Disappointing trip to the track - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

leemozoid · 03-01-2020, 10:35 PM

Let me tell you. There is little more scary than having your computer pull about 100 hp due to high IAT2s and airflow cool things down at the top end at almost 100 mph and give it back. That kick in the seats jerks the car and if you aren't in 100% "driver" mode she will depart linear travel in a heartbeat. Good launches (thank you MT) but the heat thing is a real head scratcher. We added an AFCO twin fan triple pass exchanger, made sure the meth inj system was up and running. Down on power except for those few kicks in the ass at the big in when cooling kicked in. That's a "whoa, nelly!" moment.

97ChameleonTA · 03-02-2020, 09:15 AM

You may need to bleed the air out of the intercooler system.

silversleeper · 03-02-2020, 01:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 97ChameleonTA

You may need to bleed the air out of the intercooler system.

Yeah sounds more like that or an intermittant cooling pump

LsxDoctor · 03-02-2020, 03:39 PM

What kind of IC pump you running?
I had the same issue on my Mercedes E55 and adding a 2nd pump helped out a ton! Interchillers are awesome too just haven't wanted to invest that kind of coin on cooling.

Bigtime53 · 03-03-2020, 06:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 97ChameleonTA

You may need to bleed the air out of the intercooler system.

Yes do this! This sure sounds like your problem.

leemozoid · 03-03-2020, 08:26 PM

In discussing this with my tuner, he concedes there may be an air bubble in the system. He thought he had it fully bled after he installed the AFCO h/e but will go back and check. I have decided on one, possibly two more courses of action. The pump is the factory ZL1 and has been functioning well but I'm more than willing to replace it. I'm also going to add:

1. Reinforced brick. I need suggestions on who to go to. I'll need someone who'll accept a core. I don't want an excess of down time waiting on mine to be rebuilt.

2. Interchiller. Air flow through the grill of these cars is pitiful at best and while she's a beast on the street, all of the sitting on the track does nothing to dissipate heat between runs. Running or off, damned if you do, damned if you don't.

Looking for great intel from the experts here.

Local celeb was at the track, too. Pic for attention. He made one pass in the car (tower turned off the timer) and that sweet SWB.

leemozoid · 03-21-2020, 10:39 PM

Autopsy complete. Brick has not been pulled yet but the containment failure was in the expansion tank. Looks like we suffered a major internal pressure spike. I think the end tank in the brick collapsed and led to the weakest link letting go. Interchiller arrives Monday. I'll have the tank seam welded and pull the brick for repair. Should have those IAT2s nice and low in a couple of weeks.

leemozoid · 03-24-2020, 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leemozoid

Autopsy complete. Brick has not been pulled yet but the containment failure was in the expansion tank. Looks like we suffered a major internal pressure spike. I think the end tank in the brick collapsed and led to the weakest link letting go. Interchiller arrives Monday. I'll have the tank seam welded and pull the brick for repair. Should have those IAT2s nice and low in a couple of weeks.

Tank has been repaired. Intercooler is here, reinforced brick inbound. Sub ambient IAT2s are in my future!

leemozoid · 03-31-2020, 08:17 PM

Today the collapsed brick was replaced with a reinforced one, the repaired tank having been previously installed was filled, the new pump wiring connected and the system bled out. IAT2s are now running about 10-15 over ambient instead of 100+ or more. Now I need this COVID-19 shit to pass so the track can reopen and we can start making full power passes again.My baby's back!

Juiced1 · 04-02-2020, 09:16 AM

I missed this point originally but I can't say it enough. When your intake temps are going crazy you most likely have a air bubble or are low on fluid. Without a reservoir it's very easy for either to happen. About half the cars we work on are not filled properly. When we take the supercharger lines off no fluid comes out. Without a reservoir the fill process is difficult. Most dealers miss the mark on filling them.

