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Old 08-26-2016, 07:04 AM   #43
hesster
 
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JP - thanks! PM on the way.
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Old 09-22-2016, 07:35 AM   #44
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Well - the results are in on JP's Z Style Rear Sway Bar. As earlier stated, I had installed BMR's inboard mount Sway, set on the middle hole. By all means, the BMR is not a bad piece at all, and a nice upgrade if you do not have the correct control arms with the outboard mount hole (like the BMR piece below).
I was initially concerned that any rear sway other than a inboard mount would not clear all of the suspension components and wheels in my 2010, specifically my BC-ER reservoirs and DSSHOP Axles.
RESULTS - after finally installing the bar and getting a chance to drive my beast with the new bar, I found that the JP Z Bar is phenomenal! This is one beefy bar to be sure. Installation was easy and less than 2 hours with the car on only 1 jack stand, and I was able to just "fish" it in from one side. It does indeed clear my BC ER's, and everything else. My car has 22's and is lowered, and has a Whipple with 632 HP so blowing off the rear tires is effortless. The car now feels PLANTED, is less twitchy, less clunky, and the ride seems smoother and refined. The cornering is amazing and dead flat, and much less fear of uncontrolled understeer. Worth every cent!


This was the old inboard mount:


Here is the JP Sway:

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Old 10-10-2016, 01:05 PM   #45
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Installed the BMR LCA on driver side and encountered an issue. The end link is 1) touching the spring and 2) is at a bad angle causing it to not fully seat. Did anyone else have any issues like this? Guessing I need to remove bolts and start over.

Also, it says to,grease the grease points...someone please point these out.
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Old 10-10-2016, 01:26 PM   #46
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Are you using BMR endlinks or GM? According to BMR's website you need their endlinks (and apparently toe links too).

http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=p...989&superpro=0
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Old 10-10-2016, 02:04 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KillboyPowerhead View Post
Are you using BMR endlinks or GM? According to BMR's website you need their endlinks (and apparently toe links too).

http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=p...989&superpro=0


This is a factory rear endlinkn with the Z style outboard mount bar.

This the the BMR endlink you need, unless you can find a universal that allows the heads to turn.



Something like this will work great. http://www.ebay.com/itm/BLOX-RACING-...-/161886187403
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Old 10-10-2016, 02:06 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hesster View Post
Well - the results are in on JP's Z Style Rear Sway Bar. As earlier stated, I had installed BMR's inboard mount Sway, set on the middle hole. By all means, the BMR is not a bad piece at all, and a nice upgrade if you do not have the correct control arms with the outboard mount hole (like the BMR piece below).
I was initially concerned that any rear sway other than a inboard mount would not clear all of the suspension components and wheels in my 2010, specifically my BC-ER reservoirs and DSSHOP Axles.
RESULTS - after finally installing the bar and getting a chance to drive my beast with the new bar, I found that the JP Z Bar is phenomenal! This is one beefy bar to be sure. Installation was easy and less than 2 hours with the car on only 1 jack stand, and I was able to just "fish" it in from one side. It does indeed clear my BC ER's, and everything else. My car has 22's and is lowered, and has a Whipple with 632 HP so blowing off the rear tires is effortless. The car now feels PLANTED, is less twitchy, less clunky, and the ride seems smoother and refined. The cornering is amazing and dead flat, and much less fear of uncontrolled understeer. Worth every cent!


This was the old inboard mount:


Here is the JP Sway:



Glad to hear you are enjoying your Camaro more than ever!
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Old 10-10-2016, 03:07 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KillboyPowerhead View Post
Are you using BMR endlinks or GM? According to BMR's website you need their endlinks (and apparently toe links too).

http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=p...989&superpro=0
You're right, I missed the end links. I already have the toe links. Was getting pissed and needed to step away for a lil bit. Got everything worked out except the end links
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Old 10-11-2016, 12:00 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jc615 View Post
Installed the BMR LCA on driver side and encountered an issue. The end link is 1) touching the spring and 2) is at a bad angle causing it to not fully seat. Did anyone else have any issues like this? Guessing I need to remove bolts and start over.

Also, it says to,grease the grease points...someone please point these out.
It looks like your Factory SwayBar has slid over to the one side. Our Bar has Stops to prevent this.

Your LCA's have Zirk Fittings to insert Grease
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Old 10-11-2016, 06:21 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR Sales View Post
It looks like your Factory SwayBar has slid over to the one side. Our Bar has Stops to prevent this.

Your LCA's have Zirk Fittings to insert Grease
Yep it had moved and I found the fittings. Thanks
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Old 10-12-2016, 11:34 AM   #52
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Yep it had moved and I found the fittings. Thanks
If you Bar continues to move, you can get Locking Collars from places like Fastenal
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Old 10-15-2016, 02:04 PM   #53
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Im Completely stuck. Got new endings and as you can see from pics they won't fit. Once I get my tires mounted and wheels back maybe with load it'll all fit. Driver side end link touches spring no matter how much I adjust it. Passenger has room. Looks like the LCA is not,lining up the same on both sides and not sure how to adjust this. Also, bar looked like it moved I. Previous post but double checked and bump stops are in place.

Driver side first two and passenger second two pics




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Old 10-15-2016, 02:36 PM   #54
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I believe the top of your sway bar links should be turned the other way (see pictures a few posts above); this way they will be on the other side of the bar and not touch the springs.

The control arm bolts won't necessarily line up the same on either side. The hole is elongated to allow for camber adjustment, and the bolt is an eccentric bolt which has the shaft offset from the head, allowing the bolt to spin around the oval-shaped hole (moving the control arm in or out to adjust camber).

I believe you just need to twist the top of your links around and you'll be fine, then get an alignment when you're done. Not sure about the sway bar moving side to side, however...
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Old 10-15-2016, 05:17 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KillboyPowerhead View Post
I believe the top of your sway bar links should be turned the other way (see pictures a few posts above); this way they will be on the other side of the bar and not touch the springs.

The control arm bolts won't necessarily line up the same on either side. The hole is elongated to allow for camber adjustment, and the bolt is an eccentric bolt which has the shaft offset from the head, allowing the bolt to spin around the oval-shaped hole (moving the control arm in or out to adjust camber).

I believe you just need to twist the top of your links around and you'll be fine, then get an alignment when you're done. Not sure about the sway bar moving side to side, however...
Sway bar didn't move, just looked like it did in the pics. Thanks for the camber info, I figured that and have been trying to adjust it but will attempt again once it cools down. Last, below is the BMR end link instructions so the end links should be installed correctly

Adjust the end link to the approximate length of the OE end link. Rotate the ends to simulate the OE design then tighten the jam nuts using an 11/16” and 3⁄4” wrench. The lower tie rod on the end link attaches to the inside of the control arm mount (side facing the differential) and the upper tie rod attaches to the outside of the sway bar.
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Old 10-17-2016, 07:59 AM   #56
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You have a factory sway bar with after market sway bar bushings?
Why?
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