HPDE mods

[ApexedSS]

Originally Posted by jessrayo

I like the Porterfields, They were recommended to me when I was tracking a CTS-V. If the temp is just right they squeak.. Most of the time I don't notice. They are awesome track pads and work at any temp. I like the idea that my brakes work just as well on the street as they do on the track. Never fade...ever.

Which porterfeild model?

Are they ok for street use? What's the sound like at normal street temps?

[jessrayo]

Originally Posted by ApexedSS

Which porterfeild model?

Are they ok for street use? What's the sound like at normal street temps?

R-4. They have the best temp range of any pad I have used. I have been using nothing but porterfield for so long that I don't hardly notice it. Every once and a while if the temp is about 60 and if you put real light pedal pressure on them they squeak quite a bit. If I notice this I just coast and then brake harder where I actually need to stop. They are silent when warm and when you use moderate to heavy pedal pressure.

[ApexedSS]

Originally Posted by jessrayo

R-4. They have the best temp range of any pad I have used. I have been using nothing but porterfield for so long that I don't hardly notice it. Every once and a while if the temp is about 60 and if you put real light pedal pressure on them they squeak quite a bit. If I notice this I just coast and then brake harder where I actually need to stop. They are silent when warm and when you use moderate to heavy pedal pressure.

Ohh man really?? Wow I have a 72 240z that I am getting back into track shape and I put R4 on it. Man were they loud on the street with light pressure or cold as you said. Got flipped off 3 times in 15 minutes haha. I couldn't handle it and went with the R4S.

Anyone hear anything about EBC yellow?

[jessrayo]

Originally Posted by ApexedSS

Ohh man really?? Wow I have a 72 240z that I am getting back into track shape and I put R4 on it. Man were they loud on the street with light pressure or cold as you said. Got flipped off 3 times in 15 minutes haha. I couldn't handle it and went with the R4S.

Anyone hear anything about EBC yellow?

I have never been flipped off. I suspect that as light as the 240 is you really would have to push it to get the pads warm, my 4300+ pound ZL1 seems to warm them pretty quick. They are definitely not a silent brake pad though. Maybe that is why everyone stares at my car, I thought it was because it looked cool....lol.

[L99CAMA2011]

You may not want to do this but there is a huge difference between my 19" wheel setup and the 20" wheels, even over TSW nurbs in 20" size. My 19x10.5" wheels weighs around 56lbs each and the car stops very very good at the extreme with HP+ pads, Goodrich SS lines and Motul 600.

[Avalnch]

Track pads, stainless hoses and DOT4 fluid are a must, but remember to drive to your's and your car's limits. No need to keep braking late when you start feeling brake fade. Just ease off a couple of laps until your brakes cool down and then charge ahead again. Also no need to drive beyond your abilities and end up off course or worse.

Just be level headed and drive smartly. You can leave off your brakes a lot if you learn the lines.

[Jim968]

Originally Posted by TBone

Oh, Mikey....... I thought I had you taught better.... Hawks, REALLY?!?!?!?!???

Well I hope you buy the track insurance.

T.

PS. If no one can tell yet I am NOT a fan of Hawk pads.

I'm not a fan of the HPS or HP+ pads for track use either. However, you should try Hawk's full race pads. I've been using Hawk's DTC-70 pads on my race car for years with great success. Most of my passes are made under HEAVY braking, and the DTC-70's have never let me down.

[SSSoon]

Originally Posted by blk96gt

What Hawk pads were they? How much seat time did you have when you "wore out" as set of pads? What do you mean by wore out? Were they worn down to the backing plate?

This question wasn't directed at me, but just FYI I roasted (overheated) a set of Hawk DTC-30 pads and warped my rotors as a result, in one day at Summit Point. Pic is on post #371 on the thread: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...294470&page=15

As a caution these days, when I get off the track I do not go to my parking spot, instead I go for a little slow speed drive for 5 minutes around the grounds to let the rotors cool down. If you go right back to the spot and park, the section of the rotor that is inside the caliper will be very hot and potentially get even hotter, while the other area will start to cool. That could lead to warping right there. So 5 minutes is not a big deal for a little extra safety.

[Jim968]

Originally Posted by SSSoon

This question wasn't directed at me, but just FYI I roasted (overheated) a set of Hawk DTC-30 pads and warped my rotors as a result, in one day at Summit Point.

Why did you choose a circle track pad for a road course application? DTC-60 or DTC-70 is what you want for a road course.

[SSSoon]

Originally Posted by Jim968

Why did you choose a circle track pad for a road course application? DTC-60 or DTC-70 is what you want for a road course.

Poor judgment.

They was listed as a step up from the OEM pads, which I had never really had any problems with, so I figured they would be better. Wrong. They were far worse.

[jessrayo]

Originally Posted by Jim968

Why did you choose a circle track pad for a road course application? DTC-60 or DTC-70 is what you want for a road course.

The 60's and 70's have a limited operating range that require a good warm-up. They are not good street pads when it is cold. If you don't want to swap out pads every time you track the car 60's and 70's are iffy. The 30's have a broad temp range and can be used safely for daily driving and have enough range that they will stop well road racing. I used a set of them on my CTS-V. They really seem to operate hot when you push them. If your rotors and fluid can take the heat they work fine for road racing and can be safely driven on the street. Don't you think a circle track racing pad would stop better than a street pad?

[SSSoon]

Originally Posted by ZWA SS

I do have the ability to shift manually. I bought CFD shifter, so my shift buttons are on the stick vs on the back of wheel that is a moving target.
Leaving in auto on the track last year was not pleasant when it downshifts in corners.

Get the big aluminum paddle shifters that you can get for <$100 here somewhere on Camaro5. They are UNBELIEVABLY NICE. No taking hands off the wheel to downshift. Take about 10 minutes to install.

[SSSoon]

Originally Posted by SPCBA

Make sure you get belt off your neck. Adjust mirrors to new seat placement (you dont need to look at your car).

Speaking of belts: Get a CG Lock. $50 and it locks your lap belt in. Really reduces the amount of sliding around in the seat. I loved it (and then got Kirkeys so don't need it on the track anymore, but still drive around town with it).

[Jim968]

Originally Posted by jessrayo

The 60's and 70's have a limited operating range that require a good warm-up. They are not good street pads when it is cold. If you don't want to swap out pads every time you track the car 60's and 70's are iffy.

You are 100% correct. DTC-60 and DTC-70 pads suck on the street. They are a no compromise track pad. My view is if you're spending the time and money to track your car, why compromise on something as important as your brakes? Pads are easy to swap. You can do it in under an hour in the comfort of your garage before you leave for the track, and swap back to OEM when you return. Not much effort for the best of both worlds.