Mobil 1 15W-50 or 20W-50 V2 as recommended by Mobil expert at SEMA - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

TheBracketeer · 11-20-2017, 01:49 PM

Hi everyone,

Just about to give my SC/Forged internals LS3 its first oil change since the rebuild. I ran Joe Gibbs break in oil, now I'm deciding on what to run from here on out.

I had planned on using Mobil 1 15W-50 fully synthetic as per recommendations on the forum, however I got talking to an oil specialist on the Mobil booth at SEMA and he recommended their 20W-50 V2 fully synthetic ... the oil they developed for Harleys.

He said it is less susceptible to breaking down when hot and causing deposits.

His exact words were "There is no other oil in our range that I would recommend for your application more than this one ... it is by far the best oil we make."

It has higher phosphorus and zinc content than the15W-50 (1600 / 1750 for the 20W-50 V2 vs. 1200 / 1300 for the 15W-50)

Just want to know if anyone else has tried it / used it?

Pretty compelling stuff ... Just don't know if I feel confident enough to move away from the tried and tested 15W-50 that everyone else has been using.

Thoughts?

https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us...pecs-guide.pdf

https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/m...motorcycle-oil

dreksnot · 11-20-2017, 02:20 PM

Blah, blah, blah....

Clean oil is the best, IMO. Brand, additives, etc. are marketing ploys. That said, Mobil 1 is good stuff and what GM recommends in the LS3.

As for oil weight - run what the builder says to run.

TheBracketeer · 11-20-2017, 04:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dreksnot

Blah, blah, blah....

Clean oil is the best, IMO. Brand, additives, etc. are marketing ploys. That said, Mobil 1 is good stuff and what GM recommends in the LS3.

As for oil weight - run what the builder says to run.

I totally disagree. There is a big difference between oils ... which is evident in the many independent tests that have been done over the years.

I have personally witnessed examples where vehicles I owned were getting serviced by the dealership with their specified oil. Once they were out of warranty, I started doing work on them and noticed a build up of deposits and sludge. I started servicing them with the oil of my choice, and over time the deposits went away and the engine ran cleaner, with less noise and the oil remained cleaner and maintained viscosity at end of life.

As the Castrol advertisement in Australia says "oils and oils".

FYI, my favourite oil of all time is Penrite ... but I can't buy it here.

http://www.penriteoil.com.au

bayarea408 · 11-20-2017, 04:46 PM

AMS 5W30 Signature series, what my tuner and boosted buddies recommended. It is a superior grade of oil, especially good for super hot applications like boost. Other good options are Valvoline and Lucas synthetic.

I know the age old talk of best oil is a dead horse, but take what info you can. I really leaned on buddies and my tuner to lead me the right way. Non profit testing helps too. I made the switch from using ONLY MOBIL 1 for many years, and can immediately tell you my sunday examinations yield a tougher less degrading oil.

dreksnot · 11-20-2017, 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheBracketeer

I totally disagree. There is a big difference between oils ... which is evident in the many independent tests that have been done over the years.

I have personally witnessed examples where vehicles I owned were getting serviced by the dealership with their specified oil. Once they were out of warranty, I started doing work on them and noticed a build up of deposits and sludge. I started servicing them with the oil of my choice, and over time the deposits went away and the engine ran cleaner, with less noise and the oil remained cleaner and maintained viscosity at end of life.

As the Castrol advertisement in Australia says "oils and oils".

FYI, my favourite oil of all time is Penrite ... but I can't buy it here.

http://www.penriteoil.com.au

Okay... Run what you want, pay what you want. I'll let you know when my boosted and abused SBE motor fails due to "bad" motor oil.

10aSSee D · 11-20-2017, 07:23 PM

Haven’t heard of the 20w-50, I’m still running 15w-50 Mobil1

SharpOldNo7 · 11-20-2017, 09:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 10aSSee D

Haven’t heard of the 20w-50, I’m still running 15w-50 Mobil1

The 20W50 V-Twin is Motorcycle oil. You generally will not find it on the shelf with other oils. It is generally in the Motorcycle section at the parts houses.

TheBracketeer · 11-21-2017, 01:05 PM

I just heard back from Mobil help desk ... I'm sticking with the 15W-50

Simon,

I would have to disagree. The 20W-50 would not be the best choice for a couple of reasons. For one, the friction modifiers have been removed, so that will affect performance. Second, the higher level of ZDDP will not really provide you any additional benefit since you have roller cams. In fact, too much zinc and actually be a detriment to roller cams, making then not function properly. The 15W-50 is generally the best choice for that application (assuming your tolerances will allow it.) I realize it is unlikely that you have a catalytic converter on this application, but in the instance that you do, the Mobil 1 V-Twin would likely cause damage to it due to its drastically higher zinc content.

Personally, I would use the 15W-50.

Thank you for choosing Mobil,
Jake Ackerman
Mobil Help Desk Team Lead

10aSSee D · 11-21-2017, 02:19 PM

There you go.

UNRIVALED SS · 11-21-2017, 02:57 PM

This topic gets kicked around fairly often.
Dreksnot is right.

