01-06-2014, 04:42 PM | #1 |
Older Than Dirt
Drives: 2010 & 2013 Camaros Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Aiken, SC
Posts: 4,564
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Sorry if this has been answered- torque specs RR LCA
Looking for torque specs for rear LCAs. (lower shock bolt and both end bolts)
Doing the swap over for the ZL1/1LE bar in the back so that means updating the LCAs on the back of the 2010 to the 2012-up style. With that, does anyone know off hand what torque specs are for the bolts, if any? No biggie if you don't, but thought I'd ask. TIA.
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2010 2SS TE, 1 of 822/2013 Camaro ZL1 vert, 1 of 54
Last edited by el ess A; 01-06-2014 at 05:01 PM. |
01-06-2014, 04:57 PM | #2 |
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FRONT
Lower control arm bushings 37ft/lbs. Then 150 degrees. Lower control arm ball joint 18ft/lbs. Then 120 degrees. REAR Lower control arm inner bushing at adjuster 85ft/lbs. Lower control arm at knuckle assembly 30ft/lbs. Then 120 degrees |
01-06-2014, 05:17 PM | #3 |
Older Than Dirt
Drives: 2010 & 2013 Camaros Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Aiken, SC
Posts: 4,564
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Thanks.
So I'm guessing when you say "then xx degrees" that means it's one of those use once and replace it bolts? Torque to yield?
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2010 2SS TE, 1 of 822/2013 Camaro ZL1 vert, 1 of 54
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01-06-2014, 05:46 PM | #4 |
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I reused the knuckle to lca bolt. I don't think it will be an issue. Haven't heard of people getting new ones when doing suspension work.
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01-06-2014, 05:53 PM | #5 |
Older Than Dirt
Drives: 2010 & 2013 Camaros Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Aiken, SC
Posts: 4,564
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My first time (breaking my cherry) getting underneath the differential of the car. Figure I'll replace the fluid when I do the sway bar swap as well.
Thanks for the help.
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2010 2SS TE, 1 of 822/2013 Camaro ZL1 vert, 1 of 54
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01-06-2014, 06:42 PM | #6 | |
ʇuɐıʌǝp lɐıɔos
Drives: 2011 2SS/RS LS3/M6 Join Date: Feb 2011
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Quote:
REAR Cradle to body - 130 ft/lbs Differential bushings to sub-frame - 60 ft/lbs Calipers to knuckle - 65 ft/lbs Upper strut to body - 43 ft/lbs Lower strut to lower control arm - 60 ft/lbs Sway bar bracket to sub-frame (M8) (2010-11) - 22 ft/lbs Sway bar bracket to sub-frame (M10) (2012+) - 43 ft/lbs Sway bar to lower control arm (OLD) (2010-11) - 36 ft/lbs Sway bar to lower control arm (NEW) (2012+) - 19 ft/lbs-228 in/lbs Upper control arm saddle bolts (4) to sub-frame - 85 ft/lbs Upper control arm rear bolt to bushing - 130 ft/lbs Upper control arm front inner pivot mount - 130 ft/lbs Upper control arm to knuckle - 85 ft/lbs Lower control arm to sub-frame - 85 ft/lbs Lower control arm to knuckle - 85 ft/lbs Trailing arm to sub-frame - 80 ft/lbs Trailing arm to knuckle - 80 ft/lbs Toe rod to sub-frame - 85 ft/lbs Toe rod to knuckle - 103 ft/lbs Wheel bearing to knuckle - 85 ft/lbs FRONT Calipers to knuckle - 104 ft/lbs Lower control arm inner - 85 ft/lbs Lower control arm outer - 85 ft/lbs Radius rod inner - 85 ft/lbs Radius rod outer - 85 ft/lbs Wheel bearing to knuckle - 79 ft/lbs Strut top nut - 52 ft/lbs Strut retaining nut (inside) - 52 ft/lbs Strut to knuckle - 161 ft/lbs Sway bar bracket to sub-frame (M8) (2010-11) - 22 ft/lbs-264 in/lbs Sway bar bracket to subfamily (M10) (2012+) - 43 ft/lbs Sway bar end links both ends (M10) (2010-11) - 36 ft/lbs Sway bar end links at sway bar (M12) (2012+) - 36 ft/lbs Sway bar end links at strut (M12) (2012+) - 52 ft/lbs Tie rod to knuckle - 55 ft/lbs Tie rod inner nut - 55 ft/lbs |
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01-06-2014, 07:24 PM | #7 | |
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Quote:
It looks daunting the 1st time but is easy. Do you have eccentric bolts with more adjustability than stock? Lowered? As far as the diff what fluid will you use? I used mobil1 75w90 and a little bit of friction modifier. |
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01-07-2014, 01:33 PM | #8 | |
Older Than Dirt
Drives: 2010 & 2013 Camaros Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Aiken, SC
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Quote:
I saw a while back where Pedders had some thicker eccentric bolts with more camber adjust, but I'm not going that route. I just want to stiffen up the sway bars and reduce the understeer a little on the street. That's why I'm sticking to GM parts for the upgrade. Going to start with the ZL1 front/rear bar setup with the stock tires/wheels. If I go square by putting on my spare set of rear wheels/tires on the front, I'll put the 1LE bar up there. I do have a slight concern though that if I do replace the LCA, that the car would require a re-alignment. Or if I match mark the eccentric locations before removal, would that suffice? Again, no experience with these IRS setups. I MIGHT go ahead and install this MBRP ProSeries 304 stainless catback I've got laying around as well (still new in the box). Depends on how the LCA replacement goes. I'm not immune at all to working on cars, I've just never got into an IRS setup before. Looks pretty straightforward. As far as the lube, I understand the GM #88900401 is GL-5 rated as well as the Mobil 1 LS 75W-90. Mobil 1 is 11 bucks at Advance Auto and GM list price on their grape oil is over $27 list, $20.65 my cost locally. The additive is relatively cheap, I can get that for $9.75 per bottle at the dealer. So I can spend $21 or $30 depending on who's oil I use. Probably just go with the grape GM stuff because that way GM can't complain about the "wrong" oil if there's an issue with the differential, and I got to swing by the GM dealer for the limited slip additive anyway.
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2010 2SS TE, 1 of 822/2013 Camaro ZL1 vert, 1 of 54
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01-07-2014, 01:35 PM | #9 |
Older Than Dirt
Drives: 2010 & 2013 Camaros Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Aiken, SC
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Great info!! Thanks a ton!
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2010 2SS TE, 1 of 822/2013 Camaro ZL1 vert, 1 of 54
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01-07-2014, 07:26 PM | #10 |
Drives: 2016 2SS coupe 2015 3LT Stingray Join Date: Aug 2012
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I used redline without friction modifier and so far so good no noise or problems
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Ported intake manifold and throttle body kooks 2" headers no cats
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