Help, too much crankcase pressure!

[ayousef]

Originally Posted by RBL

At how many lbs of boost does this start to become a concern?

This is more of a concern on centrifugal or turbo cars since you need to mount a few checkvalves in the system to prevent boosting the crankcase. On PD blowers all the access ports are pre rotors where there is no boost so its fairly simple to vent the crankcase off any blowby with a PD blower car.

[quincy speeder]

Originally Posted by Russell James

I would copy what the COPO with a 4.0L Whipple uses. Benefit from factory research, that works.

It looks like they just run a big hose from each valve cover to a vented puke tank. Typical drag racing set up. No sealed pcv, no check valves... that stuff will blow your seals out in a high boost motor.

Thats whay I do.
When you run a pcv and an open breather you take it from a closed loop system to an open loop system which pretty much makes a controlled vacuum leak. Or more of a leak compared to a factory system.

[Bad Dad]

Originally Posted by MANNYS2SS/RS

Bull I also had the same problem, with that breather the check valve allows air in but not out. I pulled the PCV valve out of the breather. I have been running an open breather with no issues or oil leaks. Good luck

Manny you saw that big breather on my setup works great.

[east TX Muscle cars]

Originally Posted by Russell James

I would copy what the COPO with a 4.0L Whipple uses. Benefit from factory research, that works.

It looks like they just run a big hose from each valve cover to a vented puke tank. Typical drag racing set up. No sealed pcv, no check valves... that stuff will blow your seals out in a high boost motor.

This is kind of how we do our HIGH PSI/HP builds.

these motors need to BREATH! if they don't you will blow oil out your rear main every time! Even on Stock cars with just a blower we build our own breather system for it along with the one that may come with the Blower kit. Breathing the motor is one of the most important things and needs to be done right.

[Russell James]

Exactly. There is a lot of experimenting out there. Which is why I take a lot of pictures of the COPOs every time I see one. They've already researched what works.

This one is sitting at Lingenfelters, lots of 8 sec runs, no leaks underneath.

There is no way to put that kind of boost to a sealed system without blowing the seals out.

A lot of pro cars even go the next step... vacuum pump to evac the crankcase.

[GretchenGotGrowl]

Originally Posted by Russell James

Exactly. There is a lot of experimenting out there. Which is why I take a lot of pictures of the COPOs every time I see one. They've already researched what works.

This one is sitting at Lingenfelters, lots of 8 sec runs, no leaks underneath.

There is no way to put that kind of boost to a sealed system without blowing the seals out.

A lot of pro cars even go the next step... vacuum pump to evac the crankcase.

That what we ended up doing. Got tired of messing with it and just went old school. We even dump the fumes after the second catch can to the exhust so you don't smell a thing.

[CyberPredator]

Originally Posted by GretchenGotGrowl

That what we ended up doing. Got tired of messing with it and just went old school. We even dump the fumes after the second catch can to the exhust so you don't smell a thing.

you have a picture of this?

[GretchenGotGrowl]

Originally Posted by CyberPredator

you have a picture of this?

Yeah, let me get those posted up. Not sure if I still have the ones showing it dumping back in the exhaust (phone died), but I can get those when I get home.

[blake-b]

I have the same issues. Under boost, I can smell burnt oil (because it is getting on the exhaust) and there will be multiple small puddles under the car after it sits in the garage.

I have the monster RX can and metered breather and it is hooked up correctly. I went beyond the drill mod by removing the stock pcv fitting in the driver's valve cover and replaced it with a 1/4npt adapter to 8AN so the exit there is plenty large. I have checked and rechecked it all. I found that if I run a line from the valley port to the air filter, that helps. There is good suction at the hose from the driver's valve cover and a slight amount of suction at the air breather/oil fill hole.

I also have oil in my intake...

I am going to get a Mighty Mouse can and also run a line from the valley to the air filter. I haven't seen a single bad word said about that can yet.

Pretty sure my rear main is toast so when I change clutches, I will replace the rear cover, seal, gasket, and bolts. I found someone on ebay selling all that for $54 shipped.

[CyberPredator]

Originally Posted by GretchenGotGrowl

Yeah, let me get those posted up. Not sure if I still have the ones showing it dumping back in the exhaust (phone died), but I can get those when I get home.

cool deal thanks alot!

[GretchenGotGrowl]

Its a LFX, but same basic principle.

Here's a wide view. We tapped into the passenger-side valve cover and put a AN10 fitting and tube in. That runs to the primary catch can that we mounted behind the washer bottle.

[

On the driver-side valve cover we tapped and put a valve in. This allows us to control the flow of air into the system when not under boost. You can make some fine adjustments to this to get the exact vacuum you want.



This is the main catch can. We pick up almost all the oil and water here and just drain it when necessary.



We have a hose that goes from this catch can to the belt driven pump (white arrow). This pulls a constant vaccum and the big silver knob (red arrow) allows us to make gross adjustments to the actual vacuum we want. The rest is just passed through the second catch can (green arrow). What you can't see is that on the back of this last can we have two flanges that are connected to two braided lines that go back to the exhaust behind the turbos. All the fumes exit that way and we have a nice open system that supports different amounts of vacuum.



Very old school, but it works like a charm.

[BullF-16]

Here is my plan i guess. In the pic you can see my RX monster can. I have verified all check valves are correctly oriented. I have the dual valve can.

Center uncheckline runs to the rear of drivers side valve cover port which was drilled out to 1/4". You can also see i ran a Tee into the valley cover port on this same line.

One of the outer checked lines runs to the procharger inlet tube just prior to the PC inlet

The other checked line runs directly to the intake port behind the TB

The port on the pass side valve cover that points toward the front of the car is capped.

The breather on the oil fill port has its check valve removed and i can feel suction when placing my hand over this oil fill port....Thank God. My LS3 would puff smoke thru this hole and build pressure when capped.....hence the reason i now have an HKE LSX

Hopefully this is enough

[JLE58]

Bull you inbox is full. My can is like the copo one but much cleaner looking.

[BullF-16]

Originally Posted by JLE58

Bull you inbox is full. My can is like the copo one but much cleaner looking.

i cleaned it out about 10 min ago.