Snapped Balancer bolt off in Crank...what now?

[1sikRS]

Best of luck to u sir please keep us updated

[maxdmax]

Here is a link to 2 tools to install the new balancer when you get things worked out.
Best of luck

Works on LS7 as well. it is longer than the LS3 specific installer.
http://www.coloradospeed.com/hawk-ls...7-p-18291.html

Or this one does many different makes of cars.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/po...1100/overview/

[67motorcat]

Good Luck Man.

The tool listed above from Summit works very well and the price won't break the bank.

A must have for anyone pulling a Balancer

[PMJ]

Thanks! I just bought the one from Summit, with hopes i'll be using it sooner than later... Hope to get the drill bit on Friday. Will let you know how it goes.

[HtownSS]

So the one from Summit will work on Ls motors? LS3 in particular?

[PMJ]

Well, I think my original post was accurate...I was screwed.

So i received my recover bit and it drilled through the ARP bolt like butter, but the hole was only 1/4 inch. Then talking w/my Dad, he had a set of carbide diamond head bits that were larger and also able to cut right through the ARP bolt (made me feel like a wasted $100 on the rescue bit). So i had a large hole down the middle of the bolt. (Step 1)

Next, I found some kroil lubricant online (which was in an article I found on how to remove a snapped balancer bolt from the crank). I filled up behind the bolt w/the kroil. I removed the oil pump so I could head the crank until the kroil started to boil (i learned the hard way to remove the timing chain tensioner - i had a foil heat shield for the heat gun, but slightly melted the chain tensioner anyway...oops - i removed it after the first time).

Theoretically the crank is supposed to expand while the steam from the kroil seeps into the treads and lubricates the snapped bolt.

After it started to cool, i put the largest easy out i could find into the hole, got a good grip and used an impact air gun to try to turn it. I didn't really expect it to turn, but was hoping the impact might help get the kroil to seep in and who knows, maybe i'd get lucky.

I repeated this numerous times. In the end, I heated it up one last time, but the 1/2" ratchet on the ez out and started putting more and more torque on it. Added the cheater bar, and snapped the ez out. I pretty much expected that to happen. Not sure what else i could have tried. if i really wanted to, i'm sure i could get the ezout out, but don't really see the point. It appears the bolt has become one with the crank.

I could drill out the entire bolt, but that would result in even more thread damage than i already have. I just don't think i would trust re-tapping the crank.

So time to pull the engine, replace the crank :(, and while i'm at it...replace the pistons and rods w/forged internals . I expected to get many more years out of my bottom end, and this is not the way i expected it to go, but it happened...so i guess its time to go all in.

If anyone can point me to a DIY on pulling your motor...stripping the block...etc., i would really appreciate it.

I really thought i had a shot at salvaging it, but i guess now the question is Wiseco or Mahle or other...


.

[Moreno1]

Originally Posted by PMJ

Well, I think my original post was accurate...I was screwed.

So i received my recover bit and it drilled through the ARP bolt like butter, but the hole was only 1/4 inch. Then talking w/my Dad, he had a set of carbide diamond head bits that were larger and also able to cut right through the ARP bolt (made me feel like a wasted $100 on the rescue bit). So i had a large hole down the middle of the bolt. (Step 1)

Next, I found some kroil lubricant online (which was in an article I found on how to remove a snapped balancer bolt from the crank). I filled up behind the bolt w/the kroil. I removed the oil pump so I could head the crank until the kroil started to boil (i learned the hard way to remove the timing chain tensioner - i had a foil heat shield for the heat gun, but slightly melted the chain tensioner anyway...oops - i removed it after the first time).

Theoretically the crank is supposed to expand while the steam from the kroil seeps into the treads and lubricates the snapped bolt.

After it started to cool, i put the largest easy out i could find into the hole, got a good grip and used an impact air gun to try to turn it. I didn't really expect it to turn, but was hoping the impact might help get the kroil to seep in and who knows, maybe i'd get lucky.

I repeated this numerous times. In the end, I heated it up one last time, but the 1/2" ratchet on the ez out and started putting more and more torque on it. Added the cheater bar, and snapped the ez out. I pretty much expected that to happen. Not sure what else i could have tried. if i really wanted to, i'm sure i could get the ezout out, but don't really see the point. It appears the bolt has become one with the crank.

I could drill out the entire bolt, but that would result in even more thread damage than i already have. I just don't think i would trust re-tapping the crank.