RyangAsh · 04-03-2020, 12:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Juiced1

I missed this point originally but I can't say it enough. When your intake temps are going crazy you most likely have a air bubble or are low on fluid. Without a reservoir it's very easy for either to happen. About half the cars we work on are not filled properly. When we take the supercharger lines off no fluid comes out. Without a reservoir the fill process is difficult. Most dealers miss the mark on filling them.

A very simple way to fix this is to command the HX pump to run via hp tuners while filling it. I have had no issues do it this way. I am in need of a reservoir though, still figuring out if I am going to retro fit a baffled unit off my buds CTSV...

EDIT: I like to have the car at a certain angle too...4th gen trick I learned a few days back *sarcasm*

JANNETTYRACING · 04-04-2020, 07:54 AM

Don't waste time or money on a reservoir unless you can add Ice to it.

Otherwise you are just adding a heat sink in the engine compartment to help heat your water.

Nothing better than a good bleed out system with minimal water stored under the hood where it is hottest.

Let the flaming begin LOL

Juiced1 · 04-06-2020, 04:52 PM

Most don't know how to bleed the system properly. Even dealers, time and time again do not add fluid after they service the supercharger or they don't do it properly. With a reservoir it's almost a non issue. Most will allow you to add ice to some degree but I'll take the extra coolant capacity, constant head pressure on the pump and easy fill up/level check any day.

leemozoid · 04-26-2020, 07:55 PM

We are back, bad and as good as ever. Ted makes a great point however it's moot since the tank is installed and operating. It is also insulated to minimize the the additional heating from underhood temps. I have also installed a Dashlogic so I can know exactly what's going on. IAT2s are now rarely above IAT1s unless under boost and once back under normal operation they return to the same range quickly. We still haven't had her on the dyno but I can certainly tell from driving her that she has ALL the power.

What are the thoughts on interchillers? Refrigerated air to drive IAT2s below ambient?

03-01-2020, 10:35 PM	#1
leemozoid Drives: '15 Silverado LTZ & '13 ZL1 ragtop Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Edmond, Oklahoma Posts: 313 View My Garage	Disappointing trip to the track Let me tell you. There is little more scary than having your computer pull about 100 hp due to high IAT2s and airflow cool things down at the top end at almost 100 mph and give it back. That kick in the seats jerks the car and if you aren't in 100% "driver" mode she will depart linear travel in a heartbeat. Good launches (thank you MT) but the heat thing is a real head scratcher. We added an AFCO twin fan triple pass exchanger, made sure the meth inj system was up and running. Down on power except for those few kicks in the ass at the big in when cooling kicked in. That's a "whoa, nelly!" moment.

03-02-2020, 09:15 AM	#2
97ChameleonTA Drives: 2013 ZL1 Convertible Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Valrico, FL Posts: 515	You may need to bleed the air out of the intercooler system. __________________ 2013 ZL1 Auto Convertible - BRM Best: 10.829@127.15 FI Interchiller, Roto-Fab CAI, Big Gulp & Res, 9.1/2.5 Pulleys, PB&S, DeatschWerks 1500cc, Fore triple pump, Pfadt LT's, RD HX, MT DR's New times to come with E85 2016 2SS Auto - Hyper Blue Metallic Roto-Fab CAI

03-02-2020, 03:39 PM	#4
LsxDoctor 15 Year LS1Tech Member Drives: 2010 ss 391ci LS3 Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Albuquerque Posts: 252	What kind of IC pump you running? I had the same issue on my Mercedes E55 and adding a 2nd pump helped out a ton! Interchillers are awesome too just haven't wanted to invest that kind of coin on cooling. __________________ GJDM

04-04-2020, 07:54 AM	#12
JANNETTYRACING Drives: BLUE CAMARO ZL1 1LE M6 Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: ON THE DYNO WATERBURY CT. Posts: 15,226	Don't waste time or money on a reservoir unless you can add Ice to it. Otherwise you are just adding a heat sink in the engine compartment to help heat your water. Nothing better than a good bleed out system with minimal water stored under the hood where it is hottest. Let the flaming begin LOL __________________ www.jannettyracing.com Celebrating 37 years Performance parts, Installation, Fabrication, Dyno tuning, Remote custom tuning, and alignments. 203-753-7223 Waterbury CT. 06705 email tedj@jannettyracing.com

