Car clicking won't start - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

hansolo79 · 04-29-2017, 09:55 PM

So I was driving home from work one sunny afternoon and in mid drive, my car cut off. Luckily I was able to pull over to the side and get towed. I let it sit for a night and the next morning it started. Stayed on for 5 minutes and died again. Tried to start it and all I get is a clicking sound. Had AutoZone check the battery and it's good. Checked all fuses and they are good. Any ideas? I posted a video of the noise Thanks for any help.

https://youtu.be/XyQqvSPitY0

PostNup · 04-29-2017, 11:44 PM

It's the battery. Happens to us in AZ all the time. Starts fine to go to work in the morning... you pull into a convienence store on the way to work to get some caffeine and come out to click click click.

Happened to me 4 times in 17 years. Not like back east when they gave you a warming before they died... slow crank when cold, just poof and dead.

Hth

hansolo79 · 04-30-2017, 12:01 AM

I swapped the battery and still got a tick tick tick.

PostNup · 04-30-2017, 01:20 AM

Ah, didn't know that. Sorry Bro, I got nothing else but maybe starter.

STUNNAH · 04-30-2017, 04:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hansolo79

I swapped the battery and still got a tick tick tick.

New or used battery???

hansolo79 · 04-30-2017, 07:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by STUNNAH

New or used battery???

Swapped for new battery.

Hulk · 04-30-2017, 08:56 AM

Alternator maybe? Do you have the voltage gage? Should be about 12volt when off and go to about 14 when running.

dentnshell · 04-30-2017, 10:11 AM

Could be starter, but most likely simply not enough juice getting to the starter. Since the Battery is in the trunk, the battery has to be good. You replaced with a new one so that "should" alleviate that problem. Also your battery tested good so again - odds are the battery is good. Check your connections and especially the ground.

Will the car start with a jump start - connected at the post under the hood? From that contact there i a much shorter distance to the starter... Also you would be using the frame as a ground and that the wires in the trunk.

hansolo79 · 04-30-2017, 11:46 AM

After letting it sit overnight, it started this morning with a jump. It ran for about 5 minutes then died again with the cables connected. Jumped it again and did the same thing. Now it's just ticking again. Won't start with a jump.

dentnshell · 04-30-2017, 01:18 PM

Sounds like the alternator is not charging... the car runs until the battery is dead.

Please check your wires Both the positive and the ground... The alternator cannot charge the battery if the battery is not properly connected.

Charge the battery.
Then

you can use a set a jumper cable to make a temporary wire replacement.
There are essentially only two paths to check - The negative side and the positive side.

I would first check the ground:

Clamp one side of the jumper cable to the battery ground... and the other end to the frame.
Will the car start?

If so chances are it is a bad ground.

If not.

do the same with the positive side. Clamp one end on the positive side of the battery, the other end of the SAME cable to the positive post under the hood. This will effectively provide a second path for power to get to the front of the car (in case the factory path is bad.)

Check the results.

hansolo79 · 04-30-2017, 03:23 PM

Tried your suggestion. Just continues to click. No start. Maybe check the starter? Isn't like in a hard to get place.

KerseySS · 04-30-2017, 04:17 PM

I had a bmw that the starter went out on. It would start after I hit the starter with a hammer or something. Try hitting your starter and see if it will crank.

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

dentnshell · 04-30-2017, 05:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hansolo79

Tried your suggestion. Just continues to click. No start. Maybe check the starter? Isn't like in a hard to get place.

Is that with a charged battery? If you ran it until it died... There would be no juice left in the battery.

last thing is to check the engine ground... There should be a strap from the engine block to the frame... The starter uses this for power... check those connections.... again you can create your own with jumper cables. Simply ground the engine to the frame using the cables.

hansolo79 · 04-30-2017, 06:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dentnshell

Is that with a charged battery? If you ran it until it died... There would be no juice left in the battery.

last thing is to check the engine ground... There should be a strap from the engine block to the frame... The starter uses this for power... check those connections.... again you can create your own with jumper cables. Simply ground the engine to the frame using the cables.

