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Old 10-03-2018, 02:36 PM   #15
hrpiii
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Originally Posted by Beer Run View Post
So I'm locked out of my 2010 RS. This isn't the typical "locked out" situation tho. Was on vacation for 2 weeks and the battery died. So the key fob won't open the door. The other problem is that the door key won't open the door because the mechanism in the door handle is faulty and as you know there arent any other "key" locks on the car.



any ideas?
Yeah, fix the mechanism issue for the key you have in your hand if the battery is dead. Why try and break more stuff with a slim jim?
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Old 10-03-2018, 08:14 PM   #16
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I agree..jack the car up.. securely use jack stands..get under it or take the left wheel off and inner fender..hook up some jumper cables or Battery tender just enough to get power to unlock your door.

The positive cable on the starter might be the easiest thing to reach with a wire and small alligator clip.
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Old 10-03-2018, 08:21 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by marklsx View Post
The positive cable on the starter might be the easiest thing to reach with a wire and small alligator clip.
Excellent idea!
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Old 10-03-2018, 08:36 PM   #18
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I got it open!!!! What a relief.

I figured the slim jim would be the easiest solution but I don't have one so I looked through the grill and I could see the cable and the latch. The holes in the grill are decently large, took a little monkeying around but I managed to get my hand through the hole.. ouch!! Anyone with small enough hands could slip right in there tho. So anyway.. the plastic sleeve of the cable has a snap-in type of end on it that holds it to the latch bracket/housing. All I did was use a small flathead screwdriver to pop it out of the latch housing and it actually popped out fairly easily. Once the cable was loose a little yank on it opened the hood right up. Not too difficult really.

thanx for all the replys and advice
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Old 10-03-2018, 08:45 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by marklsx View Post
The positive cable on the starter might be the easiest thing to reach with a wire and small alligator clip.

Had I not been able to get in through the hood this would have been the very next best idea. Briliant actually. Can't believe I didnt think of that!!
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Old 10-04-2018, 01:19 PM   #20
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A tow company came and the chick had a machine that pinched the door lock stick thing and pulled it up and unlocked the car
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Old 10-04-2018, 04:45 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by marklsx View Post
The positive cable on the starter might be the easiest thing to reach with a wire and small alligator clip.
But wouldn't the positive terminal on the starter be a switched 12v? Only present when the ignition key is turned to the 'start' position?
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Old 10-04-2018, 07:03 PM   #22
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But wouldn't the positive terminal on the starter be a switched 12v? Only present when the ignition key is turned to the 'start' position?
The large positive feed wire to the starter is a direct line from the battery. The solenoid on the starter is the part that gets switched when the igntion is in "crank" mode. The solenoid just makes the connection between the starters positive feed wire and the starter motor itself. Solenoids and relays serve a simial function, they allow you to control a high amp circuit (starter motor) with a low amp circuit (starter solenoid/ fan relays etc) The low amp circuits are much safer to have routed into the drivers compartment and also allow for the switches that opperate the circuit to be rather small. If you were to switch the starter circuit directly, you would need a massive ignition switch that would be capable of several hundred amps. Where as a typical switch for an ignition or fan motor might be 5- 20 amps, occasionally you'll see a 30 amp or so.
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Old 10-17-2018, 12:53 AM   #23
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Break the window?
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Old 10-17-2018, 06:30 AM   #24
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Break the window?
Read the thread? Issue resolved 2 weeks ago, lol.
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Old 10-17-2018, 03:29 PM   #25
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The large positive feed wire to the starter is a direct line from the battery. The solenoid on the starter is the part that gets switched when the igntion is in "crank" mode. The solenoid just makes the connection between the starters positive feed wire and the starter motor itself. Solenoids and relays serve a simial function, they allow you to control a high amp circuit (starter motor) with a low amp circuit (starter solenoid/ fan relays etc) The low amp circuits are much safer to have routed into the drivers compartment and also allow for the switches that opperate the circuit to be rather small. If you were to switch the starter circuit directly, you would need a massive ignition switch that would be capable of several hundred amps. Where as a typical switch for an ignition or fan motor might be 5- 20 amps, occasionally you'll see a 30 amp or so.
I don’t see how the battery can be charged by attaching a battery tender or another battery to the starter, so what exactly would you need to attach to the starter in order to start the car?
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Old 10-17-2018, 04:00 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by camguynj View Post
I don’t see how the battery can be charged by attaching a battery tender or another battery to the starter, so what exactly would you need to attach to the starter in order to start the car?
Assuming that our starters follow the normal GM style of solenoid on the starter (which I'm pretty sure I remember it doing) you should have an always hot terminal that you could hook a battery charger to.
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Old 10-17-2018, 04:03 PM   #27
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I don’t see how the battery can be charged by attaching a battery tender or another battery to the starter, so what exactly would you need to attach to the starter in order to start the car?
The two cables that run from the battery. The positive one hooks straight to the starter, and the negative one hooks to a grounding point (frame/motor, etc.)

You could hook a charger to the positve cable on the starter and it is a direct path to the battery, the other side (ground) you hook to the frame, etc.

Easy. In this particular case you want just enough power to be able to unlock the car so you could get to the jumper points, or to unlock the trunk so you could get to the battery. You would not want to jump start a car like this.
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Old 10-18-2018, 08:38 AM   #28
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The two cables that run from the battery. The positive one hooks straight to the starter, and the negative one hooks to a grounding point (frame/motor, etc.)

You could hook a charger to the positve cable on the starter and it is a direct path to the battery, the other side (ground) you hook to the frame, etc.

Easy. In this particular case you want just enough power to be able to unlock the car so you could get to the jumper points, or to unlock the trunk so you could get to the battery. You would not want to jump start a car like this.
The positive cable does not connect directly from the battery to the starter. It connects to a solenoid on the starter, then a cable from the solenoid connects to the starter. If it was connected directly to the battery, the starter would run constantly. The solenoid acts as a switch/relay. If you connect a large enough cable and charger or battery source directly to the starter, it will spin the starter and attempt to start the engine. If it is a manual and not automatic, it could move the car and kill you if your underneath it. Depends if the car is in gear and how well the e-brake holds. Be certain you are connecting to the correct terminal on the solenoid and that you don't short them together. Use a small amperage source, such as a 2 amp charger. That way it will blow a fuse or not have enough current to spin the starter if connected to the wrong terminal. Make sure your on the large cable to the battery. In addition, some vehicles have the terminals exposed that activate the solenoid. If you jumper to one of the small wires, the solenoid will pick up. And if the battery was not dead, it would attempt to start the engine. Just need to be careful.
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