VVT cam delete

[finatic]

Any recommendations out there for a full stage 2 cam kit that includes VVT elimination on my 2010 L99?

[Moto-Mojo]

Google the question vs this search feature. There is tons of info. Spoiler alert, keep the VVT.

[Royal Tiger]

Eh, I don’t miss the VVT. I’d say it depends on application. One thing you HAVE to do is dump that garbage AFM.

[Moto-Mojo]

Originally Posted by Royal Tiger

Eh, I don’t miss the VVT. I’d say it depends on application. One thing you HAVE to do is dump that garbage AFM.

I’d love to do a cam and get rid of the AFM lifters. (AFM is tuned out) I’m not capable of the job and don’t know anyone who is in my area. I just worry it would become the beginning of issues. But I guess that’s part of the game you pay to play.

Oh, and I live in The Republik.

[Nate2SS]

Originally Posted by Moto-Mojo

I’d love to do a cam and get rid of the AFM lifters. (AFM is tuned out) I’m not capable of the job and don’t know anyone who is in my area. I just worry it would become the beginning of issues. But I guess that’s part of the game you pay to play.

Oh, and I live in The Republik.

Usually, it's the other way around from what I heard. A lot of guys specifically will get it tuned out to hold off on getting a cam done. But will jump at the opportunity to get rid of the AFM lifters.

[trodecke]

Phasetek has about the most complete kit you can get. Here's the link to the base kit;

https://www.phastekperformance.com/2...o-l99tols3.htm

When you talk to them they'll ask you about what cam shaft you want to get (I went with a very mild stage 1 cam shaft). Once they have that, they'll spec out the springs and push rods for you. This is the kit I went with when we collapsed a lifter (thanks to AFM) and scored the cam shaft. Here's a couple of things to keep in mind.

1) Make sure you have all the tools you need before hand. I thought I had what I needed but my 20 year old harmonic balancer puller didn't work on the balancer in the Camaro and the spring compressor I rented from Autozone was totally useless for the LS springs. I wound up buying a relatively inexpensive LS spring compressor from Amazon. Also, don't forget that you need to put the balancer back on and most install kits you can rent from places like Autozone won't actually work because the internal bolt (for lack of a better term) isn't long enough. I wound up using a combination of old bolt with spacers (a big socket) with a standard installer kit.

2) Since this kit deletes the VVT, you get a new wiring harness for the timing cover that just connects your cam shaft sensor. The one in the kit has the incorrect connector for the lower end, the part that connects to the main wiring harness for you car. You can get an adaptor off of Amazon (search the forums for the link) or you can just re-use your existing harness by moving the wire to the bracket supplied in the kit. The old bracket won't fit with the LS3 style timing chain cover.

3) The only thing that this kit doesn't include is a set of lifter cover gaskets. Since my engine was 8 years old with 110K miles on it, my gaskets got trashed when pulling the covers. I spent the extra $20 to get the kit with the gaskets for the bolts. They're easy enough to change out and the $20 is a great insurance policy to help ensure against future leaks.

Lastly, you will need a tune after installing this kit as both the AFM and the VVT are gone. Some folks will say it's OK to drive your car to the tuner. If the tuner is really close to your house (or wherever you're working on your car), say less than a mile, then go ahead and drive it. After installing the Cam shaft we ran the engine for 20 minutes to try and get things seated somewhat and get some lubrication on the cam shaft (yes, we used assembly lube). About a week later we had the car towed to the tuner and ran it for 3 minutes to pull it into the bay where he tuned it. Those roughly 25 minutes fouled the spark plugs enough that we had to replace them before the tuner felt comfortable working on the car.

In the end, we really like what this kit and the BTR stage 1 cam shaft did for the car. We weren't really going for performance, more to get rid of the knock from the lifter collapsing. There's still a bit of a lope to the car and she's definitely rip roaring and ready to go at the traffic lights now.

[Rock-It Man]

What's wrong with VVT? It's not AFM.

Modern engines, including the V8s used on Gen6 Camaros standard and automatic, all have VVT. What's more, engines with two cams per bank have independent intake and exhaust VVT. This way you can make even more power.

[Aqua Blue RS/SS]

Originally Posted by Rock-It Man

What's wrong with VVT? It's not AFM.

Modern engines, including the V8s used on Gen6 Camaros standard and automatic, all have VVT. What's more, engines with two cams per bank have independent intake and exhaust VVT. This way you can make even more power.