Yes, I checked the charge with my voltage checker.

04-29-2017, 09:55 PM	#1
hansolo79 Drives: 2012 Camaro 2LS Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Shreveport, LA Posts: 14	Car clicking won't start So I was driving home from work one sunny afternoon and in mid drive, my car cut off. Luckily I was able to pull over to the side and get towed. I let it sit for a night and the next morning it started. Stayed on for 5 minutes and died again. Tried to start it and all I get is a clicking sound. Had AutoZone check the battery and it's good. Checked all fuses and they are good. Any ideas? I posted a video of the noise Thanks for any help. https://youtu.be/XyQqvSPitY0

04-29-2017, 11:44 PM	#2
PostNup CAR-DASHIAN Drives: 2015 Ashen Gray Metallic 2SS/RS L99 Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Gilbert, AZ Posts: 540	It's the battery. Happens to us in AZ all the time. Starts fine to go to work in the morning... you pull into a convienence store on the way to work to get some caffeine and come out to click click click. Happened to me 4 times in 17 years. Not like back east when they gave you a warming before they died... slow crank when cold, just poof and dead. Hth __________________ PERFORMANCE: ColdAirInductions CAI, ADM Race Scoop, Cordes Performance Racing Ported TB/IM/Custom VVT Cam, WFO Milled Heads, Stainless Power 1 7/8" LT/3" HFCs, JBA 3" Comp. Cat-Back, Taylor 10.4mm Plug Wires, Tim King Performance Stage 3 6L80, Circle D Billet 3600 Stall, Nic D ECM/TCM Tune, - 458rwhp/413rwtq (prior to PIM), Forgestar F14 (F)18" / (R)17" Rims. SUSPENSION: Z/28 Rear UCA Bushings, Carlyle Racing LCA/TA, BMR Adj. Toe Rods/Xtreme Anti-Roll Bar, Justice Pete Castor Locks/Radius Rod Inserts, Pegasus Billet Rear Cradle Bushings, Mickey Thompson Street SS II 305/45/17 tires.

04-30-2017, 01:20 AM	#4
PostNup CAR-DASHIAN Drives: 2015 Ashen Gray Metallic 2SS/RS L99 Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Gilbert, AZ Posts: 540	Ah, didn't know that. Sorry Bro, I got nothing else but maybe starter. __________________ PERFORMANCE: ColdAirInductions CAI, ADM Race Scoop, Cordes Performance Racing Ported TB/IM/Custom VVT Cam, WFO Milled Heads, Stainless Power 1 7/8" LT/3" HFCs, JBA 3" Comp. Cat-Back, Taylor 10.4mm Plug Wires, Tim King Performance Stage 3 6L80, Circle D Billet 3600 Stall, Nic D ECM/TCM Tune, - 458rwhp/413rwtq (prior to PIM), Forgestar F14 (F)18" / (R)17" Rims. SUSPENSION: Z/28 Rear UCA Bushings, Carlyle Racing LCA/TA, BMR Adj. Toe Rods/Xtreme Anti-Roll Bar, Justice Pete Castor Locks/Radius Rod Inserts, Pegasus Billet Rear Cradle Bushings, Mickey Thompson Street SS II 305/45/17 tires.

04-30-2017, 08:56 AM	#7
Hulk Drives: 2011 Synenergy Green 2SS/RS Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Pueblo, Co Posts: 557	Alternator maybe? Do you have the voltage gage? Should be about 12volt when off and go to about 14 when running. __________________ 2011 Synenergy Green 2SS/RS Automatic.

