How would you add power to your L99?

[Fireslayer]

Originally Posted by Padre

That's the nice thing about the TSP cam. They send you the VVT phaser tables. The rest is gravy. My shop will be doing their first VVT cam.

Padre

What about Mast? Do they offer the same phaser tables as well? I've been reading alot on VVT cams but getting them correctly tuned on a dyno may be challanging if the tuner still has to feel his way around the VVT dynamics. I don't know if anyone has a "canned" tune for a handheld with VVT's???

Sorry to the OP for jumping topics a bit.

[Fireslayer]

Ok, just read Jason's post on the VVT tuning tables.

[Termin8r27]

Originally Posted by Jason 98 TA

Absolutely not true at all. The VVT is not limiting the redline to 6200. I have run VVT past 7800rpm without any issues.

Swapping in a LS3 conversion is what you do when your not comfortable with VVT technology. That's exactly the reason we offer VVT tune tables with our camshaft. That way you make 100% your VVT setup is phased correctly.

Checkout the fastest N/A list. I think you'll find our L99 stock motor car outrunning just about every na car including the strokers.

What you have to ask your self is do I want the best possible power at every rpm point or just at the hp peak? If you don't care about bottom and mid range power maximization then buy a standard camshaft. If you'd like better power output throughout the rpm range then VVT will allow you to do that.

I love you guys!

Learn something new everyday, I'd like to keep my VVT if I can and have been planning on an LS3 conversion based on all that I have read.

Looks like a Texas Speed VVT cam is in my car's future.

Jason, I see on the website there aren't the 'usual' cam specs like a standard cam. For instance only mention of the intake duration and lift, what about lobe separation and exhaust duration?

I'd want my VVT cam to be compatible with a whipple in the future.

Sorry to slightly thread-jack, but hopefully this will help with the discussion.

[Judge]

Termin8r theres no problem with thread-jacking maybe we'll learn something new

I also found out that theres another type of cam called AFM camshaft which is offered by texas speed and it lets you keep your engines Active Fuel Management.

If anyone has any info on those, posting it here would really help.

By the way: If you add a supercharger to the L99, do you have to remove the AFM/VVT?

[Sack Rat 2SS]

[QUOTE=Jason 98 The VVT is not limiting the redline to 6200. I have run VVT past 7800rpm without any issues.

Jason, just curious about the 7800 redline without issues? Was that with the AFM lifters that come paired with factory VVT? Or was that with 16 LS3 lifters? Or, another type of lifter? This OP was about how one would add power to an L99 and I simply said what I would do. This is not a slam on VVT technology or VVT cams, just what "I would do".

[Rockit_z28]

Originally Posted by Jason 98 TA

Absolutely not true at all. The VVT is not limiting the redline to 6200. I have run VVT past 7800rpm without any issues.

Swapping in a LS3 conversion is what you do when your not comfortable with VVT technology. That's exactly the reason we offer VVT tune tables with our camshaft. That way you make 100% your VVT setup is phased correctly.

Checkout the fastest N/A list. I think you'll find our L99 stock motor car outrunning just about every na car including the strokers.

What you have to ask your self is do I want the best possible power at every rpm point or just at the hp peak? If you don't care about bottom and mid range power maximization then buy a standard camshaft. If you'd like better power output throughout the rpm range then VVT will allow you to do that.

Jason not to disagree with you because I think the work that you and MAST are doing with VVT is important to the long term success of these motors. However, similar powerbands can be obtained without VVT with the proper selection of cam and tuning. The huge LS3 cams are great for dyno numbers, but a properly selected cam can provide power and torque throughout the normal running range. Will you get the "big" dyno number? No, but can you get a good track car? Yes. I agree at the bottom end of the curve the VVT will flourish, but that's what stall converters are made for to get the car into that powerband quicker.

To your other point, yes a lot people are afraid of the VVT no different the DOHC set-ups when they came out. Then you get into reliability of single bolt and three bolt cams which I am still not 100% sold on.

The decision has to be made by the owner and the shop doing the work and where they are comfortable to insure no problems occur later on. It is important to have that mutual understanding between customer and shop. Probably the reason why you carry both VVT cams and the L99 conversion because customers want different options.

I did a lot of back and forth on this subject myself. At the end of the day, my shop and I reached an agreement on what they were comfortable with doing, my goals with the cam and reliability.

Just my 2 cents and my experience...

[GRYGUSS]

Trade for an LS3..............Just sayin!!