So time to pull the engine, replace the crank :(, and while i'm at it...replace the pistons and rods w/forged internals . I expected to get many more years out of my bottom end, and this is not the way i expected it to go, but it happened...so i guess its time to go all in.

If anyone can point me to a DIY on pulling your motor...stripping the block...etc., i would really appreciate it.

I really thought i had a shot at salvaging it, but i guess now the question is Wiseco or Mahle or other...


.

Man I was hoping that you'd have better luck. Sorry to hear that. I have my stock crank rods and pistons along with brand new ARP rod bolts in the package. If you just want to rebuild for now. Say the word and there yours. I also have a ew ARP crank bolt....just saying.

[PMJ]

Originally Posted by Nathan Moreno

Man I was hoping that you'd have better luck. Sorry to hear that. I have my stock crank rods and pistons along with brand new ARP rod bolts in the package. If you just want to rebuild for now. Say the word and there yours. I also have a ew ARP crank bolt....just saying.

Hi Nathan, that is really tempting! I'll PM you...

[litle88]

Nathan your a top notch member!!!

I was hoping for a better outcome, but like I say if you gotta go in might as well upgrade while your in there.

[maxdmax]

Originally Posted by PMJ

Well, I think my original post was accurate...I was screwed.

So i received my recover bit and it drilled through the ARP bolt like butter, but the hole was only 1/4 inch. Then talking w/my Dad, he had a set of carbide diamond head bits that were larger and also able to cut right through the ARP bolt (made me feel like a wasted $100 on the rescue bit). So i had a large hole down the middle of the bolt. (Step 1)

Next, I found some kroil lubricant online (which was in an article I found on how to remove a snapped balancer bolt from the crank). I filled up behind the bolt w/the kroil. I removed the oil pump so I could head the crank until the kroil started to boil (i learned the hard way to remove the timing chain tensioner - i had a foil heat shield for the heat gun, but slightly melted the chain tensioner anyway...oops - i removed it after the first time).

Theoretically the crank is supposed to expand while the steam from the kroil seeps into the treads and lubricates the snapped bolt.

After it started to cool, i put the largest easy out i could find into the hole, got a good grip and used an impact air gun to try to turn it. I didn't really expect it to turn, but was hoping the impact might help get the kroil to seep in and who knows, maybe i'd get lucky.

I repeated this numerous times. In the end, I heated it up one last time, but the 1/2" ratchet on the ez out and started putting more and more torque on it. Added the cheater bar, and snapped the ez out. I pretty much expected that to happen. Not sure what else i could have tried. if i really wanted to, i'm sure i could get the ezout out, but don't really see the point. It appears the bolt has become one with the crank.

I could drill out the entire bolt, but that would result in even more thread damage than i already have. I just don't think i would trust re-tapping the crank.

So time to pull the engine, replace the crank :(, and while i'm at it...replace the pistons and rods w/forged internals . I expected to get many more years out of my bottom end, and this is not the way i expected it to go, but it happened...so i guess its time to go all in.

If anyone can point me to a DIY on pulling your motor...stripping the block...etc., i would really appreciate it.

I really thought i had a shot at salvaging it, but i guess now the question is Wiseco or Mahle or other...


.

I was afraid this would be the outcome, a bolt seizing up on the way out is almost always a big problem. On the timing chain tensioner you do not want to use the stock LS3 tensioner anyway they have issues with the pin coming out. On pulling the engine it is pretty straight forward, we pulled the trans and just disconnected everything and it comes out without any issues. Leave the AC pump, power steering pump, alternator and the starter in the car. The only special tool needed is to disconnect the fuel line. Take the fans out to give yourself more room. If you have any specific questions let me know. Best of luck!

[Unreal]

Tons of good pistons. I'm running livernois pistons made by Ross, but Diamond, Mahle, Wiesco are all good.

[Firefighter]

Damn... I was hoping this would turn out better. Sorry bro. Time for a stroker motor?

[ADM PERFORMANCE]

I have several cranks in stock as well.I even have a forged ctsv crank that has a key slot in it from the factory.Only problem is that it has 8 bolt instead of 6.

Would at a good be willing to sell.

Andy

[IMJ]

Originally Posted by 2SS45th

Yep drill it out, I've had bolts get stuck in the turbo housing on my Subaru, just have to drill it out. It's a patience required process, so take your time and you should be ok. Line it up really well though, that'll be key.

NM, just saw your post above....