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Old 08-08-2016, 07:49 PM   #57
hazy

 
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well...I gotta say, I'm pretty sure the problem is solved.

it was fu*king hot today, and traffic was a bit worse than usual. 25 min on the road (at least in my car..a bit more if you count the bus trip to my car) to get to the daycare to pick up kiddos. As you can see from my link it was toasty. Generally I have to park the car, and pop the hood to let things cool down. Today, I skipped popping the hood, and intentionally spent as little time getting them out of there as I could. Back to car, load 'em up, hop in, twist key, pray.

She fired right up no questions asked.

So...for now, I'm gonna mark this fixed. Will report back if anything changes. Anyone else having this issue should really look into this. It's not hard at all to do, and for a pittance in time/money, you can fix it. Going to look into the more permanent 1/0 cable from battery to starter at some point, but that's a bit more involved of a project.
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Old 08-08-2016, 10:52 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by CGbambam View Post
I had the same issue, but since I switched over to ceramic coated headers issue went away. Heat soak was definitely the culprit,
Its i good idea.

Last edited by jankoluvsky; 08-22-2016 at 03:25 PM.
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Old 08-09-2016, 03:40 AM   #59
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Originally Posted by hazy View Post
well...I gotta say, I'm pretty sure the problem is solved.

it was fu*king hot today, and traffic was a bit worse than usual. 25 min on the road (at least in my car..a bit more if you count the bus trip to my car) to get to the daycare to pick up kiddos. As you can see from my link it was toasty. Generally I have to park the car, and pop the hood to let things cool down. Today, I skipped popping the hood, and intentionally spent as little time getting them out of there as I could. Back to car, load 'em up, hop in, twist key, pray.

She fired right up no questions asked.

So...for now, I'm gonna mark this fixed. Will report back if anything changes. Anyone else having this issue should really look into this. It's not hard at all to do, and for a pittance in time/money, you can fix it. Going to look into the more permanent 1/0 cable from battery to starter at some point, but that's a bit more involved of a project.
Very nice! I guess I'm up next. My plan is to find a three-way car audio ground block to join the stud, starter and battery all together. I'll keep y'all updated.
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Old 08-09-2016, 09:51 AM   #60
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So what exactly is the point of that block in the engine bay? Does anyone have a diagram of what wires run off of that block?
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Old 08-09-2016, 10:58 AM   #61
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It is there to allow you to jump your car (or someone else's) without having to tear apart the trunk to reach the battery. That's the + connection, and if you notice on the fenderwell right there, they've put a ground point for the jumper cables.

Methinks that post is acting as a point of resistance when the starter is hot AF and pulling lots of power, though
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Old 10-02-2017, 05:06 PM   #62
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The jumper cable worked great for me ... thank you.
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Old 10-02-2017, 05:26 PM   #63
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damn I have to try that before I get one of those 9509x5 starters LOL..... second battery and starter, starter wrapped...MURR..... engine grounded fine.
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Old 10-05-2017, 08:50 AM   #64
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so, is the "right way" running a dedicated wire from the battery to the starter? Or just from some splicing point to the starter?

Also, is there any long-term downside to just doing the 6 inch jumper wire that others have done?
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Old 10-10-2017, 09:22 AM   #65
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Put a new starter on mine last friday. Hasnt done it since.
Im sooooo glad too lol.
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Old 10-10-2017, 12:25 PM   #66
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Originally Posted by vroomapunk View Post
so, is the "right way" running a dedicated wire from the battery to the starter? Or just from some splicing point to the starter?

Also, is there any long-term downside to just doing the 6 inch jumper wire that others have done?
It may reduce the life of your starter, not sure by how much.

Import guys do something called the Big Three which replaces the battery to chassis ground, engine block to chassis grounds, and battery to alternator wire with larger wires. Helps to increase voltage in all components by increasing the current flow overall. Could help with some starting problems.
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Old 12-28-2017, 10:42 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by Cruz-lo View Post
I had hot start issues.
To the point I felt uncomfortable to drive the car when I had to make more than one stop!

Every time it was warm out and the car was hot it acted like my battery was dead. Worse, after slow cranking was the dreaded stabilitrac error that made the car run terrible.

When cold the car always started just fine.

This all Started after I had the car 2 years. (Took delivery June 2009)
camed and headers for 1.5 of those years.
Even when I installed a high torque starter it did not go away.
New rebuild and 416ci it was still there.
Battery and charging system tested good.
All connecting points and ground checked numerous times.

I even put a known good optima yellow top from another vehicle in and still the same problems.

For my case at that time the problem was the connecting point where the jumper post is under the hood. Even though it was clean and tight. It must have not been passing the current through the starter needed. Those thin cable ends maybe?

I tested this by cutting the insulation off (about 1/2 inch worth) the main cable and the cable running to the starter. then making a temporary jumper with 4 gauge wire around the connecting stud.
Attached with hose clamps. Wrapped it all up in electrical tape and drove like that a few weeks just to see.

All problems gone!

Now I ended up running a second new 1/0 cable from my battery (fused) to the starter directly. Left the factory cable in place to the jumper post. It has been this way now since 2011 with no issues.

But for what it's worth I also know our stock batteries are no match when compared to the new AGM versions. AND maybe had I had a better battery in the first place my story may have been different.

This year in Jan I had to get a new batt. My delco was still testing OK per AAP though. But each cold day (well below freezing) it would lag and crank slow.
Stock batt measured in at 569 CCA 12.62V 59 degreesF
I asked the AAP guy to check the new batt.
He checked it at the same temp and same tool. Came in at 1144 CCA and 12.64V 62 degrees F.

Needless to say the car starts even better now.

Hope this helps...

I have been chasing this issue for days now! I am assuming you tested voltage at the starter before doing all this...... did it test fine, but the issue was still there? This is what is happening on my car. Tests good at the starter but still have the issue and its driving me insane! I put on a new power master and checked every ground and connection point I can find. Brand new Red Top also and it had a yellow top previously. Still will not start the car, but try to.
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Old 12-29-2017, 03:03 AM   #68
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I was chasing this issue for almost a year until I replaced the cable going from the battery to the starter to a thicker cable and added an additional ground near the engine block. Problem gone!
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Old 12-29-2017, 07:37 AM   #69
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Originally Posted by MoeIv View Post
I was chasing this issue for almost a year until I replaced the cable going from the battery to the starter to a thicker cable and added an additional ground near the engine block. Problem gone!
A new ground from the block to the frame?
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Old 12-29-2017, 08:13 AM   #70
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Originally Posted by se7en View Post
A new ground from the block to the frame?
See this post http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=504199
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