[kaler]

Originally Posted by Padre

That's the nice thing about the TSP cam. They send you the VVT phaser tables. The rest is gravy. My shop will be doing their first VVT cam.

Padre

100% correct TSP provides the phasing tables for the VVT and spent 100's of hrs on the engine dyno to get them nailed down. The rest of the tuning is the same as any static cammed LS motor.Also at this time I believe TSP is the only shop providing the phasing tables with the cam.

[kaler]

Originally Posted by Sack Rat 2SS

If it was my L99 I would change to lower rear gears first, like 3:70's. Although you do not add HP you add performance improvement. Then, like Andy at Livernois says above, go to the motor and do LS3 conversion. Your redline will go from 6,200 to 6,800 by eliminating VVT cam and VVT lifters and cam phaser plus you have many more cams to choose from to meet your needs and expectations.

My car shifts at 6800 rpm's

[2012camaro2SS/RS]

Hey guys, been reading this forum. I definitely want to add some horses to my 12' 2ss, A6(dont hate, I would rather not shift, i just dont want to always have to do that) when it comes in what could I do to add hp?
I am not talking like 20 or some bs like that. I am trying to add about 50 or so. I know thats up there. And yeah its not all that hard to do. But the catch is, I do not and will not void the warranty on the engine. Air intake and exhaust are all i know that will not void it.
PLEASE! if anyone has suggestions, lets hear them!

Thanks!

[kaler]

I just posted this in another VVT thread.

I have the TSP VVT-3 cam, my goals are more 1/4 mile based than rwhp and the VVT cams (TSP,MAST and Nu Era) have been proving them selves at the track. Stock the car put down 319rwhp with the VVT-3 cam,ported heads,Lt's and Cai thru a Yank 3200 converter it put down 440 rwhp. That is a gain of 121rwhp,that is out standing gains in a H/C car with bolt ons in my book!!! I could not be happier with the cam. New 1/4 mile times coming soon.

If you compare that to an LS3 car they dyno 360-380ish stock add 121rwhp that is 481-501.

[Padre]

Originally Posted by 2012camaro2SS/RS

Hey guys, been reading this forum. I definitely want to add some horses to my 12' 2ss, A6(dont hate, I would rather not shift, i just dont want to always have to do that) when it comes in what could I do to add hp?
I am not talking like 20 or some bs like that. I am trying to add about 50 or so. I know thats up there. And yeah its not all that hard to do. But the catch is, I do not and will not void the warranty on the engine. Air intake and exhaust are all i know that will not void it.
PLEASE! if anyone has suggestions, lets hear them!

Thanks!

Well, powertrain stuff, other than CAI and exhaust, are out.

So look at weight. A full catback will save you 50lbs. A 21lb Braille battery can save you 25 lbs. A nice set of lightweight rims and tires can save you up to 15lbs per corner. And other weight reduction may bring you up to 150+lbs savings. Lighter and quicker is good.

Also consider an underdrive pulley (if your dealer allows it).

But basically, your hands are tied if you can't do headers, cam, heads, all that.

My dealer installed my torque converter, and my 3.45 gearbox is from GM - a stock M6 unit. Those would help you be a lot quicker, and maybe the dealer wouldn't have a problem.

Padre

[FTI-EDC]

Originally Posted by Padre

<snip> A nice set of lightweight rims and tires can save you up to 15lbs per corner. And other weight reduction may bring you up to 150+lbs savings. Lighter and quicker is good.

Padre

Right on Padre - Parasitic losses in the driveline are an ET killer at the track!

I've got to talk to Mike at N.E.P. about doing that six cylinder brake conversion so he can get those heavy-ass 20s off and get some flyweight drag wheels on his car. Maybe even some slicks for racing so he can drop a few tenths off the car.

Hopefully his wife won't notice her car was loosing some of its streetability and those money-making stealth qualities.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by Judge

Which way do you prefer to add power to your L99 engine?

Forget about forced inductions, I want to know about your mods like Camshafts, Piston Heads, and so on.

Been researching camshafts for the L99 and found out they're pretty tricky due to the Active Fuel Management and other electronics in the engine.

So It'd be interesting to know your methods of adding more horses.

If N/A is your Preference, than you have to Add Cubic Inches, Compression and get rid of the Gas mileage parts.

An Engine Swap will be More cost effective than building an L99, then you can sell the L99 to a Street Rod Guy or Off Road Guy for nice chunk of change.

Of coarse the supporting Mods, like CAI, LT headers, injectors and custom tuning
Ted.