04-30-2017, 10:11 AM	#8
dentnshell Drives: Black 2014 2SS Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Oologah, OK Posts: 454 View My Garage	Could be starter, but most likely simply not enough juice getting to the starter. Since the Battery is in the trunk, the battery has to be good. You replaced with a new one so that "should" alleviate that problem. Also your battery tested good so again - odds are the battery is good. Check your connections and especially the ground. Will the car start with a jump start - connected at the post under the hood? From that contact there i a much shorter distance to the starter... Also you would be using the frame as a ground and that the wires in the trunk. __________________ 2014 L99 2SS. 595HP/571ft-lbs Mods: LSA Conversion 2.5" Upper Pulley, 65# injectors, GPI SS1 Cam, SP Long Tubes, ADM Race Scoop & CAI, NPP exhaust (DIY control), BMR 1" lowering springs, ZL1 Rear Differential / Axles, CF Side Strip / Hood Spear, Tint - Windows / Tails / Sidemarkers, Splash Guards, ADM Boost Gauge, ABL Dashkit, '68 Script Badges, ACS T4 Splitter, ZL1 Rockers from Gary's, Z28 Spoiler, Carbon Fiber Hood Vent, Summer - MRR FS01 Satin Black (10" Front 11" Rear) Winter, pictured-Drag DR 64's Satin Black (9" Front-10" Rear.)

04-30-2017, 12:01 AM	#3
hansolo79 Drives: 2012 Camaro 2LS Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Shreveport, LA Posts: 14	I swapped the battery and still got a tick tick tick.

04-30-2017, 11:46 AM	#9
hansolo79 Drives: 2012 Camaro 2LS Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Shreveport, LA Posts: 14	After letting it sit overnight, it started this morning with a jump. It ran for about 5 minutes then died again with the cables connected. Jumped it again and did the same thing. Now it's just ticking again. Won't start with a jump.

04-30-2017, 01:18 PM	#10
dentnshell Drives: Black 2014 2SS Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Oologah, OK Posts: 454 View My Garage	Sounds like the alternator is not charging... the car runs until the battery is dead. Please check your wires Both the positive and the ground... The alternator cannot charge the battery if the battery is not properly connected. Charge the battery. Then you can use a set a jumper cable to make a temporary wire replacement. There are essentially only two paths to check - The negative side and the positive side. I would first check the ground: Clamp one side of the jumper cable to the battery ground... and the other end to the frame. Will the car start? If so chances are it is a bad ground. If not. do the same with the positive side. Clamp one end on the positive side of the battery, the other end of the SAME cable to the positive post under the hood. This will effectively provide a second path for power to get to the front of the car (in case the factory path is bad.) Check the results. __________________ 2014 L99 2SS. 595HP/571ft-lbs Mods: LSA Conversion 2.5" Upper Pulley, 65# injectors, GPI SS1 Cam, SP Long Tubes, ADM Race Scoop & CAI, NPP exhaust (DIY control), BMR 1" lowering springs, ZL1 Rear Differential / Axles, CF Side Strip / Hood Spear, Tint - Windows / Tails / Sidemarkers, Splash Guards, ADM Boost Gauge, ABL Dashkit, '68 Script Badges, ACS T4 Splitter, ZL1 Rockers from Gary's, Z28 Spoiler, Carbon Fiber Hood Vent, Summer - MRR FS01 Satin Black (10" Front 11" Rear) Winter, pictured-Drag DR 64's Satin Black (9" Front-10" Rear.)

04-30-2017, 03:23 PM	#11
hansolo79 Drives: 2012 Camaro 2LS Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Shreveport, LA Posts: 14	Tried your suggestion. Just continues to click. No start. Maybe check the starter? Isn't like in a hard to get place.

04-30-2017, 04:17 PM	#12
KerseySS Joey Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SS/RS L99 Cyber Grey Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: GA Posts: 113	I had a bmw that the starter went out on. It would start after I hit the starter with a hammer or something. Try hitting your starter and see if it will crank. Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk __________________ 2011 Cyber Grey L99 SS/RS- 3.91 Gear MRR 228 Wheels-Hurst shifter/base plate LT Headers no CATS-Magnaflow 16582 Axle Back RoboFab intake-Dyno Steve tune ZL1 Rocker Panels-SLP Splitter Lowered on Phastek springs Pray Performance ported TB