I run the 15W50 mobile a lot. Pretty good engine builder in Atlanta that puts a dominate engine under the hood of some fast vets at road Atlanta says run it and he built it .

I fill it up with Dominator 15W50 when it’s going to be no holds barred but that’s just because of the addiditive package.

Mobile 15W50 is more than adequate for 99% of the engines in cars owned by people that read this.

If it isn’t clean, it doesn’t matter what it is. That means no going by the “oil life” indicator.

dreksnot · 11-21-2017, 04:22 PM

Yup. Higher power motor situations require more maintenance, and more frequent oil changes. It's cheap insurance to change oil - much cheaper than a motor, eh?

Slowhawk · 11-22-2017, 10:45 AM

There are plenty of good oils out there. We stick with Mobile 1 0w-40 synthetic. Used it for the last 15 years on lsx motors and proven to us it's good. For everything to daily driven to our 7 second turbo cars. 15/50 seems like it might be too thick for cold starting up here when temps are below 30 in the winter.

TheBracketeer · 11-22-2017, 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Slowhawk

There are plenty of good oils out there. We stick with Mobile 1 0w-40 synthetic. Used it for the last 15 years on lsx motors and proven to us it's good. For everything to daily driven to our 7 second turbo cars. 15/50 seems like it might be too thick for cold starting up here when temps are below 30 in the winter.

I'm in Southern California ... no chance of driving it below 60 over here.

Camaro Dude · 11-23-2017, 07:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheBracketeer

Hi everyone,

Just about to give my SC/Forged internals LS3 its first oil change since the rebuild. I ran Joe Gibbs break in oil, now I'm deciding on what to run from here on out.

I had planned on using Mobil 1 15W-50 fully synthetic as per recommendations on the forum, however I got talking to an oil specialist on the Mobil booth at SEMA and he recommended their 20W-50 V2 fully synthetic ... the oil they developed for Harleys.

He said it is less susceptible to breaking down when hot and causing deposits.

His exact words were "There is no other oil in our range that I would recommend for your application more than this one ... it is by far the best oil we make."

It has higher phosphorus and zinc content than the15W-50 (1600 / 1750 for the 20W-50 V2 vs. 1200 / 1300 for the 15W-50)

Just want to know if anyone else has tried it / used it?

Pretty compelling stuff ... Just don't know if I feel confident enough to move away from the tried and tested 15W-50 that everyone else has been using.

Thoughts?

https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us...pecs-guide.pdf

https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/m...motorcycle-oil

Did the "expert" aka Mr.$$$$ ask you what your "application" REALLY is?

Sure a build dictates an oil type, but type of use like, will you be on WOT, for like 10-15 second shots, lap after lap for 20min on a road course, or a good romp on California canyons on a Sunday morning?? Or...

I've seen builds just like yours with oil analysis and a typical walley mart 5w/30 come out clean on a DD.

Would I use that? Nope, but I'm just sayin'

11-20-2017, 01:49 PM	#1
TheBracketeer Drives: 2011 2SS Whipplecharged LS3 Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: San Clemente Posts: 146	Mobil 1 15W-50 or 20W-50 V2 as recommended by Mobil expert at SEMA Hi everyone, Just about to give my SC/Forged internals LS3 its first oil change since the rebuild. I ran Joe Gibbs break in oil, now I'm deciding on what to run from here on out. I had planned on using Mobil 1 15W-50 fully synthetic as per recommendations on the forum, however I got talking to an oil specialist on the Mobil booth at SEMA and he recommended their 20W-50 V2 fully synthetic ... the oil they developed for Harleys. He said it is less susceptible to breaking down when hot and causing deposits. His exact words were "There is no other oil in our range that I would recommend for your application more than this one ... it is by far the best oil we make." It has higher phosphorus and zinc content than the15W-50 (1600 / 1750 for the 20W-50 V2 vs. 1200 / 1300 for the 15W-50) Just want to know if anyone else has tried it / used it? Pretty compelling stuff ... Just don't know if I feel confident enough to move away from the tried and tested 15W-50 that everyone else has been using. Thoughts? https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us...pecs-guide.pdf https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/m...motorcycle-oil

11-20-2017, 02:20 PM	#2
dreksnot Served USN - Atomic Chimp Drives: 13 Camaro LSX434 TT M6, 21 ZLE A10 Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Fort Collins, CO Posts: 1,603 View My Garage	Blah, blah, blah.... Clean oil is the best, IMO. Brand, additives, etc. are marketing ploys. That said, Mobil 1 is good stuff and what GM recommends in the LS3. As for oil weight - run what the builder says to run. __________________ In excess of 1,000WHP LSX434 \| AGP 65/65 TT \| BTR Equalizer Intake \| Trickflow 245cc cathedral \| BTR custom cam \| Cortex EBC \| n2mb WOT \| ID-1700x \| Brisk GR12S \| RPM Lv 7 TR6060 \| AGP's Triple 525LPH Fore Fuel \| Monster LT1-S Triple \| 4.11 DSS Proform 9", CF driveshaft, 1400hp axles \| Hurst Line Lock \| MGW Retro Short Throw w/old skool Hurst T-handle \| ADM solid subframe mounts \| Prothane Motor Mounts \| Revshift Poly Trans insert \| Moreno camber/caster plates

