DIY: change Brake Pads/ rotors - Page 3 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

aldaron327 · 11-07-2011, 09:06 AM

Regarding the TTY bolts, is it recommended that you'd use some sort of compound for torqueing down the bolts (I think ARP has some stuff) that is supposed to help in the process or can you just torque down the new bolts with some Loctite and call it good? Just curious as I have all the parts enroute to replace pads, rotors, and brake lines.

Thanks for any input and Thanks OP for the awesome write up with good pics!

-Tim

full of days · 11-25-2011, 10:07 AM

i'm swapping my front calipers/rotors to the cts-v 6 piston setup. What is the part number for the new spindle caliper bolts? anyone have that?

aldaron327 · 11-25-2011, 11:24 PM

New DBA 5000 Series 2-Piece front rotors and 4000 Series rear rotors with Hawk HPS pads and Russell braided steel brake lines installed as of today. All Brake Equipment was purchased from MarylandSpeed.

Initial thoughts:

I took my car out onto the interstate and on to an off-ramp to bed the pads in. Jammed on the brakes from 75 mph (speed limit on I-70 where I live) down to the stop sign. Immediate right turn to a road where the speed limit at the off-ramp's stop sign is 40MPH but goes up to 55 MPH 1/4 mile up the road. I conducted a few hard stops from 40 and 55 and then made the right turn onto another road where the speed limit is 55 and conducted a couple more hard "brake events". I drove back through town and conducted the same loop without hitting the brakes "hard" twice more for a total of 15 minutes without hard stopping. On initial "bedding" and subsequent stopping, the brakes now feel almost "spongy" where they used to have an initial "bite". However, pushing harder on the brake pedal initiates a more "sharp" stopping event. The brakes used to have that initial "bite" and then stop hard with a slight "fading" feeling. Now, it's the exact opposite. It takes more pedal pressure to feel that "bite" but it's more progressive and the stops are definitely shorter from a "seat of the pants" perspective. I hit the brakes where I used to to turn onto the main road that my driveway sits off of, for example, and I actually almost stopped short of the road. I've experienced ZERO noise from the new set up and my only complaint at all is that when I ordered the rotors, they were supposed to be "black hat" rotors, but what I received was painted gold. Personally, I don't care as long as the parts that I spent money on work better than stock. Out where I live, it takes deliberate braking events to "test" a brake system short of racing a car on a track. I'll be adding the separate reservoir for the clutch tomorrow and I'll check to make sure that everything still looks and "acts" normal.

Again, thanks to Maryland Speed, Ofer(2SSRS), and 2010CAMAROJ for getting me the parts that I need to complete my brake and clutch systems. I'm hoping that in the spring I'll get my chance to test the brakes to their "full potential" to see just how much better what I purchased is than stock.

-Tim

MarylandSpeed · 11-30-2011, 12:10 AM

Thanks for the order! This is a great write up!

hysonmb · 01-28-2012, 06:35 AM

Thank you for this! I just installed new pads last night. This was, by far, the easiest brake job I've ever done and your post made it a breeze.

DSPark13 · 02-14-2012, 06:41 PM

Thanks for the write-up. I will be replacing brake pads this week.

rgmatlo · 02-20-2012, 11:40 AM

Ok have stock pads on and ordered some ceramics through the local auto parts store. The pads they gave me were not the same size and shape of the stock. Is there a difference in aftermarket size and shape compared to the OEM? If so shouldnt they still use the spring and pins that the stock use?

unclepat · 02-28-2012, 06:19 PM

Just installed a set of crosss drilled and slotted rotors along with the pads on my 2011 Camaro. Scared as hell but I got thru it with flying colors thanks to this article. I also installed MGP caliper covers while everything was apart. Thanks a bunch for a GREAT DIY article. Helluva lot of brake dust during the "bedding" process though!

Infern0 · 03-06-2012, 08:39 PM

Holy crap. I've never even watched someone else install brake pads before but I read through this and it gave me the courage to save the $500 the dealer was going to charge me.

Literally took me 15 minutes per wheel. Thanks for the write up.

blk96gt · 03-10-2012, 11:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Big Brunsy

Attachment 218106

Are these two bolts the torque to yield bolts?

EDWEIRD · 03-23-2012, 09:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dave Den

Great write up, I am going to paint my rotors and not the caliper.
I want to rmove the rotor can I just unbolt the 2 18mm bolts and how do I release the caliper piston ?
Dave

AM I the only one who's never heard of anyone painting the rotors before??

ducatisl · 03-24-2012, 06:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EDWEIRD

AM I the only one who's never heard of anyone painting the rotors before??

That's what I was thinking, LOL! Maybe he's going to paint the center???

The Stig · 03-24-2012, 08:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ducatisl

That's what I was thinking, LOL! Maybe he's going to paint the center???

This. He's probably going to paint the rotor hats.

ducatisl · 03-24-2012, 09:44 AM

You never know in this crowd

Quote:

Originally Posted by stieger

This. He's probably going to paint the rotor hats.

