IT LIVES! My Z/LE ZL1 + 1LE + 2SS = Z/LE ;o) LSA SC [COTW 2/09/15]

[ABADZL1]

Wood alcohol @ lowes or home depot is an option. Probably cost more tho. Comes in a gallon can. Might be better just getting it from a speed shop tho. Some drag strips or tracks sell M1

[hammdo]

Yep, VP has distributors here. I’ll be looking for sure - probably call VP to see who locally has it...

-Don

[hammdo]

OK, removed the back seat and panels to gain access for routing the wiring:











It was just easier to unbolt the upper section of the rear seat than line up and remove.

I have the rest of the harness wired up ready to go. Found a location for the controller, and have some rivnuts ordered for the smaller size. Gonna look nice!

I plan on routing the hose on the inside but before I do that, I want to do a test of the electronics and make sure they work as expected. Once I've confirmed that, then I'll route the fuel line and tap the lid...

-Don

[hammdo]

Got the controller ready to go. I'm putting it behind the drivers panel to keep it 'handy' but out of the way:



Then, ran the wiring along the drivers' side:







Next, I'll be routing up to the trunk and then, run the wires in the front to the switched power, MAP boost 0-5v signal, and the led light...

-Don

[hammdo]

Continued to route the wiring to the trunk. This is the 12v fulltime power:



Pump and fuel level wiring:

I cut a rubber grommet and will be using that to route the wiring and hose:



Cleaned up the wiring routing:



I'll probably just go ahead and run the hose next just so I can cleanup the trunk area and have it ready for testing.

That will be next...

-Don

[hammdo]

Routed the hose, plugged in the wiring, fitted the tank in place:









Next will be the hose routing to the engine bay, then wiring for led, switched power, 0-5v signal...

-Don

[hammdo]

Continuing on with the hose routing, I found the other body plug right above the main positive cable and set it up to allow the hose to fit:









Pulled the hose so I have a little extra for routing.

Then, ran the hose inside and protected it:

















The excess hose is rolled up next to the tank behind the cover. Next, I'll run the LED and then the switched/0-5v wires!

-Don

[hammdo]

Test time!

I ran the last couple of wires (Blue for the MAP 0-5v, yellow for switched power) and did a test!

Wired up:







Operate the test with the hose un-hooked from the nozzles -- the way I tested is the recommend procedure.

Next, I'll need to confirm with AEM a couple of things (level is low but not flashing and the LED is on low even though pump is not running but, the green LED is lit).

Once I have the wiring good, I'll do a boost test to verify the pump runs as expected THEN I'll do the lid...

-Don

[hammdo]

Because I'm using the AEM Controller with the V1 Low Level Sensor, it requires the sensor be flipped 180°:



This is due to the AEM controller normally using a 'V2' resistance sensor -- SO remember that if you're using the V1 low level sensor (both wires are black) with AEM.

Also, when the controller starts up, it will flash green once and then 'dimly' light the LED -- this is normal and does not mean the pump is running -- just the unit is operating. 1 flash meaning in controller is in mode setting 1 (MAP 0-5V)

I called AEM, spoke with Matt in tech support -- he confirmed the above for me...

So, I just need to install the remote LED, THEN the nozzles!

-Don

[hammdo]

After re-orienting the low level sender, did a test!



working as it should...

Notice I used a BIG LED -- no missing that thing...

Wiring is pretty much done. Next is the MAP test to ensure it comes on under boost, then, the LID!

-Don

[hammdo]

Taking with Aaron at GPI, he suggested I use the MAF Hz 2k to 14k range as it works better with a PD supercharger. He suggested setting the start range around 6k Hz with full on at 8k Hz...

I have an Hz multi-meter coming just so I can validate the yellow wire in the breakout is really the MAF signal...

-Don

[hammdo]

OK, I extended the wire so I can tap into the MAF Hz wire:



Now, normally the 'yellow' wire on the MAF is the Hz signal:



I have an Hz test meter coming in today to confirm that but, that is the wire I intend to tap into.

So, I had to reset the controller to use the 2k Hz to 14k Hz settings:



Manual here:

http://www.aemelectronics.com/files/...ller%20Kit.pdf

Based on math, the 'Start' % is 39% (6k) and the 'Full On' % is 50% (7k).

I came to those settings after reviewing my WOT runs:



Note the 2 red boxes. One for Hz and One for Boost

I needed to be full on meth @ 6 PSI Boost so I set the 'Hertz' scale to 7k.

Since the ranges are:

6K Hz start, 7K Hz full on, I need to know the 'percentage' of scale for the dials.

Start:

6000/14000 (14k Hz max signal) is ~42% so, I started the meth about 39% to give it room to start (~5.5k Hz).

Full On:

7000/14000 is obviously 50% so that is where I have the meth set to full on.

Once I confirm the Yellow wire is the Hz signal, I'll do a test to verify spray works and is 'off' when I'm below the start range...

At least that is the 'theory' behind my settings now ;o)

-Don

[hammdo]

Alright! Tapped into the Hz now that I've verified the Yellow Wire is Hz output:



Here is how I validated I had the right wire:



Prep and Test!





LED and status on the controller now flash 5 times (mode 5)...

Now, onto the LID!

-Don

[LHRxDeadx]

Originally Posted by hammdo

Got the diff out -- I was able to unbolt the axles and drive shaft easily (DSS made this a no brainer). Had to remove the exhaust and the hotchkis brace to drop the diff:







8MM allen socket did the trick:



Driveshaft:



Dropping the diff is still a pain though -- have to lift the right axle up and tilt the right side of the diff down first:







Drained the diff -- no issues found! no metal to speak of -- very glad of that!:





With the diff out, you can see the bushings are cracked and have a lot of give:

















And culprit number 2:

The axle hubs pop out with just my hands -- both drivers and passengers (3 tugs and out they came):





I don't think the clips are 'strong' enough to prevent a pop out, but I'm sure I'll hear 'fix the bushings and they won't pop'. Yes, that is true, but should these come out of the diff by hand? I'm thinking not.

I'll call DSS on Monday and give them my findings, but, it looks as if these pop easy if the diff moves or the angle is just enough on the axles to add 'pulling' pressure.

The offset bushings will help a ton with this as they won't allow the diff to move AND will help the angle of the axles.

So, there you have it, 600 RWHP, SOLID cradle/bushings, aftermarket toe/trailing arms/swaybars, 1000hp axles, CF driveshaft, looks like contributed to killing the stock diff bushings, but, NCM proved to be the final nail as it is HARD on the left side of the suspension -- thus the popped driver's axle...

-Don

where you getting a vibration?