650 to the wheels broke an axle

[matar123]

Broke an axle last night dropped the clutch spun shifted to second and boom it broke I’m surprised the stock axles lasted as long as they did. My question is. Is there any chance that the rear end was damaged from this? I jacked the car up and the wheel with a good axle spins freely so I think I’m okay.

Thanks for the help in advance and does anyone have some aftermarket axles for a good deal?

[christianchevell]

A good drain and refill/inspection of the rear gears would be in order with the anti-slip additive if stock gear set and such..... Also a set of BMR trailing arms and toes also with their poly bushings and stiffness to absorb things related to wheel hop that usually is the cause of thrashed axles..... Its the catching of traction from lack of traction over and over that breaks the stock axles usually. I would recommend upgrading to zl1 axles if not doing more for the stock set up suspension like BMR toes trailing arms and say eventually a LPW pumpkin cover...to stiffen the pumpkin even....and learn to feather it a little more the stock axles are rated more into 450 rwhp area..... And avoid a hard launch with sticky tires...like stay stock tires and more in the 3500 range unless you want to burn rubber and then you have to limit wheel hop....

[matar123]

Originally Posted by christianchevell

A good drain and refill/inspection of the rear gears would be in order with the anti-slip additive if stock gear set and such..... Also a set of BMR trailing arms and toes also with their poly bushings and stiffness to absorb things related to wheel hop that usually is the cause of thrashed axles..... Its the catching of traction from lack of traction over and over that breaks the stock axles usually. I would recommend upgrading to zl1 axles if not doing more for the stock set up suspension like BMR toes trailing arms and say eventually a LPW pumpkin cover...to stiffen the pumpkin even....and learn to feather it a little more the stock axles are rated more into 450 rwhp area..... And avoid a hard launch with sticky tires...like stay stock tires and more in the 3500 range unless you want to burn rubber and then you have to limit wheel hop....

I actually do have bmr trailing arms and I’m planing on eventually getting the toe rods LCA’s and some bushings and I’m going to be upgrading the axles this time to DSS 1000Hp so that I don’t have to worry about that any more. Thanks for the response.

[matar123]

I’m gonna be installing the new axles myself anyone have some tips?

[Russell James]

Originally Posted by matar123

I’m gonna be installing the new axles myself anyone have some tips?

With aftermarket axles, be very careful in handling them out of the car. Keep them straight. Many aftermarket ones if they flex too far, the joints pop apart. Then you'll me messing around looking for new band clamps and half a day trying to figure out how they go back together. Been there done that. Went to install a set once and they were both bound up. Both axles had cv joints that had popped apart in shipping.

[matar123]

Does anyone know if stock axle nuts will fit on the DSS axles?

[SSE 4 2SS]

If I remember correctly, they come with new axle nuts...

My memory isn’t the best but I believe that’s the case... call them and ask... if nothing else they will probably toss a pair in...

I’m on DSS axle set number 4... (I have three useable sets for race events) never an issue... 1400 hp rated axles... I’ll just say I abuse them... severely... love em...

[hammdo]

DSS comes with their own reusable axle nuts...

Torqued to 199 ft lbs last time I did mine ;o)

-Don

[matar123]

Originally Posted by hammdo

DSS comes with their own reusable axle nuts...

Torqued to 199 ft lbs last time I did mine ;o)

-Don

I’m buying the axles used with nuts but I thought that they were only one time use are you sure they are reusable?

[matar123]

Here’s another question the axle broke at the shaft that goes into the diff is it going to be difficult to get it out?

[mmaattppllaayy]

Originally Posted by matar123

Here’s another question the axle broke at the shaft that goes into the diff is it going to be difficult to get it out?

Nope the inner part of the cv is still attached which is what you pry against to get the shaft out of the diff. Probably easier for you get out since it’s in 2 pcs.

[h018871]

Originally Posted by christianchevell

A good drain and refill/inspection of the rear gears would be in order with the anti-slip additive if stock gear set and such..... Also a set of BMR trailing arms and toes also with their poly bushings and stiffness to absorb things related to wheel hop that usually is the cause of thrashed axles..... Its the catching of traction from lack of traction over and over that breaks the stock axles usually. I would recommend upgrading to zl1 axles if not doing more for the stock set up suspension like BMR toes trailing arms and say eventually a LPW pumpkin cover...to stiffen the pumpkin even....and learn to feather it a little more the stock axles are rated more into 450 rwhp area..... And avoid a hard launch with sticky tires...like stay stock tires and more in the 3500 range unless you want to burn rubber and then you have to limit wheel hop....

Something to clarify here: the ZL1 axles don’t work with an SS differential

[Js2fst]

I am done with the 1400 hp dss half shafts and driveshafts. Beside sending miss matched ones. Stock ones seem stronger and I am looking at gforce ones.