11-07-2011, 09:06 AM	#29
aldaron327 Onward and Upward. Drives: '13 Equinox LTZ AWD,'09 Silverado Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Abilene, KS Posts: 398	Regarding the TTY bolts, is it recommended that you'd use some sort of compound for torqueing down the bolts (I think ARP has some stuff) that is supposed to help in the process or can you just torque down the new bolts with some Loctite and call it good? Just curious as I have all the parts enroute to replace pads, rotors, and brake lines. Thanks for any input and Thanks OP for the awesome write up with good pics! -Tim __________________ 2010 Summit White 2SS/RS LS3 MODS: CAI by CAI, Flowmaster American Thunder Cat-Back, DBA 5000 Slotted/Cross-drilled rotors (Front), Hawk HPS Pads, Russell Braided Brake Lines, DBA 4000 Slotted/Cross-drilled rotors (Rear), Barton Short-Throw Shifter, UM Comp Extractor Hood & Gen I Spoiler, custom paint

11-25-2011, 10:07 AM	#30
full of days Drives: Camaro GT Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Charlotte Posts: 723	i'm swapping my front calipers/rotors to the cts-v 6 piston setup. What is the part number for the new spindle caliper bolts? anyone have that? __________________ *Post Tenebras Lux*

11-25-2011, 11:24 PM	#31
aldaron327 Onward and Upward. Drives: '13 Equinox LTZ AWD,'09 Silverado Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Abilene, KS Posts: 398	New DBA 5000 Series 2-Piece front rotors and 4000 Series rear rotors with Hawk HPS pads and Russell braided steel brake lines installed as of today. All Brake Equipment was purchased from MarylandSpeed. Initial thoughts: I took my car out onto the interstate and on to an off-ramp to bed the pads in. Jammed on the brakes from 75 mph (speed limit on I-70 where I live) down to the stop sign. Immediate right turn to a road where the speed limit at the off-ramp's stop sign is 40MPH but goes up to 55 MPH 1/4 mile up the road. I conducted a few hard stops from 40 and 55 and then made the right turn onto another road where the speed limit is 55 and conducted a couple more hard "brake events". I drove back through town and conducted the same loop without hitting the brakes "hard" twice more for a total of 15 minutes without hard stopping. On initial "bedding" and subsequent stopping, the brakes now feel almost "spongy" where they used to have an initial "bite". However, pushing harder on the brake pedal initiates a more "sharp" stopping event. The brakes used to have that initial "bite" and then stop hard with a slight "fading" feeling. Now, it's the exact opposite. It takes more pedal pressure to feel that "bite" but it's more progressive and the stops are definitely shorter from a "seat of the pants" perspective. I hit the brakes where I used to to turn onto the main road that my driveway sits off of, for example, and I actually almost stopped short of the road. I've experienced ZERO noise from the new set up and my only complaint at all is that when I ordered the rotors, they were supposed to be "black hat" rotors, but what I received was painted gold. Personally, I don't care as long as the parts that I spent money on work better than stock. Out where I live, it takes deliberate braking events to "test" a brake system short of racing a car on a track. I'll be adding the separate reservoir for the clutch tomorrow and I'll check to make sure that everything still looks and "acts" normal. Again, thanks to Maryland Speed, Ofer(2SSRS), and 2010CAMAROJ for getting me the parts that I need to complete my brake and clutch systems. I'm hoping that in the spring I'll get my chance to test the brakes to their "full potential" to see just how much better what I purchased is than stock. -Tim __________________ 2010 Summit White 2SS/RS LS3 MODS: CAI by CAI, Flowmaster American Thunder Cat-Back, DBA 5000 Slotted/Cross-drilled rotors (Front), Hawk HPS Pads, Russell Braided Brake Lines, DBA 4000 Slotted/Cross-drilled rotors (Rear), Barton Short-Throw Shifter, UM Comp Extractor Hood & Gen I Spoiler, custom paint

03-06-2012, 08:39 PM	#37
Infern0 Bring It Drives: In Between Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: San Antonio, TX Posts: 2,929 View My Garage	Holy crap. I've never even watched someone else install brake pads before but I read through this and it gave me the courage to save the $500 the dealer was going to charge me. Literally took me 15 minutes per wheel. Thanks for the write up. __________________ 2017 Camaro ZL1 M6 - Everything but the sunroof - Sold 2010 Camaro SS - 650RWHP Daily Driver - Traded

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11-30-2011, 12:10 AM	#32
MarylandSpeed Account Suspended Drives: 2012 ZL1 & 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Maryland Posts: 3,378	Thanks for the order! This is a great write up!

01-28-2012, 06:35 AM	#33
hysonmb Drives: 2010 2SS / RS Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Waldorf, MD Posts: 227 View My Garage	Thank you for this! I just installed new pads last night. This was, by far, the easiest brake job I've ever done and your post made it a breeze.

02-14-2012, 06:41 PM	#34
DSPark13 Drives: 2006 Silverado 2500HD D/A Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Texas Posts: 18	Thanks for the write-up. I will be replacing brake pads this week.

02-20-2012, 11:40 AM	#35
rgmatlo Drives: Imperial Blue 2SS Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Virginia Posts: 2	Ok have stock pads on and ordered some ceramics through the local auto parts store. The pads they gave me were not the same size and shape of the stock. Is there a difference in aftermarket size and shape compared to the OEM? If so shouldnt they still use the spring and pins that the stock use?

02-28-2012, 06:19 PM	#36
unclepat Owner of Red Heat Drives: 2011 Chevrolet Camaro V6 Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Miami, Fl. Posts: 32 View My Garage	Just installed a set of crosss drilled and slotted rotors along with the pads on my 2011 Camaro. Scared as hell but I got thru it with flying colors thanks to this article. I also installed MGP caliper covers while everything was apart. Thanks a bunch for a GREAT DIY article. Helluva lot of brake dust during the "bedding" process though!