03-03-2020, 08:26 PM	#6
leemozoid Drives: '15 Silverado LTZ & '13 ZL1 ragtop Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Edmond, Oklahoma Posts: 313 View My Garage	In discussing this with my tuner, he concedes there may be an air bubble in the system. He thought he had it fully bled after he installed the AFCO h/e but will go back and check. I have decided on one, possibly two more courses of action. The pump is the factory ZL1 and has been functioning well but I'm more than willing to replace it. I'm also going to add: 1. Reinforced brick. I need suggestions on who to go to. I'll need someone who'll accept a core. I don't want an excess of down time waiting on mine to be rebuilt. 2. Interchiller. Air flow through the grill of these cars is pitiful at best and while she's a beast on the street, all of the sitting on the track does nothing to dissipate heat between runs. Running or off, damned if you do, damned if you don't. Looking for great intel from the experts here. Local celeb was at the track, too. Pic for attention. He made one pass in the car (tower turned off the timer) and that sweet SWB.

03-21-2020, 10:39 PM	#7
leemozoid Drives: '15 Silverado LTZ & '13 ZL1 ragtop Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Edmond, Oklahoma Posts: 313 View My Garage	Autopsy complete. Brick has not been pulled yet but the containment failure was in the expansion tank. Looks like we suffered a major internal pressure spike. I think the end tank in the brick collapsed and led to the weakest link letting go. Interchiller arrives Monday. I'll have the tank seam welded and pull the brick for repair. Should have those IAT2s nice and low in a couple of weeks.

03-31-2020, 08:17 PM	#9
leemozoid Drives: '15 Silverado LTZ & '13 ZL1 ragtop Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Edmond, Oklahoma Posts: 313 View My Garage	Today the collapsed brick was replaced with a reinforced one, the repaired tank having been previously installed was filled, the new pump wiring connected and the system bled out. IAT2s are now running about 10-15 over ambient instead of 100+ or more. Now I need this COVID-19 shit to pass so the track can reopen and we can start making full power passes again.My baby's back!

04-02-2020, 09:16 AM	#10
Juiced1 Account Suspended Drives: 2012 2SS CAMARO 45th Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: St. Charles, IL Posts: 18,663	I missed this point originally but I can't say it enough. When your intake temps are going crazy you most likely have a air bubble or are low on fluid. Without a reservoir it's very easy for either to happen. About half the cars we work on are not filled properly. When we take the supercharger lines off no fluid comes out. Without a reservoir the fill process is difficult. Most dealers miss the mark on filling them.

04-06-2020, 04:52 PM	#13
Juiced1 Account Suspended Drives: 2012 2SS CAMARO 45th Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: St. Charles, IL Posts: 18,663	Most don't know how to bleed the system properly. Even dealers, time and time again do not add fluid after they service the supercharger or they don't do it properly. With a reservoir it's almost a non issue. Most will allow you to add ice to some degree but I'll take the extra coolant capacity, constant head pressure on the pump and easy fill up/level check any day.

04-26-2020, 07:55 PM	#14
leemozoid Drives: '15 Silverado LTZ & '13 ZL1 ragtop Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Edmond, Oklahoma Posts: 313 View My Garage	We are back, bad and as good as ever. Ted makes a great point however it's moot since the tank is installed and operating. It is also insulated to minimize the the additional heating from underhood temps. I have also installed a Dashlogic so I can know exactly what's going on. IAT2s are now rarely above IAT1s unless under boost and once back under normal operation they return to the same range quickly. We still haven't had her on the dyno but I can certainly tell from driving her that she has ALL the power. What are the thoughts on interchillers? Refrigerated air to drive IAT2s below ambient?