile hopefully it gotten new brakes a couple times and some new rotors etc..etc all the required maintenance over time...………..like changes in radiator fluid to stop it from being acidic pitting aluminum, new trans and rear fluid changes...etc by the manual...…… lots to think about...….. Like looking at Cars.com and comparing...….

[Camarokid1996]

15k is still a bit high for a car with that mileage. Being an LS3 car, the only thing I'd be concerned about (if the car is in good shape) would be the clutch and rear end. Thoroughly check it and I'd recommend changing those things anyways when doing the cam swap

[Shhlomaro]

Originally Posted by christianchevell

You would want a good engine cleaning internals as your ingesting oil those of us keep out with catch cans for the blow by, also a LS7 type dog bone chain dampener as the stock ls3 ones break and fail, and as long as your doing the Pump which will have to be snuck in the pan with a new high volume replacement you should invest in a good c5r timing chain, and since you want to cam it you have to pull the heads, you simply cannot expect the roller lifters with so many mile on them to work on another cam they do track the cam so $100 for new lifters and …….

Since you have to do that, you need new head gaskets and new TTY bolts to attach the heads, and of course camming your going to want Stainless long tube headers and high flow cats and a good Cold Air induction with a dyno tune unless you buy a handheld and get tunes from a vendor for the mods you will have....then buy a good book to read how to know what your doing and then rent or buy all the specialty tools, And get a cam with nice 8620 core and myself I use Drivee racing br30 for break in....yes I break in a high spring pressure high lift cam, and then down the road every 25k or so plan on changing those springs you install.... which have to be hanging in there with the Preload/lash being at about .045-.060 or 3/4ish a turn after zero. And don't forget that pushrod length measurer and good advice...or a shop to do it for like $$$$$$$$$$$

Now of course you could go milder spring and lower lift like stock and not have to worry about springs as in the 525 HP crate engine ASA cam... But also you may want to eventually invest in new trailing arms and toes to avoid wheel hop, and make sure you have a good tune killing off some torque management and adding in the fan turning on earlier and stuff..... oh and that 160 degree thermostat and NGK tr6ix or tr55 etc or even just stock plugs to swap out the old.....and more radiator fluid most likely a a/c recharge …… Just off the top of my head, good luck...…….. frankly with the miles on it not having owned it and babied it....I would wonder like crazy if it had the trans done with a new clutch also and most likely just buy a crate and stick it in there and go ASA cammed with the bolt ons…. If its not been using the right oil.....well a ls3 can only be over honed .020, and a ls7 even worse at .005, Investing in a engine that may have ran crap oil.....not knowing who treated it how.....meh....I would just buy a much lower mile 13 up since it had all the upgrades or at least a 12 and then think of cam because its not cheap and not so easy...…

And since your not that familiar with the platform the suspension changed for the better in 12 going from fe3 to fe4, verts have milder, autos are l99 with DOD / AFM a whole other nightmare to deal with down the road, you have to deal with belted power steering with a pump not electric power steering like 12-13 on, also most likely its not going to have the Nice HUD which is cool, no back up camera or one that's in the rear view, but hey at least its got a CD player and sweet PHAT Arse…….. But higher mile hopefully it gotten new brakes a couple times and some new rotors etc..etc all the required maintenance over time...………..like changes in radiator fluid to stop it from being acidic pitting aluminum, new trans and rear fluid changes...etc by the manual...…… lots to think about...….. Like looking at Cars.com and comparing...….

Awesome advice, for starters just going to do long tubes, intake and short shifter and tune then down the line cam etc. depending on if I get this car with such high miles.

[InFiD3ViL]

I just couldn't see paying that much, not with those miles for a 2010.

If you have decent credit, I would highly recommend you pass on that and keep shopping. You will find a better deal.

[pyroguy]

First off, welcome to the forums!

Secondly, $15k is still a little high for that mileage, but not bad. See if they'll drop another $1k-$2k. As for reliability, the SS Camaro is a very reliable platform. Even with that mileage, as long as it hasn't been beaten on too bad, it will run a long time. Even if it has been beaten on it should still be good for at least another 50-100k. Check the clutch fluid as the brakes and clutch share the same fluid.

[Shan]

I paid 14,95.00 for my ls it’s a 2013 it had only 59,000 miles on it! See if you can talk them down or maybe look somewhere else