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Old 12-24-2012, 12:32 PM   #15
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1 7/8 headers should give you little more low end power over 2 inch headers. personally i would never run 2 inch headers with cam only setup.
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Old 12-24-2012, 12:45 PM   #16
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You don't want to do the lifters if you don't have to. That takes a relatively easy install and makes it a PITA. Everything else they're talking about is pretty standard advise around here.

If he is looking for a max build with those goals then the heads gotta come off and replaced with a good set. Might as well replace them.
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Old 12-24-2012, 01:08 PM   #17
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changing lifters, spring, and push rod is alway a good thing to do when changing the cam.
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Old 12-24-2012, 02:47 PM   #18
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If he is looking for a max build with those goals then the heads gotta come off and replaced with a good set. Might as well replace them.
True, but no one said anything about heads

Looks to me like putting in the spring the cam was designed with, like you said, is the most important thing to ward off valve float. If you're not doing heads, then forget about the lifters.
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Old 12-24-2012, 03:02 PM   #19
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No heads or lifters needed.

Just a cam kit that will allow me to still drive in the street and haul ass when i need to.
first is the custom designed Vararam, 2" L/T,QTP cutouts and Janetty tune.
try that then see where i want to be with the cam kit.
from all the responses i've recieved the night fury is pretty popular and driveable too.
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Old 12-24-2012, 03:59 PM   #20
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That's likely what i will go with when i do mine. The lowend power on that cam is pretty unique in what you've got to choose from. I wouldn't pretend like i could come up with a better custom grind for our motor. It's got everything most people are looking for in a cam swap and does it better than your alternatives.
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Old 12-24-2012, 04:51 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcoates18481 View Post
No heads or lifters needed.

Just a cam kit that will allow me to still drive in the street and haul ass when i need to.
first is the custom designed Vararam, 2" L/T,QTP cutouts and Janetty tune.
try that then see where i want to be with the cam kit.
from all the responses i've recieved the night fury is pretty popular and driveable too.
Your taking your car to Janetty?

No need to get mail order tunes bud, a custom tune on a dyno will be by far your best bet.
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Old 12-25-2012, 05:36 PM   #22
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Your taking your car to Janetty?

No need to get mail order tunes bud, a custom tune on a dyno will be by far your best bet.
My Email Custom tunes are Better than Most Dyno Tunes

Ted.
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Old 12-25-2012, 07:39 PM   #23
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As you know I'm very happy with the night fury cam compared to the big cam I had before. Drivability is alot better and it has a very wide powerband Power all around not just at the top end!

I was able to make 500rwhp with TSP porting my stock heads

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=266594
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Old 12-28-2012, 08:50 AM   #24
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changing lifters, spring, and push rod is alway a good thing to do when changing the cam.
Aftermarket springs, pushrods, and lifters aren't always better than stock.

....And the factory installs them with more precision than any of us can.

You need springs if you want the insurance of a double spring, or if your lift is higher than .570... otherwise, changing a good proven spring with an unknown spring is a slight gamble.

You only need lifters if you are doing a LS3 conversion, does any LS3 guys change springs for insurance reasons? If so, wow... that is alot of extra work. I haven't read about any LS3 lifter failures (only L99).

Pushrods are almost always needed unless the new cam base circle is the same as the old (which I have never seen)... but if this was the case, then I would stay with stock.
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Old 12-28-2012, 11:02 AM   #25
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That's what i was tryin to say about the lifters. Litle88 was just suggesting solid lifters at the same time the heads were replaced... which could make sense. Like you though, i haven't read anything about the ls3 and lifter problems, including high rpm valve float due to hydraulic lifters.
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Old 12-28-2012, 11:16 AM   #26
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Quote:
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That's what i was tryin to say about the lifters. Litle88 was just suggesting solid lifters at the same time the heads were replaced... which could make sense. Like you though, i haven't read anything about the ls3 and lifter problems, including high rpm valve float due to hydraulic lifters.
Solid lifters? I never said that lol

If hrs going to be autoxing and running his car balls out for a mile (which is alot) then I was just saying he might be interested in a linkbar design and not have to worry about the lifter turning in the plastic tray. By removing the tray you also help in the oil flowing back down a Lil quicker as well.
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Old 12-28-2012, 11:29 AM   #27
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Solid lifters? I never said that lol

If hrs going to be autoxing and running his car balls out for a mile (which is alot) then I was just saying he might be interested in a linkbar design and not have to worry about the lifter turning in the plastic tray. By removing the tray you also help in the oil flowing back down a Lil quicker as well.
Hah. I never bothered to look up the lifters you were talking about. I just assumed you were talking about switching to solid lifters. All clear now
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Old 12-30-2012, 12:27 PM   #28
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thanks for your interest in the NightFury cam. It has been one of the most successful and powerful cams for the LS3/L99. Please feel free to give us a call and we can discuss your goals.

changing valve springs are a must, but lifters are not a necessary upgrade.
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