Yea ask the ford guys how much they like independent cams. I’m fine with vvt but the single cam belongs inside the block as far as I’m concerned. LS Vvt has its advantages but where Royal tiger is boosted it’s not as effective as it is in an NA setup.

[TheFlyingBananaSS]

VVT also comes on the LT4 Z06. It's the AFM that sux.

[b3freak]

I'm one of the many victims of Active Fuel Management. Just outside of a CPO warranty. The repair costs were $5,000 replace the special lifters. Petitioned GM and they agreed to pay half. Still $2500 for a repair that should never happen... all for what? 3 miles/ gallon gain over a non-AFM engine? They should give owners the ability to turn it off.

[NOT A 45]

Originally Posted by trodecke

Phasetek has about the most complete kit you can get. Here's the link to the base kit;

https://www.phastekperformance.com/2...o-l99tols3.htm

When you talk to them they'll ask you about what cam shaft you want to get (I went with a very mild stage 1 cam shaft). Once they have that, they'll spec out the springs and push rods for you. This is the kit I went with when we collapsed a lifter (thanks to AFM) and scored the cam shaft. Here's a couple of things to keep in mind.

1) Make sure you have all the tools you need before hand. I thought I had what I needed but my 20 year old harmonic balancer puller didn't work on the balancer in the Camaro and the spring compressor I rented from Autozone was totally useless for the LS springs. I wound up buying a relatively inexpensive LS spring compressor from Amazon. Also, don't forget that you need to put the balancer back on and most install kits you can rent from places like Autozone won't actually work because the internal bolt (for lack of a better term) isn't long enough. I wound up using a combination of old bolt with spacers (a big socket) with a standard installer kit.

2) Since this kit deletes the VVT, you get a new wiring harness for the timing cover that just connects your cam shaft sensor. The one in the kit has the incorrect connector for the lower end, the part that connects to the main wiring harness for you car. You can get an adaptor off of Amazon (search the forums for the link) or you can just re-use your existing harness by moving the wire to the bracket supplied in the kit. The old bracket won't fit with the LS3 style timing chain cover.

3) The only thing that this kit doesn't include is a set of lifter cover gaskets. Since my engine was 8 years old with 110K miles on it, my gaskets got trashed when pulling the covers. I spent the extra $20 to get the kit with the gaskets for the bolts. They're easy enough to change out and the $20 is a great insurance policy to help ensure against future leaks.

Lastly, you will need a tune after installing this kit as both the AFM and the VVT are gone. Some folks will say it's OK to drive your car to the tuner. If the tuner is really close to your house (or wherever you're working on your car), say less than a mile, then go ahead and drive it. After installing the Cam shaft we ran the engine for 20 minutes to try and get things seated somewhat and get some lubrication on the cam shaft (yes, we used assembly lube). About a week later we had the car towed to the tuner and ran it for 3 minutes to pull it into the bay where he tuned it. Those roughly 25 minutes fouled the spark plugs enough that we had to replace them before the tuner felt comfortable working on the car.

In the end, we really like what this kit and the BTR stage 1 cam shaft did for the car. We weren't really going for performance, more to get rid of the knock from the lifter collapsing. There's still a bit of a lope to the car and she's definitely rip roaring and ready to go at the traffic lights now.

Quick tip from a dealership tech....If your trying to install your balancer on a LS3 or L99 and don't have access to the special tool. Simply buy a bolt for a ZL1 which is just enough longer and it will pull your balancer onto the crankshaft enough that you can finish it with the correct bolt.

[Aqua Blue RS/SS]

Hell yea that’s a great piece of info!

[silversleeper]

Originally Posted by TheFlyingBananaSS

VVT also comes on the LT4 Z06. It's the AFM that sux.

huh, I didn't know that.
Many info pages don't mention it, only a few do. They say it's also AFM which isn't good for failure reasons.
https://media.chevrolet.com/media/us...owerhouse.html


I wanted to add VVT to my LSA but it is too involved , I think I'd have to switch to a VVT block and more things.
As said above it's best for a N/A car that can use that extra low end and midrange, but a moded LSA already overpowers street tires so added midrange isn't so important to the forced induction poeple.

[morepowerjoe]

Here's my dyno results from the GPI SS1 VVT cam. As you can see it makes over 300 ft lbs of torque from basically off idle.