11-20-2017, 07:23 PM	#6
10aSSee D Drives: Silver 2010 SS Camaro Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: TN Posts: 2,562	Haven’t heard of the 20w-50, I’m still running 15w-50 Mobil1 __________________ MODS: ADM built 417, 2.9L Whipple with 3.250 pulley, ADM ported and polished LSA heads,ADM stage3 cam,ADM LSA belt drive system,ADM CAI race scoop, ADM dual fuel pumps, ID 850's, BMR full suspension, Gforce 9 inch kit with 3.5 inch driveshaft, Street Slayer twin carbon clutch, Lingenfelter oil seperator. Tuned by built by ADM Performance, 763rwhp,705rwtq

11-21-2017, 02:19 PM	#9
10aSSee D Drives: Silver 2010 SS Camaro Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: TN Posts: 2,562	There you go. __________________ MODS: ADM built 417, 2.9L Whipple with 3.250 pulley, ADM ported and polished LSA heads,ADM stage3 cam,ADM LSA belt drive system,ADM CAI race scoop, ADM dual fuel pumps, ID 850's, BMR full suspension, Gforce 9 inch kit with 3.5 inch driveshaft, Street Slayer twin carbon clutch, Lingenfelter oil seperator. Tuned by built by ADM Performance, 763rwhp,705rwtq

11-21-2017, 02:57 PM	#10
UNRIVALED SS Drives: 2010 Camaro SS Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: El Paso Posts: 704 View My Garage	15W50 This topic gets kicked around fairly often. Dreksnot is right. I run the 15W50 mobile a lot. Pretty good engine builder in Atlanta that puts a dominate engine under the hood of some fast vets at road Atlanta says run it and he built it . I fill it up with Dominator 15W50 when it’s going to be no holds barred but that’s just because of the addiditive package. Mobile 15W50 is more than adequate for 99% of the engines in cars owned by people that read this. If it isn’t clean, it doesn’t matter what it is. That means no going by the “oil life” indicator.

11-20-2017, 04:46 PM	#4
bayarea408 Drives: T Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: CA Posts: 803	AMS 5W30 Signature series, what my tuner and boosted buddies recommended. It is a superior grade of oil, especially good for super hot applications like boost. Other good options are Valvoline and Lucas synthetic. I know the age old talk of best oil is a dead horse, but take what info you can. I really leaned on buddies and my tuner to lead me the right way. Non profit testing helps too. I made the switch from using ONLY MOBIL 1 for many years, and can immediately tell you my sunday examinations yield a tougher less degrading oil.

11-21-2017, 01:05 PM	#8
TheBracketeer Drives: 2011 2SS Whipplecharged LS3 Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: San Clemente Posts: 146	I just heard back from Mobil help desk ... I'm sticking with the 15W-50 Simon, I would have to disagree. The 20W-50 would not be the best choice for a couple of reasons. For one, the friction modifiers have been removed, so that will affect performance. Second, the higher level of ZDDP will not really provide you any additional benefit since you have roller cams. In fact, too much zinc and actually be a detriment to roller cams, making then not function properly. The 15W-50 is generally the best choice for that application (assuming your tolerances will allow it.) I realize it is unlikely that you have a catalytic converter on this application, but in the instance that you do, the Mobil 1 V-Twin would likely cause damage to it due to its drastically higher zinc content. Personally, I would use the 15W-50. Thank you for choosing Mobil, Jake Ackerman Mobil Help Desk Team Lead

11-21-2017, 04:22 PM	#11
dreksnot Served USN - Atomic Chimp Drives: 13 Camaro LSX434 TT M6, 21 ZLE A10 Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Fort Collins, CO Posts: 1,603 View My Garage	Yup. Higher power motor situations require more maintenance, and more frequent oil changes. It's cheap insurance to change oil - much cheaper than a motor, eh? __________________ In excess of 1,000WHP LSX434 \| AGP 65/65 TT \| BTR Equalizer Intake \| Trickflow 245cc cathedral \| BTR custom cam \| Cortex EBC \| n2mb WOT \| ID-1700x \| Brisk GR12S \| RPM Lv 7 TR6060 \| AGP's Triple 525LPH Fore Fuel \| Monster LT1-S Triple \| 4.11 DSS Proform 9", CF driveshaft, 1400hp axles \| Hurst Line Lock \| MGW Retro Short Throw w/old skool Hurst T-handle \| ADM solid subframe mounts \| Prothane Motor Mounts \| Revshift Poly Trans insert \| Moreno camber/caster plates

11-22-2017, 10:45 AM	#12
Slowhawk Drives: 1999 Trans Am Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Bridgewater,Ma Posts: 2,017	There are plenty of good oils out there. We stick with Mobile 1 0w-40 synthetic. Used it for the last 15 years on lsx motors and proven to us it's good. For everything to daily driven to our 7 second turbo cars. 15/50 seems like it might be too thick for cold starting up here when temps are below 30 in the winter.