Stuck with crank pulley install - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

tazman · 07-29-2018, 01:06 PM

I have my new crank pulley on and it looks like it has about 1/4" to go yet but with the old bolt I am using an extra piece of pipe over my ratchet to get extra torque the way I was able to get it loose and it does not seem to pull the pulley in. I have the ARP bolt and I was wondering if I should be good to finish the installation with the ARP bolt and it should pull in with the proper torque?

Synner · 07-29-2018, 02:08 PM

You need something longer than a stock bolt to install it properly or you risk pulling the threads out. A very expensive mistake since you'll need a new crank if stripped. They sells tools for this...

theflea42 · 07-29-2018, 02:16 PM

You need one of these tools,
https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...aller/787830_0

Yeah, it might be 60 bucks, but its worth every penny in not destroying anything. I bought one and I've used it 3 times on the 5.3 liter that I built for my s10.

tazman · 07-29-2018, 02:16 PM

I have that it is on just has 1/4 until it is flush with the front of the crank as seen in the picture above.

Thanks

tazman · 07-29-2018, 02:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theflea42

You need one of these tools,
https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...aller/787830_0

Yeah, it might be 60 bucks, but its worth every penny in not destroying anything. I bought one and I've used it 3 times on the 5.3 liter that I built for my s10.

I don't have that specific unit but it is on there I am just concerned how much torque I am putting on the crank and it doesn't seem to move anymore .

theflea42 · 07-29-2018, 02:43 PM

Actually, I have the napa 38700 tool, https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/SER38700 (nothing wrong with the autozone tool, napa was closer when I picked it up)

The crank snout should sit in no more than 0.175 inches from the edge of the balancer. I found that measurement in the book I have about gen 3 and 4 ls-based engines.

I think you should be able to install the ARP bolt now, following their instructions for lube and torque specs.

tazman · 07-29-2018, 02:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theflea42

Actually, I have the napa 38700 tool, https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/SER38700 (nothing wrong with the autozone tool, napa was closer when I picked it up)

The crank snout should sit in no more than 0.175 inches from the edge of the balancer. I found that measurement in the book I have about gen 3 and 4 ls-based engines.

I think you should be able to install the ARP bolt now, following their instructions for lube and torque specs.

Ok thanks it's close I wish I could get Ted fjanetty to get back to me but with it being Sunday.

Russell James · 07-29-2018, 04:07 PM

Don't use the new bolt until you get the depth right. Crank snout depth needs to be .094" to .176". Use a small machinist rule to check. If your saying 1/4", that's not really an exact measurement.

I'd first call the balancer supplier on Mon and ask if it uses the same depth spec as OE?

Then make sure you are using a flywheel locking tool, and balancer installation tool (not just the bolt). I'd also ask the balancer supplier if you should be using a diamond friction washer behind the balancer. GM par # 12674588

If putting it on with just a bolt, recipe for disaster. Invest in both a flywheel holder and balancer installer. Along with that friction washer behind the balancer.

tazman · 07-29-2018, 10:51 PM

I went and borrowed the installer from Autozone. It's all back together and everything seems fine.

07-29-2018, 01:06 PM	#1
tazman Drives: 2014 ZL1 Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Tucson AZ Posts: 217	Stuck with crank pulley install I have my new crank pulley on and it looks like it has about 1/4" to go yet but with the old bolt I am using an extra piece of pipe over my ratchet to get extra torque the way I was able to get it loose and it does not seem to pull the pulley in. I have the ARP bolt and I was wondering if I should be good to finish the installation with the ARP bolt and it should pull in with the proper torque? Attached Images __________________ 2014 ZL1 Roto-Fab intake, 2" TSP headers, JRE 125 package and tune. 2015 2LT RS overkill tune, 80MM throttle body with JacFab spacer, ported intake manifold and Roto-Fab cold air intake. Vitesse throttle controller.

07-29-2018, 02:16 PM	#4
tazman Drives: 2014 ZL1 Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Tucson AZ Posts: 217	I have that it is on just has 1/4 until it is flush with the front of the crank as seen in the picture above. Thanks __________________ 2014 ZL1 Roto-Fab intake, 2" TSP headers, JRE 125 package and tune. 2015 2LT RS overkill tune, 80MM throttle body with JacFab spacer, ported intake manifold and Roto-Fab cold air intake. Vitesse throttle controller.

07-29-2018, 10:51 PM	#9
tazman Drives: 2014 ZL1 Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Tucson AZ Posts: 217	I went and borrowed the installer from Autozone. It's all back together and everything seems fine. __________________ 2014 ZL1 Roto-Fab intake, 2" TSP headers, JRE 125 package and tune. 2015 2LT RS overkill tune, 80MM throttle body with JacFab spacer, ported intake manifold and Roto-Fab cold air intake. Vitesse throttle controller.

07-29-2018, 02:08 PM	#2
Synner Drives: cars Join Date: May 2011 Location: Oversneeze Posts: 4,544	You need something longer than a stock bolt to install it properly or you risk pulling the threads out. A very expensive mistake since you'll need a new crank if stripped. They sells tools for this...

07-29-2018, 02:16 PM	#3
theflea42 #938 of 1524 Drives: 2013 Hot Wheels Edition Camaro Join Date: Mar 2017 Location: West Virginia Posts: 182	You need one of these tools, https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...aller/787830_0 Yeah, it might be 60 bucks, but its worth every penny in not destroying anything. I bought one and I've used it 3 times on the 5.3 liter that I built for my s10.

07-29-2018, 02:43 PM	#6
theflea42 #938 of 1524 Drives: 2013 Hot Wheels Edition Camaro Join Date: Mar 2017 Location: West Virginia Posts: 182	Actually, I have the napa 38700 tool, https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/SER38700 (nothing wrong with the autozone tool, napa was closer when I picked it up) The crank snout should sit in no more than 0.175 inches from the edge of the balancer. I found that measurement in the book I have about gen 3 and 4 ls-based engines. I think you should be able to install the ARP bolt now, following their instructions for lube and torque specs.

07-29-2018, 04:07 PM	#8
Russell James Drives: '15 SS 1LE, '69 Z28 drag car Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Mich Posts: 4,482	Don't use the new bolt until you get the depth right. Crank snout depth needs to be .094" to .176". Use a small machinist rule to check. If your saying 1/4", that's not really an exact measurement. I'd first call the balancer supplier on Mon and ask if it uses the same depth spec as OE? Then make sure you are using a flywheel locking tool, and balancer installation tool (not just the bolt). I'd also ask the balancer supplier if you should be using a diamond friction washer behind the balancer. GM par # 12674588 If putting it on with just a bolt, recipe for disaster. Invest in both a flywheel holder and balancer installer. Along with that friction washer behind the balancer.